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If shorts and flip flops works for a car show TV host why cant it work for us
But I draw the line I must wear shoes in the shop when working and maybe even boots depending on what I am doing.
Up till I retired a month ago I wore long pants and boots all the time as the job said I had to so that is what I wore in the shop.
Oh yes, I put safety first. I was just taking pictures. I have steel toe work shoes for doing work when I need them. I also wear Hyflex work gloves to protect my hands. Those items are something work required we wear, plus safety glasses, so it's second nature for me.
The method of gutting the box will work fine, but I want to get rid of the box. When you change sparkplugs valve cover gaskets, it's in the way. It's better to work around in a full size truck but my Bronco II is small. It's setup up the same as the full size, but everything is smaller and it's tight between that box and the v6 engine.
How often are you changing plugs and valve cover gaskets?
@Franklin2 You make a good point and TBH, I've never seen an engine in my truck (yet). @Max Capacity doesn't have AC in his truck but does have the 302. How much room is in there for changing plugs? I guess I should be happy I'm not using the 351M.
I hope not be be changing plugs or gaskets that often.
I have the 2.9 in my Bronco II. It's bad for valve cover gaskets leaking. They will last a couple of years and then start leaking again. Of course you have to take the sparkplug wires loose to get the valve cover off, that one on the rear pass side is a little difficult to get off.
I can say, changing plugs on my 302 is not a bad job. I wish my Subaru's were that easy.
I have tighten the valve covers over the years. Remember, the crate motor was installed back in Sept 1991. Took me until a couple of years ago to get serious about oil leaks and snugged up the oil pan and valve cover bolts. No leaks since. I think in the dipstick picture you can see where the oil pan gasket leaked, up the block... post 10
I recall having to get the back VC bolts from under the truck, with a Flexing 1/4" ratchet, etc.
I took a closer look and measured how far the AC side of the heater box protrudes from the firewall (~11"). Eyeballing the parts shows the engine is well inside the frame. Eyeballing my truck, the heater box is well outside the frame. I think it'll be OK, maybe snug but OK.
Also, is the old condenser worth saving? It looks every bit of being 44 years old. I'm inclined to recycle it.
As said above, keep the old parts around for a while, you or maybe another member may want them.
Which leads to a secondary question; what's worth 'recycling' for rebuild? My local parts stores are happy to accept rebuildable items (calipers, master cylinders, etc.). I won't get credit for them but at least I know they're going back into the parts stream.
Can you rebuild a brake booster? I have two of these.
Which leads to a secondary question; what's worth 'recycling' for rebuild? My local parts stores are happy to accept rebuildable items (calipers, master cylinders, etc.). I won't get credit for them but at least I know they're going back into the parts stream.
Can you rebuild a brake booster? I have two of these.
Yes boosters can be rebuilt as I have one on my 81 F100 and I need to send out the booster for my 70 AMC Javelin.
Going to call the place Monday as the parts store ones are all wrong, they say it will fit but is for a different make & model car all together they say!
You may want to re-think about "turning in" the parts and here is why.
How old is the truck? mine is 43 years old.
How much longer do you think you will be able to get rebuilt parts for it from a parts store?
Look at this Javelin. 20 years ago I could not find anyone that would rebuild the calipers. Dual pistons from the factory, only of 3 years so not many were sold.
And I had the calipers just think if I found someone that could rebuild them but I did not have any to rebuild!
As you get older you will want AC in that truck and you will be kicking your self for turning in or scrapping the parts as you will not be able to find them.
Yes you may find someone to rebuild but if you dont have it then what?
If you sell the truck sell it with all the parts what do you think the bed is for?
Oh that Javelin was a factory 390 4sp car that everyone wants. The 390 was in baskets and someone offered me a 401 (could used in race car) and cash for it so I sold it. I kick my self now for doing that as I will have a vary hard time to find motor to return it to factory stock.
The 390 and the 401 for that car is a 1 year only motor as the 390's before 1970 are different but can be made to work if you can find the parts.
I did get smart after that and kept the front disc set up, installed newer disc and replaced the 4sp with a 5sp over drive.
My pick up I pulled the bad T18 when I installed the NP435 and over drive. Everything I removed I kept so I can return the truck back to factory if I want or it goes with the truck if sold.
Just my .02 keep the parts
Dave ----
Look up the booster for your truck. If there is a core charge for your booster then they need them for rebuilding. If not then maybe hang on to them in case you need to rebuild one yourself. Having two would be better than one if you need to rebuild one yourself. Sometimes you don't have storage for old parts. I have space so I have just about every part I have replaced on the shelf, just in case.
Point taken everyone, thanks! I do plan to keep the parts I remove from my F-150 (esp. the AC components) but I also have an F-100 parts truck. These are the parts that I would consider "turning in" for rebuild and return to the parts stream as that truck will have nothing that the F-150 doesn't. The brake booster I bought did not have a core charge. But, I do know that master cylinders and brake calipers do. I can attempt to save parts and I already have a storage unit but they're not cheap to rent in perpetuity. Maybe I'll horde until the Flare Side is done, see the amount of parts that I've accumulated and re-assess then.
