Soaking brake cables
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Chillicothe
Soaking brake cables
So my parking brake cables are a little over a year old and are sticky already. The will set, but I have to smack them with a stick to get them to fully release after pulling the handle.
While I know I should just replace them, they will just end up sticky again and i dont really want to throw money and time into the same thing every year. I was thinking like atf and kerosene. And coiling them up in a bucket for a couple days.
While I know I should just replace them, they will just end up sticky again and i dont really want to throw money and time into the same thing every year. I was thinking like atf and kerosene. And coiling them up in a bucket for a couple days.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2021
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From: Maryland
I just replaced my passenger's side cable, a few months ago. Hopefully it'll last a while.
How are your backing plates? Are they grooved or rusty?
I've read that they'll get grooved and the only solution is to build them up by welding, then grinding them flat.
I would try cleaning all the brake hardware and checking for proper assembly and lubrication. There's obviously a lot of moving parts in there.
How are your backing plates? Are they grooved or rusty?
I've read that they'll get grooved and the only solution is to build them up by welding, then grinding them flat.
I would try cleaning all the brake hardware and checking for proper assembly and lubrication. There's obviously a lot of moving parts in there.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2021
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So my parking brake cables are a little over a year old and are sticky already. The will set, but I have to smack them with a stick to get them to fully release after pulling the handle.
While I know I should just replace them, they will just end up sticky again and i dont really want to throw money and time into the same thing every year. I was thinking like atf and kerosene. And coiling them up in a bucket for a couple days.
While I know I should just replace them, they will just end up sticky again and i dont really want to throw money and time into the same thing every year. I was thinking like atf and kerosene. And coiling them up in a bucket for a couple days.
And, if you could, explain how you installed them?
They are dry lubricated and using any type of lube probably would swell and lock them worse
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Chillicothe
They are NOT to be lubricated, if they are sticking I would look at your adjusters/springs/ assembly in the drums and not the cables, if you could describe where you hit them as well
I smack them along the length of the cable typically the right side cable more than the left
And, if you could, explain how you installed them?
Not sure what you mean here, I replaced them by removing the old ones and installing the new ones.
They are dry lubricated and using any type of lube probably would swell and lock them worse
I smack them along the length of the cable typically the right side cable more than the left
And, if you could, explain how you installed them?
Not sure what you mean here, I replaced them by removing the old ones and installing the new ones.
They are dry lubricated and using any type of lube probably would swell and lock them worse
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2021
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Not even joking its seriously under-done and vital to the operation of the drum brakes.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2021
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Like, did you follow the procedure in the manual where you set the poarking brake pedal in position with a drill bit, then you install the cables, and once you have the rear drums set equally you have to enable the pedal, and then set the pedal to the floor a few times and release, then test operation? Because the pedal is vital in the operaiton of adjusting and releasing them, the pedal i believe yanks the cables back to "home" where its designed to not be tugging on the levers inside the drums.
did you lubricate your sliding surfaces? Did you replace the springs in the drums at all recently? Theres the the little lever that ratchets the adjuster that needs to sit squarely with the adjuster, if it didnt i could see it binding one or both sides enough they wont come back
did you lubricate your sliding surfaces? Did you replace the springs in the drums at all recently? Theres the the little lever that ratchets the adjuster that needs to sit squarely with the adjuster, if it didnt i could see it binding one or both sides enough they wont come back
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From: Northern Ontario
So my parking brake cables are a little over a year old and are sticky already. The will set, but I have to smack them with a stick to get them to fully release after pulling the handle.
While I know I should just replace them, they will just end up sticky again and i dont really want to throw money and time into the same thing every year. I was thinking like atf and kerosene. And coiling them up in a bucket for a couple days.
While I know I should just replace them, they will just end up sticky again and i dont really want to throw money and time into the same thing every year. I was thinking like atf and kerosene. And coiling them up in a bucket for a couple days.
You must be in the salty rust belt, same as here... I’m surprised though, usually they last a few yrs before seizing up. I try to engage them periodically (at home if not done in awhile - in case they won’t retract), just to keep them moving.
Can’t hurt to try and throw them in a pail. But, I’m not sure that will work. Usually the rusty cable expands and gets stuck inside part of the sheath somewhere. Or starts breaking - strands of cable break and start sticking into the sheath.
No reason not to try and lube them, imo.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Chillicothe
You must be in the salty rust belt, same as here... I’m surprised though, usually they last a few yrs before seizing up. I try to engage them periodically (at home if not done in awhile - in case they won’t retract), just to keep them moving.
Can’t hurt to try and throw them in a pail. But, I’m not sure that will work. Usually the rusty cable expands and gets stuck inside part of the sheath somewhere. Or starts breaking - strands of cable break and start sticking into the sheath.
No reason not to try and lube them, imo.
Can’t hurt to try and throw them in a pail. But, I’m not sure that will work. Usually the rusty cable expands and gets stuck inside part of the sheath somewhere. Or starts breaking - strands of cable break and start sticking into the sheath.
No reason not to try and lube them, imo.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2003
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On a set of cables I had that were stuck solid I pulled them off of the truck and chucked one end into a drill and added lots of PB Blaster. Turn the drill in direction that tightens the twist on the cable instead of loosening it.
After about 1/2 hour in the drill they did loosen up about 50% but no where near where they had to be to be reused. End result was new cables needed but these were old and neglected.
Maybe if yours aren't too bad you can get them loosened up that way. Just an idea...
After about 1/2 hour in the drill they did loosen up about 50% but no where near where they had to be to be reused. End result was new cables needed but these were old and neglected.
Maybe if yours aren't too bad you can get them loosened up that way. Just an idea...
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