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I know that the A/C trucks have different firewall openings than non-A/C trucks. So, simply swapping heater core boxes doesn't work.
Since my truck did not come with a compressor nor the brackets and I don't have the inclination to go thru finding the necessary parts, how easy is it to simply 'delete' the existing A/C parts that remain so I have heat?
I have the condenser, and all of the parts that are in the heater core enclosure. Can they just be removed?
Or, am I better off removing the condenser and the lines and capping the rest off? Please keep in mind that I need to replace the heater core so the heater box is coming out anyways.
For those of us that are not experts, here's what a none AC truck looks like. I don't see why you just can't block off what is not needed from your AC system.
Why don't you show us what your's looks like for reference. I tried looking on Gary's site for an illustration but couldn't find it.
Think about it, your pretty good with these things.
OK Max, point taken. Firstly, my '81 F-100 parts truck is just like yours; no AC. And, I've pulled the heater box to remove the new heater core. So, here's a couple of pics of what's remaining in the engine compartment of my truck:
The smaller black AC line, that goes off screen in both images, is for the condenser coil. The coil (and the radiator support) have been removed. So, that line could be removed at the hard line connection just before it enters the heater box. The big line, that snakes around and tucks under the blower motor, can also be removed.
What I'm wondering is if I couldn't unbolt the heater box from the firewall and 'gut' the portion of the heater box that contains the cold side of the AC system. In the second image, there seems to be a convenient way to open up the side of the heater box and remove what's inside. OR, should I just remove everything outside of the heater box and leave the two hard lines protruding from the heater box?
OR
Again, I need to replace the heater core so the whole heater box is coming off of the firewall.
What you need to find is a 1987-up truck that is non-A/C. You can then take that complete protrusion off the firewall and put the non-A/C cover in place. 1980-1986 non-A/C trucks had a totally different duct system with the heater core out under the hood. In 1987 Ford wised up and made all the trucks the same, A/C or non-A/C all had the heater core behind the glove box. The 87-up non-A/C trucks had a nice flat cover that fits under the hood. A/C was pretty common though, so it might be a little difficult to find, I would look in the larger trucks that look like a pickup on the front, but are large dually work trucks.
I have done the same, taken all the A/C stuff off my Bronco. Even the coil in front of the radiator. It is amazing how much all that stuff weighs. I have the protrusion I would like to get rid off also, I think I am going to take it off, cut it up, and then fiberglass it back in or use sheetmetal to cover it back over. Air does have to go through there for the heater. So it needs to protrude just a little bit.
@Max Capacity One a different note, where does your dipstick enter the sump, thru the block or thru the pan? I think I have the same dipstick you do. Could you measure it for me? Mine measures 37" including the handle (everything I just wrote/posted sounds so perverted.........).
I would think what is less work. Once the AC is bypassed, it's not going to flow air. You just want to block any holes from removing the internal AC that could allow cold air in the winter.
Also keep the blower motor resistor, you may need that from the AC system to run the blower motor. My truck without AC can use any cheap $6.00 resistor from some 1975 Jeep. I had to replace mine a few years back, I only could find OEM resistors for trucks with AC, it was $26.00 back then.
What you need to find is a 1987-up truck that is non-A/C. You can then take that complete protrusion off the firewall and put the non-A/C cover in place. 1980-1986 non-A/C trucks had a totally different duct system with the heater core out under the hood. In 1987 Ford wised up and made all the trucks the same, A/C or non-A/C all had the heater core behind the glove box. The 87-up non-A/C trucks had a nice flat cover that fits under the hood. A/C was pretty common though, so it might be a little difficult to find, I would look in the larger trucks that look like a pickup on the front, but are large dually work trucks.
Originally Posted by Franklin2
I have done the same, taken all the A/C stuff off my Bronco. Even the coil in front of the radiator. It is amazing how much all that stuff weighs. I have the protrusion I would like to get rid off also, I think I am going to take it off, cut it up, and then fiberglass it back in or use sheet metal to cover it back over. Air does have to go through there for the heater. So it needs to protrude just a little bit.
You lost me a little bit here Dave. Could you explain a little more?
@Max Capacity One a different note, where does your dipstick enter the sump, thru the block or thru the pan? I think I have the same dipstick you do. Could you measure it for me? Mine measures 37" including the handle (everything I just wrote/posted sounds so perverted.........).
I'll put old shorts on and take pictures... be right back
Ok on the AC delete is real easy.
Remove the hoses and the drier, round can looking thing one of the hoses goes to and you are done.
Hook your heater core hoses back up like they should be and you will have everything but AC.
Dont throw out nay of the AC parts you remove because later on when you get too damn hot in the truck and want AC you just need to find the brackets and compressor. I would most likely get new hoses, drier and valve. Flush out the evap & condenser or just replace both as they are easy to replace and charge the system and have AC.
I drove my truck with out AC, no brackets or compressor, for a year or more and heat worked just as it should.
Oh I can tell you in the summer when it rained the windows fogged up in side with out AC and 1 of the reasons I got it working.
Dave ----
Not to valve cover but exhaust manifold. Notice the nuts as spacers.
This explains why my dip stick tube was hovering over the carb. The p.o. put early Mustang Tri-Y headers on the engine and that bracket disappeared. For those curious, no, the Tri-Y headers don't work in this application. They don't seal well (cylinders #2, #6 & #7 show leaks) and interfere with the mechanical clutch linkage. I am curious to know if Fox body Mustang (79-93?) shortie headers fit/work.
Originally Posted by Max Capacity
Remember, you asked for this...how I spend most of summer. These are the clean shorts... in case inquiring minds wanted to know
At least they're clean! Do I detect a pedicure....?
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Ok on the AC delete is real easy.
Remove the hoses and the drier, round can looking thing one of the hoses goes to and you are done.
Hook your heater core hoses back up like they should be and you will have everything but AC.
Don't throw out nay of the AC parts you remove because later on when you get too damn hot in the truck and want AC you just need to find the brackets and compressor. I would most likely get new hoses, drier and valve. Flush out the evap & condenser or just replace both as they are easy to replace and charge the system and have AC.
I drove my truck with out AC, no brackets or compressor, for a year or more and heat worked just as it should.
Oh I can tell you in the summer when it rained the windows fogged up in side with out AC and 1 of the reasons I got it working.
Yeah, this was a cake walk and I should have known better. I opted to split the heater box.
Pulled everything out and sealed it back up. The fun part was the "archeological artifacts" that I found:
Busted heater fan cage & window crank handle?
This explains the new heater fan and the handle must have fallen down from the dash thru the defroster duct.
This old racer sees one hell of an oil cooler there....
Gutted parts
And, I used a couple of old balsamic vinegar corks to close up the holes. 5/8" hole 'plugs'
I might have spent an hour doing this. And, I managed to drain the oil from the engine in the F-100 parts truck at the same time.
).
You win the internet today......
