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When my truck starts to warm up it starts to die. Has anyone ever had trouble with their starter overheating? If so can I just wrap it with fire protected insulation! Also I did try to use a tachometer on my truck but it’s sporadic and it too good to be doing that. It’s a 83 2wd. Could if of just been a bad tachometer? Also it overheats if I sit in the sun too long? Which isn’t new to me, so I was going to add dual l pulling fans in with a thermostat. Think that will help?
Can you throw us a bone? Some more details would sure help. I'm not very good at mind-reading...
Which engine, for starters. Any modifications?
Does it have headers?
What happens when the engine "starts to die" as it warms up? Does it sputter and behave erratically? Does it just quit with no warning?
What's going on with the starter "overheating"? Do you mean it's getting hot from the exhaust? Or is it getting sluggish from extended cranking?
Overheating from sitting in the sun? The stock cooling system, in good working order, can easily handle any extra heat from the sun. Maybe not years from now when the sun enters supernova stage, but under present conditions it shouldn't be a problem. Don't slap electric cooling fans on there as a band-aid. Figure out what's deficient and fix that.
There’s no headers just factory manifolds. It’s a 351w. It stays running when it’s warm. But once I shut it off immediately it just cranks over and doesn’t start. It has a 2bbl carb I was thinking maybe gas could be boiling. But how do I stop that? Lower the floats? I mean started getting hot from exhaust. It runs great when it’s running. Just if I go into a grocery store and out chances are I have to sit there for 20 minutes or more to start it again. As far as overheating I’ve always had ford trucks that never stayed a stable temperature just running in place. I also don’t have a shroud on there so I’m going to do that first before supplemental electric fans.
When it doesn't start hot, what do you mean? Does it crank crank crank and not fire? Or does it just click and not turn over at all? Or does it turn over slow?
And you keep saying it is overheating. How do you know this? What signs or clues is it giving you that it is overheating?
Sorry for not being clear. It cranks very slowly. And well it gets up to about 235 degrees. I haven’t had it hotter than that yet.
Originally Posted by Franklin2
When it doesn't start hot, what do you mean? Does it crank crank crank and not fire? Or does it just click and not turn over at all? Or does it turn over slow?
And you keep saying it is overheating. How do you know this? What signs or clues is it giving you that it is overheating?
Run the test at the link above and it will pinpoint the root cause. Duplicate the same conditions when the fault occurs, i.e. engine warmed up.
Why does the starter system behave when the engine is cold, but not when warm? When cold, compressionis lower, which in turn reduces the load on the starter. It's easier for the starter system to get the crankshaft spinning with less compression. Once the engine warms up, compression increases and the starter system has to work harder. Note I keep saying "system", which includes not just the starter, but also the battery, all cables, starter relay, and all connections. If the system is marginal, it may have just enough oomph to work with a cold engine, but not enough reserve for when things are warm.
Also, please note the test disables the ignition and completely takes it out of the equation.
So do they make stronger starters for cranking? It could be the battery too however when I test it with the voltmeter I get the right voltage. So I don’t think it’s that.
Run the test at the link above and it will pinpoint the root cause. Duplicate the same conditions when the fault occurs, i.e. engine warmed up.
Why does the starter system behave when the engine is cold, but not when warm? When cold, compressionis lower, which in turn reduces the load on the starter. It's easier for the starter system to get the crankshaft spinning with less compression. Once the engine warms up, compression increases and the starter system has to work harder. Note I keep saying "system", which includes not just the starter, but also the battery, all cables, starter relay, and all connections. If the system is marginal, it may have just enough oomph to work with a cold engine, but not enough reserve for when things are warm.
Also, please note the test disables the ignition and completely takes it out of the equation.
So do they make stronger starters for cranking? It could be the battery too however when I test it with the voltmeter I get the right voltage. So I don’t think it’s that.
The stock starter, in good working condition, is perfectly adequate for our trucks. I ran the original starter on my 351W for approximately 30 years without a single problem. Somebody does make an upgraded (read: expensive) version but it is absolutely not needed.
Re: Battery voltage. Did you measure at rest, or with the starter engaged? An unloaded voltage measurement is gee-whiz info at best and doesn't really tell us much. The real proof is a voltage reading taken under load.
Please run the test detailed at the link in my previous reply. Ten minutes and three simple meter set-ups to do. I swear up and down on that test. It will pinpoint the exact root cause for the starter issues you are experiencing.
So do they make stronger starters for cranking? It could be the battery too however when I test it with the voltmeter I get the right voltage. So I don’t think it’s that.
You can't test the battery just sitting there. You need to test the voltage of the battery while cranking. So two people to get a meaningful test, one inside turning the key, the other operating the meter. It's been a long time since I read the starter testing link kr98664 pushes, but I believe some of his tests will also require two people. You have to test under load.
Looks like your battery and cables could use some love. Karl will be along to reprimand you for the clamp on battery terminal end. Your ground post looks almost ovaled out. Might be the camera angle. At a minimum address the corrosion on the cables and get a 3 buck battery terminal cleaner and use it everytime the battery is disconnected and reconnected. You be surprised how fast lead oxidizes and oxidized lead terminal is a poor connection. We use a little grease or oil to cure corrosion of cable ends, terminals. Not in the connection interface. The exterior of a made connection.
it’s just the picture. I cleaned all the terminals and everything it still does it. The lead terminals are shiny, just the tops are kind of faded. Maybe I’ll just replace the battery and see if that does it.
Originally Posted by BigBlue2
Looks like your battery and cables could use some love. Karl will be along to reprimand you for the clamp on battery terminal end. Your ground post looks almost ovaled out. Might be the camera angle. At a minimum address the corrosion on the cables and get a 3 buck battery terminal cleaner and use it everytime the battery is disconnected and reconnected. You be surprised how fast lead oxidizes and oxidized lead terminal is a poor connection. We use a little grease or oil to cure corrosion of cable ends, terminals. Not in the connection interface. The exterior of a made connection.
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