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99 lariat with the One Touch Down driver's side window is kicking my butt. I've read a lot and tried fixing it several ways but not making any progress. With original equipment suddenly driver's window will roll down about half an inch at a time, auto-stopping each time. Soft press vs hard press makes no difference. You can hear the relay click on then off.
Here's what I've done so far with no change in behavior.
Replaced motor
Replaced regulator
Lubricated window
Replaced switch (there are two switch designs,I've tried both)
Replaced GEM
Replaced relays
Installed motor in a free-spinning configuration so window friction/weight is out of the equation. (See photo)
Here's what I've done that does change behavior, but the behavior is wrong
Installed the other switch design
With the "wrong" switch design installed, the passenger window up/down polarity is reversed, but what's interesting on the driver's side the window will roll down like normal during soft touch. If you press fully to OTD it's exactly the same; down 1/2 inch and auto stop.
So, the "right" switch (including the original switch) seems to engage OTD no matter light you press it. The "wrong" switch only engages OTD fully pressed. It really feels like the issue is with the OTD function but I can't figure out what specifically. GEM was clean and dry, replaced it anyway. Switch clean and dry, replaced anyway. Motor spins freely, replaced it anyway. Window moves easily by hand with motor removed.
What am in missing? This window did work normally 2 weeks ago, then suddenly stopped.
Shouldn't matter I think but full disclosure, I have the intake off the engine fixing coolant leaks when this started happening.
99 lariat with the One Touch Down driver's side window is kicking my butt. I've read a lot and tried fixing it several ways but not making any progress. With original equipment suddenly driver's window will roll down about half an inch at a time, auto-stopping each time. Soft press vs hard press makes no difference. You can hear the relay click on then off.
Here's what I've done so far with no change in behavior.
Replaced motor
Replaced regulator
Lubricated window
Replaced switch (there are two switch designs,I've tried both)
Replaced GEM
Replaced relays
Installed motor in a free-spinning configuration so window friction/weight is out of the equation. (See photo)
Here's what I've done that does change behavior, but the behavior is wrong
Installed the other switch design
With the "wrong" switch design installed, the passenger window up/down polarity is reversed, but what's interesting on the driver's side the window will roll down like normal during soft touch. If you press fully to OTD it's exactly the same; down 1/2 inch and auto stop.
So, the "right" switch (including the original switch) seems to engage OTD no matter light you press it. The "wrong" switch only engages OTD fully pressed. It really feels like the issue is with the OTD function but I can't figure out what specifically. GEM was clean and dry, replaced it anyway. Switch clean and dry, replaced anyway. Motor spins freely, replaced it anyway. Window moves easily by hand with motor removed.
What am in missing? This window did work normally 2 weeks ago, then suddenly stopped.
Shouldn't matter I think but full disclosure, I have the intake off the engine fixing coolant leaks when this started happening.
I might be able to help you with this but you're going to need a scan tool that can read the GEM in your truck. It's what has all control of the windows among other things. I'm not entirely certain but Forscan might be able to and it's free software. Need to pull the codes from the GEM before anything can be done with any semblance of certainty, I have all the 411 on diag and such. forscan.org for more info on that.
I might be able to help you with this but you're going to need a scan tool that can read the GEM in your truck. It's what has all control of the windows among other things. I'm not entirely certain but Forscan might be able to and it's free software. Need to pull the codes from the GEM before anything can be done with any semblance of certainty, I have all the 411 on diag and such. forscan.org for more info on that.
Thanks. I'll get Forscan fired up and report back.
I might be able to help you with this but you're going to need a scan tool that can read the GEM in your truck. It's what has all control of the windows among other things. I'm not entirely certain but Forscan might be able to and it's free software. Need to pull the codes from the GEM before anything can be done with any semblance of certainty, I have all the 411 on diag and such. forscan.org for more info on that.
I have Forscan connected and working. No GEM codes but with the battery unconnected for an extended period of time, maybe they were cleared?
I did a little logging of the GEM while manipulating the window, however the refresh rate of my dongle is slow. Slow enough that it usually wouldn't catch the on/off of the relay in time.
I have Forscan connected and working. No GEM codes but with the battery unconnected for an extended period of time, maybe they were cleared?
So what's the 411 you speak of?
True story
Ford has you using a NGS or WDS and checking the pids with that
This is your scan tool for a 1999
Mine will run your wipers, windows and 4x4 shift motor, et al. all from the scan tool
True story
Ford has you using a NGS or WDS and checking the pids with that
This is your scan tool for a 1999
Mine will run your wipers, windows and 4x4 shift motor, et al. all from the scan tool
Mine isn't nearly that clean, it's seen things lol. Did manage to upgrade it to the last iteration bringing in CAN ability up to 2010 models, then got a VCMII with cfr, new gen has been shelved ever since.
Well, I kept mine in my new toolbox that I had bought at the time and let very few others use it (just my team members)
How did you get yours updated RLXXI?
I had a friend who had all the Mazda cards
How much was your VCMII?
Well, I kept mine in my new toolbox that I had bought at the time and let very few others use it (just my team members)
How did you get yours updated RLXXI?
I had a friend who had all the Mazda cards
How much was your VCMII?
Upgrade kit from Hickok, came with a new module and cable and new thin cards.
The VCMII was $1,500 with cfr. And the IDS license was $700/yr. I think it's over $900 now.
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