So I'm not finding much about getting a front off -road style bumper that doesn't require a real expensive intercooler relocation- I suppose SOMEONE has done it, but maybe this is another thing I will have to do myself if I want a winch, and I don't want a "cradel" where you take on/off the winch when needed. Yes I put this in the off road section but crickets.

 

OK so after studying this problem all night- I have come to the conclusion that a winch and bumper is not the best idea I've had in a while- I have an old 67 IH Scout 800 with a 12000lb warn winch and that Scout is built for hardcore rock crawling- and at this time in life- yup I think them days are pretty much done. And ya know in all them years rock crawling, I think I used that winch once and in reality, we could have maybe done it without the winch lol. On to the next keyboard problem LOL.

 

Add A carrier and put the winch on the Tow Haul Hitch. Use a portable battery / 1000 amp jump
starter to operate it.

Add a couple of loose 3' treated 4X4's into the bed to lock the truck wheels to the ground while
you drag stuff if needed. It will work well. You then put the winch back in the Truck bed when done.

Usually the winch is only needed for a pull at a time for days. You can plug the jumper charger into the box.

I pulled a stuck UTV out of a flooding-mud location in a Timber Creek Crossing with one.

 

You don't necessarily need to have a 12,000 lb winch. A 9000 lb. will hang the truck up under the bridge or pull a yard shed across to a new location.
... 3000 lb. ... pulled the UTV out of the flood. Many add mud flaps if they tow haul lots of Yard stuff to cut out a lot of crap flying. I used my 9000 winch 9 x one
summer, down trees, moving yard shed, dragging neighbors Silverado up out of his ditch. It mostly just sits in its Warn Bumper. Haha

Naturally hitch low on the tow, or lifting the rear wheels could happen. Having a higher setting of the vehicle would also help. That naturally occurs most of the time.

 

3.7 L. though on one of my work trucks. 9000 Warn Winch system. Non EcoBoost works best for front winch naturally. The Warn system is mounted directly to the frame of the truck. Very tough. Extra Steel added also
and fasteners.

 

I have a Carrier from Harbor Freight to mount on my Turbos. So far haven't needed its brute stuff thought.

 

I just cut a random hitch to fit between the frame rails and welded it in. I also ran a hot cable to the rear of the truck. I can now use it on the front or the rear.

 

Did you run the rear cables straight from the battery and what ga wire did you use?

 

Can I use this 2 AGW to run from the front of my 150 to the rear?

 

Number 2 at that length is good for about 125-130A. Check your winch draw, that's is probably pushing it. That said I use my 20 foot 2 gauge jumpers to run the 9000lb winch on my trailer' quite a few short duration pulls with no issues. 2 different 1/2 ton pickups pulled onto trailer, nothing like being stuck. For serious winching you should have a lot larger cable, and a little "overbuild" doesn't hurt when the dodo hits the fan!. Remember you only have to buy one, the frame makes a good ground cable. Jim
I could be a little low on amperage being that is welding cable.

 

Howdy Jim I guess the only thing is if I use a 4 AWG connector I have to have the same connector for the winch, jumper cables and everything else- right?

 

ok I think I found some connectors - Now if I recall I can go from 4 ga (battery power) to 2 ga (actual winch) and be ok because 2 AGW is what's on the winch internal connections

 

AWG= bigger number is smaller wire. The 2 ga would probably work on the front (short run). If you want to run to the rear I would recommend minimum 0 or even 20 ( 2 ought, not twenty ga) The smaller wire will work to a point but will build heat on hard use, this can be hard on the wire obviously and also the winch motor. The welding wire you're looking at is a plus, really good wire but pricey. Another good way to bring amp draw down if you have enough reach is a ****** block, but it sounds like you probably knew that. Use the best end connecters you can find and soldered over crimped is a plus also. Jim

 

Man this is getting expensive- all the vids I see these guys are using 2 AWG battery cables as a perm solution to the rear winch deal-

 

I get by with my 2ga jumpers for light use but a truck stuck in mud is a whole different story Hate to see you set yourself up for it to let you down when you need it most. You could try asking tech support for the winch you are using what they recommend for a 20 ft run. the longer run to the rear is what really changes things. You probably have more actual winch experience than I with your Scout , but I did 40 years railroad signaling. I know what a pain high resistance can be. Jim