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Calling power window gurus

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Old Jul 5, 2024 | 04:47 PM
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Calling power window gurus

99 lariat with the One Touch Down driver's side window is kicking my butt. I've read a lot and tried fixing it several ways but not making any progress. With original equipment suddenly driver's window will roll down about half an inch at a time, auto-stopping each time. Soft press vs hard press makes no difference. You can hear the relay click on then off.
Here's what I've done so far with no change in behavior.
  • Replaced motor
  • Replaced regulator
  • Lubricated window
  • Replaced switch (there are two switch designs,I've tried both)
  • Replaced GEM
  • Replaced relays
  • Installed motor in a free-spinning configuration so window friction/weight is out of the equation. (See photo)
Here's what I've done that does change behavior, but the behavior is wrong
  • Installed the other switch design
With the "wrong" switch design installed, the passenger window up/down polarity is reversed, but what's interesting on the driver's side the window will roll down like normal during soft touch. If you press fully to OTD it's exactly the same; down 1/2 inch and auto stop.

So, the "right" switch (including the original switch) seems to engage OTD no matter light you press it. The "wrong" switch only engages OTD fully pressed. It really feels like the issue is with the OTD function but I can't figure out what specifically. GEM was clean and dry, replaced it anyway. Switch clean and dry, replaced anyway. Motor spins freely, replaced it anyway. Window moves easily by hand with motor removed.

What am in missing? This window did work normally 2 weeks ago, then suddenly stopped.

Shouldn't matter I think but full disclosure, I have the intake off the engine fixing coolant leaks when this started happening.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2024 | 05:23 PM
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From: Sportsman's Paradise
Originally Posted by seijirou
99 lariat with the One Touch Down driver's side window is kicking my butt. I've read a lot and tried fixing it several ways but not making any progress. With original equipment suddenly driver's window will roll down about half an inch at a time, auto-stopping each time. Soft press vs hard press makes no difference. You can hear the relay click on then off.
Here's what I've done so far with no change in behavior.
  • Replaced motor
  • Replaced regulator
  • Lubricated window
  • Replaced switch (there are two switch designs,I've tried both)
  • Replaced GEM
  • Replaced relays
  • Installed motor in a free-spinning configuration so window friction/weight is out of the equation. (See photo)
Here's what I've done that does change behavior, but the behavior is wrong
  • Installed the other switch design
With the "wrong" switch design installed, the passenger window up/down polarity is reversed, but what's interesting on the driver's side the window will roll down like normal during soft touch. If you press fully to OTD it's exactly the same; down 1/2 inch and auto stop.

So, the "right" switch (including the original switch) seems to engage OTD no matter light you press it. The "wrong" switch only engages OTD fully pressed. It really feels like the issue is with the OTD function but I can't figure out what specifically. GEM was clean and dry, replaced it anyway. Switch clean and dry, replaced anyway. Motor spins freely, replaced it anyway. Window moves easily by hand with motor removed.

What am in missing? This window did work normally 2 weeks ago, then suddenly stopped.

Shouldn't matter I think but full disclosure, I have the intake off the engine fixing coolant leaks when this started happening.
I might be able to help you with this but you're going to need a scan tool that can read the GEM in your truck. It's what has all control of the windows among other things. I'm not entirely certain but Forscan might be able to and it's free software. Need to pull the codes from the GEM before anything can be done with any semblance of certainty, I have all the 411 on diag and such. forscan.org for more info on that.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2024 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by RLXXI
I might be able to help you with this but you're going to need a scan tool that can read the GEM in your truck. It's what has all control of the windows among other things. I'm not entirely certain but Forscan might be able to and it's free software. Need to pull the codes from the GEM before anything can be done with any semblance of certainty, I have all the 411 on diag and such. forscan.org for more info on that.
Thanks. I'll get Forscan fired up and report back.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2024 | 05:56 AM
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You have checked the wiring through the door accordion?
BCM and GEM problems are rare IMO
Water intrusion into the GEM sure is a common problem
 
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Old Jul 7, 2024 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by RLXXI
I might be able to help you with this but you're going to need a scan tool that can read the GEM in your truck. It's what has all control of the windows among other things. I'm not entirely certain but Forscan might be able to and it's free software. Need to pull the codes from the GEM before anything can be done with any semblance of certainty, I have all the 411 on diag and such. forscan.org for more info on that.
I have Forscan connected and working. No GEM codes but with the battery unconnected for an extended period of time, maybe they were cleared?

I did a little logging of the GEM while manipulating the window, however the refresh rate of my dongle is slow. Slow enough that it usually wouldn't catch the on/off of the relay in time.

So what's the 411 you speak of?


 
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Old Jul 7, 2024 | 12:29 PM
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From: Sportsman's Paradise
Originally Posted by seijirou
I have Forscan connected and working. No GEM codes but with the battery unconnected for an extended period of time, maybe they were cleared?
So what's the 411 you speak of?

 
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Old Jul 7, 2024 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by RLXXI
That's cool. I guess what I meant to say is, what are the next steps for diag?
 
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Old Jul 7, 2024 | 12:57 PM
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From: Sportsman's Paradise
Originally Posted by seijirou
That's cool. I guess what I meant to say is, what are the next steps for diag?
Pick which one most accurately describes your concern.


 
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Old Jul 7, 2024 | 01:02 PM
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3rd from the bottom, OTD feature is inoperative.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2024 | 01:10 PM
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From: Sportsman's Paradise


Keep in mind these tests are relating to information for Ford's diagnostic software and may differ from FORscan's terminology.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2024 | 05:08 AM
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True story
Ford has you using a NGS or WDS and checking the pids with that
This is your scan tool for a 1999
Mine will run your wipers, windows and 4x4 shift motor, et al. all from the scan tool

 
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Old Jul 8, 2024 | 06:20 AM
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From: Sportsman's Paradise
Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
True story
Ford has you using a NGS or WDS and checking the pids with that
This is your scan tool for a 1999
Mine will run your wipers, windows and 4x4 shift motor, et al. all from the scan tool
Mine isn't nearly that clean, it's seen things lol. Did manage to upgrade it to the last iteration bringing in CAN ability up to 2010 models, then got a VCMII with cfr, new gen has been shelved ever since.



 
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Old Jul 8, 2024 | 08:21 AM
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Well, I kept mine in my new toolbox that I had bought at the time and let very few others use it (just my team members)
How did you get yours updated RLXXI?
I had a friend who had all the Mazda cards
How much was your VCMII?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2024 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
Ford has you using a NGS or WDS and checking the pids with that
Yeah I noticed. Unfortunately I don't believe Forscan can do that for this vehicle, or perhaps I just don't know how.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2024 | 08:41 AM
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From: Sportsman's Paradise
Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
Well, I kept mine in my new toolbox that I had bought at the time and let very few others use it (just my team members)
How did you get yours updated RLXXI?
I had a friend who had all the Mazda cards
How much was your VCMII?
Upgrade kit from Hickok, came with a new module and cable and new thin cards.




The VCMII was $1,500 with cfr. And the IDS license was $700/yr. I think it's over $900 now.
 
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