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May 2023, 86,000 km / 3200hrs, drain and fill cooling system with OEM coolant/distilled water(Done by me)
Jan 9 2024, 108,000 km / 3850hrs Heater Core plugged, replaced by dealer.
May 29 2024, 119,775 km / 4180hrs Heater Core plugged, replaced by dealer, removed thermostat and flushed block, removed rad and flushed. Filled with new coolant.
June 2 2024, 119,900 km / 4182hrs Heater Core appears to be plugged again, lost heat on drivers side first, now little heat at all even from passenger side.
I've never seen or heard of this before, heater core becoming plugged almost immediately after a complete flush.
I would like to install a filter before the inlet on the heater hose to prevent this as it's getting old fast but have warranty concerns. If I did go the filter route does anyone have a suggestion as to what a good filter/housing setup would be?
Any ideas on what is causing this?
I asked them to cut the core open last time so we could see what is plugging them but they declined.
I would like to install a filter before the inlet on the heater hose to prevent this as it's getting old fast but have warranty concerns. If I did go the filter route does anyone have a suggestion as to what a good filter/housing setup would be?
No help with what could be causing it, however if you go the coolant filter route most kits are based off the Baldwin CFB5000:
Using incompatible anti-freeze can cause deposits, and those could build up and cause a blockage.
Beyond that, take the plugged core and cut it open and see if you can tell what is blocking it.
I used VC-13-G coolant which is what would have been in it from the factory.
I would have loved to open the cores up and asked them to do it but when your dealing with warranty and a big dealership you don't even get to talk to the techs. I hate the dealership model.
Edit: I do agree it seems like a incompatible coolant issue.
I guess my question is more where do I go from here.
I used VC-13-G coolant which is what would have been in it from the factory.
I would have loved to open the cores up and asked them to do it but when your dealing with warranty and a big dealership you don't even get to talk to the techs. I hate the dealership model.
Edit: I do agree it seems like a incompatible coolant issue.
I guess my question is more where do I go from here.
Only thing I could suggest would be a more thorough flush by the tech before re-filling the coolant.
But, of course, that is in the tech's hands and as you say, you don't even get to talk to the tech usually.
Also, you said "you used the VC-13G" but are you sure the dealer tech did?
The old style coolant is definitely not compatible, and I have talked to dealer people who still think it takes the old gold color coolant.
look closer at your invoices to see what is listed for the coolant. I cannot imagine this as an issue unless you are putting in stuff that gels or gums up.
If you go the filter route, just be careful of what filter is used. Some filters come with a coolant additive (SCA) used to prevent cavitation, which the 6.7 does not need or use. It can contaminate the coolant instead of filtering it. https://www.donaldson.com/en-us/engi...-blue-filters/
Only thing I could suggest would be a more thorough flush by the tech before re-filling the coolant.
But, of course, that is in the tech's hands and as you say, you don't even get to talk to the tech usually.
Also, you said "you used the VC-13G" but are you sure the dealer tech did?
The old style coolant is definitely not compatible, and I have talked to dealer people who still think it takes the old gold color coolant.
The paper work has the part number for the concentrated VC-13G, who knows what they used for water.
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