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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Which engine/transmission to install?

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Old Jul 17, 2024 | 05:21 AM
  #16  
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charlie g
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Originally Posted by pappacrunch
When I decided to leave the stock 239 and Granny low 4 speed in my 55, I started out with a carbureted 302 and AOD and it just wasn't enough for me. Ended up swapping it out for a 347 Stroker crate motor with 360 hp and 400 ft lbs of torque bolted to the AOD. The AOD still left me feeling like it was mushy as it always wanted to get to second or 3rd gear so I swapped it with a 4R70W controlled by a US Shift controller. The rear end is an 8.8 out of a 2001 Explorer with 3.73 gears and disc brakes. i left the carb world and put a Holley Sniper on it and now I love driving it. Lots of pep at the low end and goes down the freeway at 70 with 2100 RPM. I upgraded the front end to Mustang II with disc brakes when I swapped to the 302. Stopping is important when you can get up to speed quickly. :-). The nice part is it is simple enough that I can work on it if it ever needs it (not that it needs it, ok I can change the fluids).

Now if I hit the lotto, I would do a Coyote on one of the chasis from Fat Fender Garage in AZ.

we've built a few f5 cobras using 347's fueled by the new efi kits and have to agree, they sure make for smooth reliable power,and with TANKS pumping out efi gas tanks it's even simpler
 
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Old Jul 17, 2024 | 04:34 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by charlie g
old timer here with a lot of flathead work under his belt. yet personally i'm with the others, the good old small block ford, 302 or 351, 85 or newer roller cam block, convert the efi to carb later 4 speed trans if you want a auto or a tremec 5 speed if you want stick shift,
if you can afford it blue print engineering sells turn key/dressed crate motors that do have the hp to turn heads yet be very comfortable daily driver motors, in the price range of about $6.700. those motors are built using brand new parts they cast them selfs, https://blueprintengines.com/collect...ucts/bp302ctcd
That is an awesome engine that they sell for $6,700.
It is probably much easier, and maybe even cheaper, to buy a crate engine than buying a used engine and having it rebuilt.

By the time you add the transmission and accessaries you will probably be over what I spent on the F-150 Coyote take out combo. The accessories are probably $1,000 or more.

The days of cheap engines is over. Too bad the modern factory engines are not easier to use.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2024 | 12:46 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 56panelford
I'd go with an AOD instead of a 3 speed transmission, made a world of a difference in mine..
I would agree with the AOD (or even AODE if you like electronics)

Also, the 300cu-in 6 is a pretty good engine to consider too. (it was my second choice after the Y-block!)

If it's a EFI 300, I believe the engine management computer will also control the automatic transmission which could also be an E4OD.

The AOD/AODE transmissions have a final ratio (OD) of 0.67:1 so with the right rear axle ratio you could get pretty low freeway RPM and respective mileage.

 
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Old Jul 20, 2024 | 04:16 PM
  #19  
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On my 1953-55 F-100 builds--I always use 1985 up Mustang engine have ROLLER cams-- convert over to Carb --intake--mechanical fuel pump--rear sump---refresh them up---C-4 or AOD--Mustang II front suspension--Explorer rear 1999-2001--3:55---Disc brakes--TCI leaf spring kit--- I do not know how that would work with F-1 they are lot smaller ---- NOT CHEAP BUY DONE CORRECT AND SAFE-- GOOD LUCK






 
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