A/C Reinstall
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 249
Likes: 38
From: Wilmington
A/C Reinstall
So, I have been working on reinstalling the deleted factory air system back into my truck.
EVERYTHING is new—hoses, compressor (four seasons), etc.
When I first charged it, got quite cold. Since then…..it seems to lose charge. Here is the sequence of events:
The standard problem is this: When I fill it gets REALLY cold. Compressor mostly stays on/clutch engaged. High pressure around 100-150. Suction line huddles around 30-35 up and down highest 40ish. Once it dips to 30 compressor cuts.
Originally, I filled with 3 cans. Cold as can be. (My sticker is gone by the way—HOWEVER on a 1979 with same compressor and brackets—I think there is a cleveland still in it!—at junkyard, stick says 2.75 lbs R12) Then every morning after I go out, and the compressor turns on and off in rather quick fashion, and it never gets cold—ok, well maybe a tad cool. If I add a can, cold as can be again. Next morning….repeat.
After running today, without adding any can, I used an electronic sniffer I picked up. The only place it beeps in rapid fashion is around the felt near the clutch of the compressor. That could be a false reading, but it does it no place else. Compressor is a four seasons. I am thinking I have a bad compressor out of the box now. I cannot get a beep on ANY of the fittings.
This is the third time Rock Auto has sent me bad new (not reman) parts.
Thinking of adding a can and using sniffer as I am adding it to make sure I am not getting a false reading. Electronic sniffer beeps when I hover around my manifold gauge by the way, so I know it is working as there is remnant oil/refrig still in the lines.
I should add one other thing: this compressor is LOUD—like gravel loud. Without the clutch engaged, the compressor runs smooth, but once engaged, the belt shakes, and the gravel sound is literally felt if I am in the truck.
Here is link to leak detection:
EVERYTHING is new—hoses, compressor (four seasons), etc.
When I first charged it, got quite cold. Since then…..it seems to lose charge. Here is the sequence of events:
The standard problem is this: When I fill it gets REALLY cold. Compressor mostly stays on/clutch engaged. High pressure around 100-150. Suction line huddles around 30-35 up and down highest 40ish. Once it dips to 30 compressor cuts.
Originally, I filled with 3 cans. Cold as can be. (My sticker is gone by the way—HOWEVER on a 1979 with same compressor and brackets—I think there is a cleveland still in it!—at junkyard, stick says 2.75 lbs R12) Then every morning after I go out, and the compressor turns on and off in rather quick fashion, and it never gets cold—ok, well maybe a tad cool. If I add a can, cold as can be again. Next morning….repeat.
After running today, without adding any can, I used an electronic sniffer I picked up. The only place it beeps in rapid fashion is around the felt near the clutch of the compressor. That could be a false reading, but it does it no place else. Compressor is a four seasons. I am thinking I have a bad compressor out of the box now. I cannot get a beep on ANY of the fittings.
This is the third time Rock Auto has sent me bad new (not reman) parts.
Thinking of adding a can and using sniffer as I am adding it to make sure I am not getting a false reading. Electronic sniffer beeps when I hover around my manifold gauge by the way, so I know it is working as there is remnant oil/refrig still in the lines.
I should add one other thing: this compressor is LOUD—like gravel loud. Without the clutch engaged, the compressor runs smooth, but once engaged, the belt shakes, and the gravel sound is literally felt if I am in the truck.
Here is link to leak detection:
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,940
Likes: 4,125
From: Angier, NC
You did not say, and I hope you did, if you pulled a vacuum and if so down to what HG and for how long did it sit to see if it held?
You should have pulled it down to 20 hg and let it sit for a min. of an hour.
If it holds with out dropping I would run the pump for another hour or more before putting a charge in.
The pressure switch is it for 134a or the old one for R12?
Do you know the on / off psi is on it? My 134a had the psi on the side of the switch.
The compressor going on & off is a sign of the system being low on charge.
I think if all the rest was done right I would put more charge in it.
Where did you get the sniffer from?
Dave ----
You should have pulled it down to 20 hg and let it sit for a min. of an hour.
If it holds with out dropping I would run the pump for another hour or more before putting a charge in.
The pressure switch is it for 134a or the old one for R12?
Do you know the on / off psi is on it? My 134a had the psi on the side of the switch.
The compressor going on & off is a sign of the system being low on charge.
I think if all the rest was done right I would put more charge in it.
Where did you get the sniffer from?
Dave ----
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 249
Likes: 38
From: Wilmington
You did not say, and I hope you did, if you pulled a vacuum and if so down to what HG and for how long did it sit to see if it held?
You should have pulled it down to 20 hg and let it sit for a min. of an hour.
If it holds with out dropping I would run the pump for another hour or more before putting a charge in.
The pressure switch is it for 134a or the old one for R12?
Do you know the on / off psi is on it? My 134a had the psi on the side of the switch.
The compressor going on & off is a sign of the system being low on charge.
I think if all the rest was done right I would put more charge in it.
Where did you get the sniffer from?
Dave ----
You should have pulled it down to 20 hg and let it sit for a min. of an hour.
If it holds with out dropping I would run the pump for another hour or more before putting a charge in.
The pressure switch is it for 134a or the old one for R12?
Do you know the on / off psi is on it? My 134a had the psi on the side of the switch.
The compressor going on & off is a sign of the system being low on charge.
I think if all the rest was done right I would put more charge in it.
Where did you get the sniffer from?
Dave ----
Everything is for 134. 4oz of oil is in it—3 oz came with the pump already in it.
When I pulled the vac before anything else was done, it held at -25 and 0 for for about an hour.. Are you saying I should, as it is, run the vac again (without losing anything that is already in there?)
I mentioned in the vid I got it from harbor. Of course, I wonder about reliability, but it does pick up the refrig when tested I have to say. Now whether it actually is picking it up around the compressor is my only pause. It does consistently pick it up there, and NOT around the fittings.
As to the charge—that is just it….I put charge in, and it really runs great. Then next day, same issue all over again. That is why I suspect it was losing something somewhere.
Cheers Dave!
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,997
Likes: 2,743
From: Virginia
Does sound like a leak. The most common place for them to leak is around the shaft seal. They can also leak where they are bolted together in sections. Sounds like you have a decent leak, if it's an area you can get to ordinary soapy water will form bubbles if you have a leak.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,997
Likes: 2,743
From: Virginia
P.S. Just thought of a interesting experiment, if your lines are long enough, take the compressor off while leaving the refrigerant lines hooked up and see if you can submerge it in a small bucket or pan of water.
Trending Topics
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,940
Likes: 4,125
From: Angier, NC
No dont put the vacuum pump on the system just add 1 more can.
When I first put my system together and charged it think I used 4 or 5 cans.
Based on when the system should of held, 80%? of what R12 was IIRC was like 3 cans but like you the compressor would kick on & off and not cool.
You also showed some where around 40 psi on the low side. This is about where and switch turns on / off so you need to get the low side above that.
Thanks on the sniffer from HF
Next time I am in there and can remember I will have to pick on up as I got to keep recharging my system also.
But I know the first few times it was me
Thing is it held a vacuum for a long time but put psi in the system and I got issues
Dave ----
When I first put my system together and charged it think I used 4 or 5 cans.
Based on when the system should of held, 80%? of what R12 was IIRC was like 3 cans but like you the compressor would kick on & off and not cool.
You also showed some where around 40 psi on the low side. This is about where and switch turns on / off so you need to get the low side above that.
Thanks on the sniffer from HF
Next time I am in there and can remember I will have to pick on up as I got to keep recharging my system also.
But I know the first few times it was me
Thing is it held a vacuum for a long time but put psi in the system and I got issues
Dave ----
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 249
Likes: 38
From: Wilmington
No dont put the vacuum pump on the system just add 1 more can.
When I first put my system together and charged it think I used 4 or 5 cans.
Based on when the system should of held, 80%? of what R12 was IIRC was like 3 cans but like you the compressor would kick on & off and not cool.
You also showed some where around 40 psi on the low side. This is about where and switch turns on / off so you need to get the low side above that.
Thanks on the sniffer from HF
Next time I am in there and can remember I will have to pick on up as I got to keep recharging my system also.
But I know the first few times it was me
Thing is it held a vacuum for a long time but put psi in the system and I got issues
Dave ----
When I first put my system together and charged it think I used 4 or 5 cans.
Based on when the system should of held, 80%? of what R12 was IIRC was like 3 cans but like you the compressor would kick on & off and not cool.
You also showed some where around 40 psi on the low side. This is about where and switch turns on / off so you need to get the low side above that.
Thanks on the sniffer from HF
Next time I am in there and can remember I will have to pick on up as I got to keep recharging my system also.
But I know the first few times it was me
Thing is it held a vacuum for a long time but put psi in the system and I got issues
Dave ----
Hey Dave,
You are quite welcome. I hope the sniffer works for you. Thing is on mine re: oil—I am about 2oz down. I know I need to add. Not sure how to do it correctlt, and I am not a fan of those oil charge cans with 1oz of refrig.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 249
Likes: 38
From: Wilmington
One Last Try
FUZZFACE2 suggested I try one more charge, so i did. Low side reading is shown, but wound up at 60. High side I forgot to get on camera, but wound up around 250.
You can get a sense of the sound of the clacking of the compressor here. BUT after I added 2oz of PAG 46, it quieted down a lot. Still, I think the front seal is leaking. Will know more tomorrow.
You can get a sense of the sound of the clacking of the compressor here. BUT after I added 2oz of PAG 46, it quieted down a lot. Still, I think the front seal is leaking. Will know more tomorrow.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,940
Likes: 4,125
From: Angier, NC
I dont like the piston pumps like you are running so I went with the smaller newer type.
It also has been so long since I seen a piston pump run I dont remember how noisy they are, sorry.
If you put a box fan in from of the condenser or hose it down with cool water I bet the psi will come down.
But if you do have a leak it will come down on its own.
Dave ----
It also has been so long since I seen a piston pump run I dont remember how noisy they are, sorry.
If you put a box fan in from of the condenser or hose it down with cool water I bet the psi will come down.
But if you do have a leak it will come down on its own.
Dave ----
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,333
Likes: 296
My 85 has the F6 pump so not sure how much different that is from the (York?) style pump.
Mine requires 52 oz of R12 x .75 conversion rate = 39 oz of 134a.
Is there any loss in the manifold charge line?
That is almost four 12 oz cans of 134a if they empty all the way.
Maybe consider adding some AC dye and a black light to locate any leaks.
Or spray bottle with soapy water?
Mine requires 52 oz of R12 x .75 conversion rate = 39 oz of 134a.
Is there any loss in the manifold charge line?
That is almost four 12 oz cans of 134a if they empty all the way.
Maybe consider adding some AC dye and a black light to locate any leaks.
Or spray bottle with soapy water?
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 249
Likes: 38
From: Wilmington
So far, so Good
Grumpin (on another site) got me thinking: Did i set up the gauges right for a diagnostic reading yesterday? The answer is NO, I concluded. So, I went out this morning and did it properly. About 40ish on the low, 150 on the high. Vid shows it all for the most part. I think I am in spec here.
Charge held. Cooling ran me out of the truck this morning. So far so good. We shall see over the next few days whether it held. Adding the oil really helped quiet things down, but it is still a noisy beast to my liking.
Really, thanks to all here, and FUZZFACE2 for the advice to give it one more try. Let’s hope it holds.
Charge held. Cooling ran me out of the truck this morning. So far so good. We shall see over the next few days whether it held. Adding the oil really helped quiet things down, but it is still a noisy beast to my liking.
Really, thanks to all here, and FUZZFACE2 for the advice to give it one more try. Let’s hope it holds.
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 624
Likes: 55
I have a collection of York A/C compressors and every one of them has a separate oil reservoir NOT a part of the refrigerant system; they have a check/filler plug just like checking a transmission or rear-end.
I even have a couple Yorks that actually have little dipsticks.
Although my FS6 on my 1985 million-mile-plus long-hauling truck finally started leaking at the front shaft seal just a few weeks ago, I was always of the opinion that the Yorks, properly serviced, were the longer-lasting superior compressor.
All that being said, it was my understanding that on these version of trucks, ALL factory-air trucks got the FS6 and the trucks with dealer-installed A/C got the York.
I never hear a peep out of a running FS6; but then, I can barely hear a cannon go off.
When being turned by an electric motor, the York makes a very distinct whickety-whack-whickety-whack that even I can hear; and, I can actually hear the air being sucked in and then pushed out.
I cannot speak for a York; but, with an FS6, unless you submerge the thing in a stock tank and put air to it, you are never going to see a shaft leak no matter how much dish soap you pour on it; and, mine was leaking massively.
Search and read up on this separate oil reservoir on the York compressors.
I even have a couple Yorks that actually have little dipsticks.
Although my FS6 on my 1985 million-mile-plus long-hauling truck finally started leaking at the front shaft seal just a few weeks ago, I was always of the opinion that the Yorks, properly serviced, were the longer-lasting superior compressor.
All that being said, it was my understanding that on these version of trucks, ALL factory-air trucks got the FS6 and the trucks with dealer-installed A/C got the York.
I never hear a peep out of a running FS6; but then, I can barely hear a cannon go off.
When being turned by an electric motor, the York makes a very distinct whickety-whack-whickety-whack that even I can hear; and, I can actually hear the air being sucked in and then pushed out.
I cannot speak for a York; but, with an FS6, unless you submerge the thing in a stock tank and put air to it, you are never going to see a shaft leak no matter how much dish soap you pour on it; and, mine was leaking massively.
Search and read up on this separate oil reservoir on the York compressors.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 249
Likes: 38
From: Wilmington
I have a collection of York A/C compressors and every one of them has a separate oil reservoir NOT a part of the refrigerant system; they have a check/filler plug just like checking a transmission or rear-end.
I even have a couple Yorks that actually have little dipsticks.
Although my FS6 on my 1985 million-mile-plus long-hauling truck finally started leaking at the front shaft seal just a few weeks ago, I was always of the opinion that the Yorks, properly serviced, were the longer-lasting superior compressor.
All that being said, it was my understanding that on these version of trucks, ALL factory-air trucks got the FS6 and the trucks with dealer-installed A/C got the York.
I never hear a peep out of a running FS6; but then, I can barely hear a cannon go off.
When being turned by an electric motor, the York makes a very distinct whickety-whack-whickety-whack that even I can hear; and, I can actually hear the air being sucked in and then pushed out.
I read every bit of this thread and I suspect you have a compressor shaft leak.
I cannot speak for a York; but, with an FS6, unless you submerge the thing in a stock tank and put air to it, you are never going to see a shaft leak no matter how much dish soap you pour on it; and, mine was leaking massively.
Search and read up on this separate oil reservoir on the York compressors.
I even have a couple Yorks that actually have little dipsticks.
Although my FS6 on my 1985 million-mile-plus long-hauling truck finally started leaking at the front shaft seal just a few weeks ago, I was always of the opinion that the Yorks, properly serviced, were the longer-lasting superior compressor.
All that being said, it was my understanding that on these version of trucks, ALL factory-air trucks got the FS6 and the trucks with dealer-installed A/C got the York.
I never hear a peep out of a running FS6; but then, I can barely hear a cannon go off.
When being turned by an electric motor, the York makes a very distinct whickety-whack-whickety-whack that even I can hear; and, I can actually hear the air being sucked in and then pushed out.
I read every bit of this thread and I suspect you have a compressor shaft leak.
I cannot speak for a York; but, with an FS6, unless you submerge the thing in a stock tank and put air to it, you are never going to see a shaft leak no matter how much dish soap you pour on it; and, mine was leaking massively.
Search and read up on this separate oil reservoir on the York compressors.
Longrider,
Thank you for this. There is a little black screw at the top (and bottom) of the compressor. It came with 3oz in it. instructions say with the plug version, to put the remaining oil into the system that my system needs. I have NOT opened that screw because I was not sure it was not under pressure. Are you saying that it is not? If so, i could add some there, BUT the instructions do say I may need to pending on total amount my system says it needs to put the remaining portion into the suction side of the system. Hope that makes sense.
As of today, no leak though and the charge held rather well. Tomorrow may be a different story.