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I pulled the VSS connector covered both sides so not to allow road debris to get in and took for test drive, issue remains the same only difference is the brake indicator light stayed on.
Electrically speaking, how is the wiring between the PCM and the VSS? Does it have continuity? High resistance? Short to power? Short to ground?
I borrowed a multimeter and tested at the plug with the key on which I would assume verifies continuity through the wire harness to the pcm and back to the plug, now as far as resistance that I don't know how to check, I also checked the old and new VSS and had continuity in both as well. Not sure if this information tells you anything but I'm wondering what my next step should be.
Test resistance in each wire between VSS and PCM. Test continuity between each contact pair at VSS connector (unplugged at PCM). Test continuity between each contact at VSS connector and ground (unplugged at PCM).
Speedometer was still working but bouncing just as bad, only thing different was the brake indicator light was on, once I plugged vss back in and restarted the van the indicator light went out.
I borrowed a multimeter and tested at the plug with the key on which I would assume verifies continuity through the wire harness to the pcm and back to the plug,
I have no idea what that means.
Disconnect the connector at the PCM and at the VSS. Probing the BACK of each connector with the multimeter set on ohms, measure the resistance of the wire to the VSS from one connector to the other. It should be almost zero ohms.
Next, move either of the probes to a good ground. This should show open, meaning there is no continuity. Now move that probe to the positive terminal on the battery. That should also be open.
Disconnect the connector at the PCM and at the VSS. Probing the BACK of each connector with the multimeter set on ohms, measure the resistance of the wire to the VSS from one connector to the other. It should be almost zero ohms.
Next, move either of the probes to a good ground. This should show open, meaning there is no continuity. Now move that probe to the positive terminal on the battery. That should also be open.
I know this is only half of the procedure you asked me to do but I wanted to make sure I'm performing this correctly so far.
Nope. Now you have it set at 200k. You need to set it to 200.
Sorry
Electrical issues are not my specialty, I'll get out there tonight if daylight permits or else I'll do it tomorrow.
Once again thank you so much for being patient with me helping me
Nope. Now you have it set at 200k. You need to set it to 200.
Pin #58 It started out about 175.0 and steadily walked down to zero like less the 60 seconds. Pin #33 Did the same as above and did reach zero
After the photos I then left one lead plugged into PCM plug on Pin #58 and the other lead I did as you said and touched it to a good ground and also then the positive on the battery and both did not zero out
So if I'm following along correctly seeing how the VSS has been changed and the circuits are good and the dash cluster has nothing to do with it that means it is pointing to either the PCM or the tone ring (which you said hardly ever goes bad) what would be your best educated guess to be my next step...I'm leaning to the PCM...what say you?
There are a few places I found from a google search that claim lifetime warranty and pre programmed with VIN number, or do you know of a known reputable company to deal with?
Just a question before I start removing the pcm tomorrow, when I tested the ground and positive with the one lead in the #58 pin is the VSS supposed to be plugged in or not?
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