When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Alt sits on a bracket, that sits on the block or font cover and all are dissimilar metal making for galvanic corrosion over time and who would want to clean up that alt mounting bracket by taking it off to install an HO alt?
easy to add in a wire to make it grounded and be sure about it
a .5 ohm drop may not seem like much at first but its like crushing your down pipe to 1 inch when needing FULL POWAH
The alternator may have a great physical & electrical connection to the engine, but the weak link is the ground connections from the engine to the chassis & then to the battery. By adding a direct additional cable from the alternator (or as I'm doing) or one of the mounting bolts just eliminates the possibility of a high resistance path.
The OEM ground for the driver's side battery is directly to the engine block, not the chassis.
I would rather prefer to have a "weaker" ground to the chassis, and an even more pathetic ground to the body.
Since the heaviest electrical load (barring any aftermarket equipment like two way radios, winches, or fancy stereos) that a stock truck endures is for starter and glow plugs, both of which are inherently grounded to the engine itself, that is where I would want my least resistant ground path to exist, so that those loads are not tempted to course through the chassis frame, or worse, the body itself, if the path of least resistance was found there.
Ok, so I measured voltage at battery terminals and then battery to alternator chassis... they read the same
Then resistance between battery and alternator chassis.... My meter can't read that low...and I don't have a micro ohm meter
For all "practical" purposes the resistance is nill.
The alternator may have a great physical & electrical connection to the engine, but the weak link is the ground connections from the engine to the chassis & then to the battery. By adding a direct additional cable from the alternator (or as I'm doing) or one of the mounting bolts just eliminates the possibility of a high resistance path.
this is precisely why I use an extra Ground cable from the engine/alternator to the Battery Negative terminal(s)
K.I.S.S.
Run that extra ground cable from the alternator to the battery and completley eliminate any doubts about where that ground circuit has to go to find its way back to the battery. Move on to other things in life and never question it again.
K.I.S.S.
Run that extra ground cable from the alternator to the battery and completley eliminate any doubts about where that ground circuit has to go to find its way back to the battery. Move on to other things in life and never question it again.
ding ding ding..
as the Far East Judge (Japan Region) I have awarded 9.3 points for this answer. I have deducted .7 points for being too polite.
Three mounting bolts???? Well that changes everything, so that path is only good for 1300 amps
I am going to inject a little info to be pondered by this group of mega alternator enthusiasts. Aluminum brackets and steel bolts are not copper wire. From what I have learned about the travel path of electrons is that they move on the surface of the wire. Soooo, what we really need to accomplish for the task of high amperage duty is to use a larger cable with the largest strand count available. Just a little food for thought.
Ok, so I measured voltage at battery terminals and then battery to alternator chassis... they read the same
Then resistance between battery and alternator chassis.... My meter can't read that low...and I don't have a micro ohm meter
For all "practical" purposes the resistance is nill.
The resistance may be nil, zero, 0, or however you want to measure it, but that's putting milliamps through it, a different story under a couple of hundred amps........
Ohms is the resistance to electrical flow, no matter if it's mili amps or mega amps, zero is still zero.
Ok, so with my calculations, 2/0 will handle 175 amps total, now we all know not to exceed 80 percent capacity on electrical components. 175 amps at 80 percent is 140 amps, just slightly above factory alternator output of 110. 2/0 cable will not handle "hundreds" of amps.
Now with that said, the factory has two 2/0 cables going from the batteries to the block, factory capacity is 350 amps, 280 @ 80 percent, more than enough to handle a 240 amp alternator.
I have two 4/0 cables going to the block, 600 amp total capacity, 480 amps @ 80 percent.
Yes, I am a firm believer in the KISS principle, two 4/0 cables going to the block (where the factory intended) provides more amp capacity than two 2/0 cables going to the block, and one 2/0 attached to the alternator housing.
I'm trying to understand why the separate ground from alternator to battery? There are 4 bolts holding an aluminum frame alternator to the bracket. Seems to me that there is a lot of grounding surface area already. You also have a ground cable at the lower edge of the block, if you really feel the need to ground the alternator, why not run it to the block ground?
Aluminum is 67% conductive compared to gold. Copper is about 89% conductive to gold. You are better off with an isolated ground.
Yes I know that al has a lower conductive capacity than gold or copper, BUT, the conductive path, no matter if it's gold, silver, copper or aluminum is still greater than any alternator available, so it became a moot point. Well unless you have an 800 amp alternator?.
As far as a dedicated ground...is there such a thing on a vehicle? Batteries grounded to the block in two places,,body grounded to the batteries in two places,, block grounded to the body in three places, and frame grounded to the body in two places. Where's the dedicated ground?
the more Grounds, the merrier, and that is why there are so many of them.
It spreads the Current Draw out, so one Ground wire has to handle all of the current.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.