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Soaking brake cables

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Old Jun 4, 2024 | 06:00 AM
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From: Chillicothe
Soaking brake cables

So my parking brake cables are a little over a year old and are sticky already. The will set, but I have to smack them with a stick to get them to fully release after pulling the handle.
While I know I should just replace them, they will just end up sticky again and i dont really want to throw money and time into the same thing every year. I was thinking like atf and kerosene. And coiling them up in a bucket for a couple days.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2024 | 06:51 AM
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I just replaced my passenger's side cable, a few months ago. Hopefully it'll last a while.
How are your backing plates? Are they grooved or rusty?
I've read that they'll get grooved and the only solution is to build them up by welding, then grinding them flat.
I would try cleaning all the brake hardware and checking for proper assembly and lubrication. There's obviously a lot of moving parts in there.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2024 | 07:21 AM
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It is all new in the last 2 years. Down to the wheel cylinders even.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2024 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Mudsport96
So my parking brake cables are a little over a year old and are sticky already. The will set, but I have to smack them with a stick to get them to fully release after pulling the handle.
While I know I should just replace them, they will just end up sticky again and i dont really want to throw money and time into the same thing every year. I was thinking like atf and kerosene. And coiling them up in a bucket for a couple days.
They are NOT to be lubricated, if they are sticking I would look at your adjusters/springs/ assembly in the drums and not the cables, if you could describe where you hit them as well

And, if you could, explain how you installed them?

They are dry lubricated and using any type of lube probably would swell and lock them worse
 
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Old Jun 4, 2024 | 07:52 AM
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From: Chillicothe
Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
They are NOT to be lubricated, if they are sticking I would look at your adjusters/springs/ assembly in the drums and not the cables, if you could describe where you hit them as well
I smack them along the length of the cable typically the right side cable more than the left

And, if you could, explain how you installed them?
Not sure what you mean here, I replaced them by removing the old ones and installing the new ones.

They are dry lubricated and using any type of lube probably would swell and lock them worse
Answers in the quote
 
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Old Jun 4, 2024 | 08:21 AM
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I was referring to lubricating the area where the brake shoes contact the backing plate.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2024 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Soup bean
I was referring to lubricating the area where the brake shoes contact the backing plate.
Thats incredibly important Not even joking its seriously under-done and vital to the operation of the drum brakes.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2024 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Mudsport96
Answers in the quote
Like, did you follow the procedure in the manual where you set the poarking brake pedal in position with a drill bit, then you install the cables, and once you have the rear drums set equally you have to enable the pedal, and then set the pedal to the floor a few times and release, then test operation? Because the pedal is vital in the operaiton of adjusting and releasing them, the pedal i believe yanks the cables back to "home" where its designed to not be tugging on the levers inside the drums.

did you lubricate your sliding surfaces? Did you replace the springs in the drums at all recently? Theres the the little lever that ratchets the adjuster that needs to sit squarely with the adjuster, if it didnt i could see it binding one or both sides enough they wont come back
 
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Old Jun 5, 2024 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mudsport96
So my parking brake cables are a little over a year old and are sticky already. The will set, but I have to smack them with a stick to get them to fully release after pulling the handle.
While I know I should just replace them, they will just end up sticky again and i dont really want to throw money and time into the same thing every year. I was thinking like atf and kerosene. And coiling them up in a bucket for a couple days.

You must be in the salty rust belt, same as here... I’m surprised though, usually they last a few yrs before seizing up. I try to engage them periodically (at home if not done in awhile - in case they won’t retract), just to keep them moving.

Can’t hurt to try and throw them in a pail. But, I’m not sure that will work. Usually the rusty cable expands and gets stuck inside part of the sheath somewhere. Or starts breaking - strands of cable break and start sticking into the sheath.

No reason not to try and lube them, imo.

 
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Old Jun 5, 2024 | 05:00 PM
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From: Chillicothe
Originally Posted by JJF20
You must be in the salty rust belt, same as here... I’m surprised though, usually they last a few yrs before seizing up. I try to engage them periodically (at home if not done in awhile - in case they won’t retract), just to keep them moving.

Can’t hurt to try and throw them in a pail. But, I’m not sure that will work. Usually the rusty cable expands and gets stuck inside part of the sheath somewhere. Or starts breaking - strands of cable break and start sticking into the sheath.

No reason not to try and lube them, imo.
Yeah I used them all the time as I have a 5 speed. So every time I park it was used. Illinois so yeah rust belt.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2024 | 08:14 PM
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On a set of cables I had that were stuck solid I pulled them off of the truck and chucked one end into a drill and added lots of PB Blaster. Turn the drill in direction that tightens the twist on the cable instead of loosening it.

After about 1/2 hour in the drill they did loosen up about 50% but no where near where they had to be to be reused. End result was new cables needed but these were old and neglected.

Maybe if yours aren't too bad you can get them loosened up that way. Just an idea...
 
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