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Anybody have a problem getting their emergency brake to function properly?
I've got a '68 F250 that I restored a couple years ago. I completely replaced all rear brake hardware in the process but don't have a a parking brake now. I've tightened the adjusting nut on the equilizer, but that has done no good. I've taken one of the rear wheels/drums off and watched the brake action, reinstalled the drum and it seems tight when the parking brake is applied, but once I put it all back together, the thing won't hold with power. Is there a simple solution? Have I missed something?
One problem I alsway have it the equalizer tends to flop to one side or another due to unequal braking pressure. Is this happening to you?
Your drums should barely rub if adjusted properly. Even if it's a little off, it can make a big difference.
The cables can stretch over time, also.
I used a set of semi-universal cables when i did mine last year.
They are cut to length and the ends clamp onto the cables, so getting the length right is easy. I also sude some big ty-wraps to keep the cables in place on the equilizer.
I recently parted out a '73 IH truck and it had one continous cable with a horse shoe shaped equalizer so it would never have one side too long. I guess the risk on this style is that if the cable broke, you'd lose all e-brake operation, but that is a small risk for the convenience it served. I wish I had kept that part.
I would like to point out the parking brakes were never meant to hold the truck against its own power. With enough torque you can easily overcome a drum brake.
It is meant for holding a static load and meeting the Federal specs for that year. I think it was stopping the truck within 45 feet from 20 mph.
It should hold it from maybe 3rd gear, no way I would expect it to hold against granny 1st or second without spinning a tire.
Thanks guys. Turns out that I hadn't turned the star adjuster out far enough, hence the pads weren't pressed out enough from the start. I determined this after slipping the drums off without any resistance. I tightened everything up and now I have a decent brake...should be enough to get inspected without hassles.
Hey Jim, after you pass inspection you might want to back off those star adjusters a little. When I adjusted mine to rub the rear drums, I noticed that under a panic stop the rear wants to lock up early and swing the bed around into the adjacent lane (lotsa fun).
Originally posted by BB Hey Jim, after you pass inspection you might want to back off those star adjusters a little. When I adjusted mine to rub the rear drums, I noticed that under a panic stop the rear wants to lock up early and swing the bed around into the adjacent lane (lotsa fun).
Barry
Good idea Barry. The brakes worked fine before I made the latest adjustments. Now I can tell the responsiveness/sensitivity in the brake pedal is much greater now (barely touch the pedal and I feel the rears grab). I could see how this might be dangerous in a panic situation.
Also need to keep in mind that drum brakes are self-energizing, when going forward. This in turn means they are self-DEenergizing when going in reverse. So it is not uncommon to have your e-brake hold fine if the front of the truck is headed downhill while not holding very well at all if the rear of the truck is headed downhill.