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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

A/C Reinstall

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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 11:45 AM
  #31  
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Both of the r134a ports on my truck have the valve core screwed directly in the port; there may be an old R-12 port lurking in behind/under there; but, it sure doesn't look like any kind of add-on adapter.

My truck did have R-12 as original.

I need to investigate this more thoroughly; I wish I had thought to check it out when the system was empty.

Will the old original R-12 connectors unscrew to be replaced if necessary; if so, then my old R-12 ports may have been completely removed and the r134a screwed in their place.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 11:55 AM
  #32  
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From: Evansville, Indiana
Originally Posted by LongRider
Will the old original R-12 connectors unscrew to be replaced if necessary; if so, then my old R-12 ports may have been completely removed and the r134a screwed in their place.
They are not removable. Furthermore, the replacement components I purchased in 2021 were equipped with original R12 style fittings.

New dryer and high pressure hose



 
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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 11:58 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by diggerrigger

Upside is the new self sealing refrigerant cans. .
I wish my own experiences with the self-sealing cans was good enough that I would trust them to hold.

I have the proper tap for them.

My experience has been that any remaining refrigerant in the can will come spewing out as soon as the tap is removed.

I had a can from Walmart that not a drop would come out when I had it connected to the hose; but, when I finally gave up and removed the tap, every last drop in there spewed out into the elements, all $10.99 of it.


They for certain are not as reliable as Propane Bottle Torch cylinders have been ever since even before I was born; you can screw on the torch, thaw out a lock, then remove the torch and set the can in the closet; thirty years later, you can go to use it again, and every last drop will still be in that cylinder.

Although I have not ever tried it out for dependability, and may never get the chance now as I only have a very few old cans left, all of my can taps have Shraeder Valves where the hose screws on and are supposed to retain a partial can indefinitely if you leave the tap screwed to the can and remove the hose.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 01:01 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by diggerrigger
​​​​​​
EDIT:



.
Do you have a o-ring in the top of that cap? Some of them do have o-rings and sometimes they get lost. You can try stuffing a o-ring up in the cap and snugging it down to help stop the leak.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 01:39 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Do you have a o-ring in the top of that cap? Some of them do have o-rings and sometimes they get lost. You can try stuffing a o-ring up in the cap and snugging it down to help stop the leak.
Mine had no o-rings. Close inspection revealed the probable cause of the leaking. The adapters are internally threaded.


The caps have a threaded protrusion inside that threads down into the adapter.

Shown here I have already drilled a concave relief to modify the original convex contour.


This relief provides a depression for the valve core pin to sit down in instead of the original convex (bump) which apparently was pushing on the pin.

I did try out some o-rings but couldn't find a satisfactory solution.Too thin they shifted around causing the cap to go cocked. Too thick and they didn't allow room to engage the threads well.

​​​​
 
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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 01:43 PM
  #36  
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I had that same problem. I left the cap off and just put a rubber plug over it to keep the dirt out. No more leak(except a very slow one at the compressor shaft seal).
 
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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 03:03 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I had that same problem. I left the cap off and just put a rubber plug over it to keep the dirt out. No more leak(except a very slow one at the compressor shaft seal).

I did a visual inspection of the entire truck today. I see no oil from the compressor anywhere. But I did at the caps. I am not sure if that may be the cause—that the cap is triggering the valve core?

the rest of the system is new, but looked at the condenser closely (which is also new). No oil leak there that I can see. None on the accumulator , and none in the lines. The Evap (also new) when I got a look at it from the cad in the blend door fix, no visible oil.

 
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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 03:03 PM
  #38  
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Someone earlier said their cap was contacting their valve-core.

I would surmise that the thick O-Ring seal is absent, thus allowing that center protrusion in the cap to contact the valve.

The as-delivered seals in most I have investigated are not normal O-rings, but flat-cut rubber washer seals.

You can find assortment boxes of washer seals in both SAE and Communist sizes for sale at Amazon..
 
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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 03:06 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by LongRider
Someone earlier said their cap was contacting their valve-core.

I would surmise that the thick O-Ring seal is absent, thus allowing that center protrusion in the cap to contact the valve.

The as-delivered seals in most I have investigated are not normal O-rings, but flat-cut rubber washer seals.

You can find assortment boxes of washer seals in both SAE and Communist sizes for sale at Amazon..

communist size….LMAO!
 
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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 03:43 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by LongRider
Someone earlier said their cap was contacting their valve-core.

I would surmise that the thick O-Ring seal is absent, thus allowing that center protrusion in the cap to contact the valve.

The as-delivered seals in most I have investigated are not normal O-rings, but flat-cut rubber washer seals.

You can find assortment boxes of washer seals in both SAE and Communist sizes for sale at Amazon..
A round one usually works though. And becomes square over time being jammed in there.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 04:32 PM
  #41  
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You guys bring up the caps pushing on the valve core causing a leak I wounder if that is what is going on with my system?
After about the 3rd or 4th time filling the system, first few were my fault I cant find anything so now will have to check the caps.
Dave ----
 
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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 09:44 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by LongRider
Some soul here suggested I look at the bottom side of the hood right above the compressor; and, sure enough, there it was, a big long oily streak exactly above the space between the compressor and clutch.

I put a brand-shiny-new compressor on there and it hasn't lost nary a drop since...
FWIW, my truck had the same black streak above the (Sanden) compressor clutch. Ran like that for years with only the occasional refill required. I think it's normal for that shaft seal to leak ever so slightly and leave a small dry stain under the hood. I also suspect some of that debris is from the clutch mating surfaces, adhering to a little bit of oil residue. I wouldn't automatically condemn the shaft seal for that. It would be a different story for a large wet stain, though.


Originally Posted by LongRider
Now, this is just my own opinion and may not be anyone else's; no matter how old the truck, it is highly doubtful that you are going to find a leaking evaporator.

Unless you follow dump trucks coming out of the quarry much too closely with #57 Limestone bouncing off the blacktop and through your grill, it is highly doubtful that a condenser will ever develop a leak.
Been there, done that. Had a leak in the evaporator and condenser at different times. The condenser leak set off the sniffer, but not so with the evaporator. Both leaks were confirmed by removing the units, pressurizing with compressed air, and holding them submerged in a tank of water. Neither had any signs of external damage. Both had pinhole leaks possibly caused by internal corrosion, but that's just a guess.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 10:30 PM
  #43  
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I read a big long article concerning those "GoodYear Heaters" mini-split systems and why they have earned the name "GoodYear" = they are only good for about a year.

I got sucked into three of the things and wish I had never seen them.

Anyhow, what the article said was that all those little units, no matter the name on the box, are made in one plant and everything Aluminum is made from recycled Aluminum.

Recycled Aluminum has no flexibility; instead of giving and taking with changing temperatures and pressures, it just develops millions of tiny fractures, which is why with those units you just chase leaks and never get done.

All that being said, it would behoove a person to be leery of anything recycled so far as evaporators, condensers, and the like; as, if it applies to those GoodYear Heaters, it probably applies here as well.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2024 | 10:20 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
You guys bring up the caps pushing on the valve core causing a leak I wounder if that is what is going on with my system?
After about the 3rd or 4th time filling the system, first few were my fault I cant find anything so now will have to check the caps.
Dave ----

I was assuming part of that was the residual from the manifold guage measuring the pressure. I could see some escaping from turning the valve open and close. But I dunno.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2024 | 01:31 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by AmericanSavage
I was assuming part of that was the residual from the manifold guage measuring the pressure. I could see some escaping from turning the valve open and close. But I dunno.
Could be. A good reason to clean up afterward with brake cleaner. I had a problem with a chevy leaking, the factory actually put dye in that system, and you could see the green dye with the naked eye around the service port. But like you said it could have been from servicing the system, so I had to clean it up really good and check back a week later, and it was green again.
 
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