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A riddle for Thursday.
1994 F150 XL 5.0
Went out the other morning, truck would crank but would not start. There is at least 1/2 tank of fuel in both tanks.
Checked fuses, fine.
I noticed that when putting ignition to ON position, there was no noise from either front or rear fuel pump, when normally they make noise (when priming?).
I hooked up a jumper wire to the testing plug as if I were going to do a fuel pressure test. Turned key to ON position which should turn on the fuel pump. Nothing from either front or rear.
I just put in a new fuel pump relay this morning in the correct position. Front fuel tank, nothing, crank and no start. Rear fuel tank, this time it cranked a bit and actually started, but ran very rough and would die if I didn't give it a little gas. Similarly, if I gave it more gas, it would also die.
Front fuel pump was making louder than normal noise last week... so could it have been on it's way out? Regardless if it died, shouldn't there be no issues running with rear?
Ok I'm at a loss of what to check next, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Here is the fuel pump wiring diagram. The fuel selector switch and the inertia switch are both parts that rarely fail, but can cause the symptoms you're experiencing. You can temporarily jump the terminals with a paper clip to see if the fuel pumps start running to diagnose the failed part.
The fuel pump ground terminal is near the drivers side head light and that may be a problem too. Make sure the wire isn't 'stretchy' as that indicates a broken wire inside the plastic insulation.
Maybe a loose or corroded ground somewhere in the circuit?
Testing voltage with a load is better than open circuit testing because the load will highlight any low voltage conditions.
Thank you for this info, this is really helpful. I'll look this over.
Separatley and more just out of curiosity, I pulled the PCM out and found that the case is very corroded and rusty. I have not yet opened it up to look for any burnt resistors yet, but will later today. I understand that if there are issues with the PCM that doesn't mean there may not be issues in other areas of the circuit as well.
I'm hoping it's not the fuel tank selector switch as I replaced that about 6 months ago. but I'll check.
thanks again.
Thank you for this info, this is really helpful. I'll look this over.
Separatley and more just out of curiosity, I pulled the PCM out and found that the case is very corroded and rusty. I have not yet opened it up to look for any burnt resistors yet, but will later today. I understand that if there are issues with the PCM that doesn't mean there may not be issues in other areas of the circuit as well.
I'm hoping it's not the fuel tank selector switch as I replaced that about 6 months ago. but I'll check.
thanks again.
Usually, PCM problems cause the fuel pumps to run constantly, and that's not the problem you're experiencing. And you already jumped the fuel pump test connector and got no result, so that removes the PCM from the equation.
Thank you all for comments and help. Prototypemech, thanks for the diagrams... it really helped. Ended up being the fuel tank selector switch apparently went bad. UPDATE:
PCM actually looked fairly clean inside even though really rusty corroded outside. I reinstalled it. And it was good learning from your comments that I already jumped that circuit, so that should not have been the issue.
Went to the inertia switch and it was not tripped. I manually put the button in the tripped position, lifting it with a flathead screwdriver, then reset it. Not sure if that did anything, but it made me feel better.
Then removed fuel tank selector switch. Ran a paperclip from 12v power pin hole to front fuel pump pin hole. Turned key to ON position and got priming noise. Did same with rear fuel pump and also got priming noise.
Replaced fuel tank selector switch with new one and truck fired right up, both front and rear tanks.
Frustrating because the fuel level was showing correctly with the fuel tank selector switch, it just wasn't powering the fuel pumps. I also just purchased that switch in Jan or Feb.
Anyway, I'll update again if anything further, but now I have to go put everything back together.
Cheers.
"The fuel pump ground terminal is near the drivers side head light". Not to hijack, but (a) why is the ground for the fuel pump so far away from the fuel pump, and (b) is the same ground used for the sender as the pump itself? My pump works, but the gauge always reads empty, just on the front tank. Probably sender itself, but it would sure be nice if it was just a ground someplace.
"The fuel pump ground terminal is near the drivers side head light". Not to hijack, but (a) why is the ground for the fuel pump so far away from the fuel pump, and (b) is the same ground used for the sender as the pump itself? My pump works, but the gauge always reads empty, just on the front tank. Probably sender itself, but it would sure be nice if it was just a ground someplace.
You might be able to measure the resistance of the sender at the disconnected connector, front and rear, and the design values, to compare them. This might give you an indication of the health of the sender.
"The fuel pump ground terminal is near the drivers side head light". Not to hijack, but (a) why is the ground for the fuel pump so far away from the fuel pump, and (b) is the same ground used for the sender as the pump itself? My pump works, but the gauge always reads empty, just on the front tank. Probably sender itself, but it would sure be nice if it was just a ground someplace.
It would help if we knew what year truck you have.
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