When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
They are safe if it is done right. The fan will probably hit the bottom of the fan shroud with a 3" body lift so you will have to modify your shroud. You should also check to make sure your radiator hoses still fit properly. Check to make sure your battery cables will be long enough. If is a standard, you will need to modify your clutch linkage or clutch hose, whichever applies. Your shifter linkage may need to be extended. You will have to stretch the coils in your brake lines from the master cylinder or add to them. The MAIN thing to do is to make sure you still have enough steering shaft in your slip joint on the steering column. They have been known to come out when not compensated for. You may also have to install longer fuel filler hoses. I put one on my Jeep about 8 years ago and have had no problems but I did it right. I also built custom front and rear bumpers that I could mount in several different positions in case I ever wanted to take the body lift off. The worst thing about a body lift is, if you don`t modify the way your bumpers mount it creates a gap between your body and bumpers and between the body and frame. I also built my nerf bars the same way (adjustable) to hide the gap. I also did a spring-over conversion on it but that is not an option on your `83 F150 unless you`ve put a straight axle with leaf springs in it. The best option would be to put a suspension lift in it but it will cost more. That`s about all that I can think of for now for you to watch out for. Good luck.
I would recommend the 2" body lift unless you really need the extra clearance. The gap in front isn't quite as bad because the bottom of the front valance (i think that is what it is called) lines almost right up with the top of the bumper rather than having a 1" gap.
if the clutch is hydraulic it should have enough play. you will have to relocate the fan shroud, loosen the steering shaft so it can adjust for the body movement, and you *may* have to mess with your shifters.
I installed a 2" on my old '84 manual and the worst part was the rusted bed bolts rather than the rest of the job. Just don't make any modifications which can't be undone. My instructions had said to cut the bottom of the shroud off, which I did. My current truck had a 3" body lift when I bought it and simply used two straight pieces of metal to relocate the shroud down 3", MUCH better solution, wish I had thought of that. I just didn't like the larger gaps created by the 3" so removed it.
Thanks man i will figure the same i got 2 guys with air tools but no lft or torch unleass you consider the tractor we will use to left bed and cab a lift lol
If you cant use the tractor to lift up on the cab, park the truck under something that can have a comealong attached to it and use a towstrap slung under the cab and bed and use the comealong to lift up on the cab and bed. Those are more precise lifters than a tractor and you can leave the truck inside the shop or barn (wherever you hook the comealong to) to keep it out of the weather this time of year while your workin on it.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.