Looking for some advice. I’ve got a pretty rough cab for my 79 F150 project and trying to decide if it’s worth saving. I know a lot of people here would probably suggest to look for a new cab. I got this project because I wanted to learn and I’ve never welded or done any body work so it’s definitely something I was looking forward to, just having some doubts looking it over. I do have a good buddy who is a welder and he’s going to give me a hand.

Just looking for some advice from some people who have maybe been here before. Time is not a problem, I’m not trying to finish it up as soon as possible or anything. It just keeps me busy. I’d just hate to pour massive amounts of time in and it look about the same when I’m through with it haha. Is it worth working through this or should I look for a little cleaner can that needs less work?

Needs at least 2 floor pans, 2 cab corners, 1 cab mount, and some patches here and there. More to come I’m sure.

 

Looks like you have the typical rust areas. It's just metal, cut out the old- weld in the new.
What kills these cabs is rot around the windows, inside the cowl, and roof. Repairing those areas can get a bit more challenging than floor pans and cab mounts.

It can be a lot of work to do it correctly. But if you have the time & determination to finish a project, it's a good way to gain experience.
If you don't have those things, it's a good way to get frustrated.

 

I'm doing more cab repair than a guy really should if you wanna check out my thread. In my case it was my first truck so it's worth it to save the original cab.

videos on my youtube as I go along

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1725169-78-f150-rcsb-4-spd-big-block-build-thread.html

 

Awesome, I am subscribed! I’ll watch through it today. I see just from browsing your thread you got panels from different places. Anywhere you’d suggest sticking to? That may be mentioned in your video, so I might answer my own question.

 

That's a big project starting with no experience. Hopefully the roof does not have rust. Usually better to start on small rust repair projects like a just floor pan, see how you like it and work your way up. There is nothing glamorous about rust repair. Hopefully your welder buddy has experience with sheet metal. You'll need to get setup with welder & gas, welding accessories, various metal cutting tools, grinders, clamps, etc.
You can tie up a lot of money in purchasing panels plus shipping and all so proceed with caution because once you commit to the job you want to be able to follow through to completion. If you are a motivated Git'R'Done work ethic kind of person then go for it. From a monetary point and end result quality perspective, far better to get another rust free cab. Even with that you will have plenty of work to keep you busy. If you go for another cab, get one rust free from an arid climate. Its worth shipping cost if too far to pickup in person. Good Luck!

 

A termite-guy will go around a home with a screwdriver probing for a soft spot in structural materials.

Now, a thought here, just thinking out loud, you might take a small ball peen hammer, and pretend you are the Termite-guy, and simply go around your cab above the windshield and rain gutters tapping and watching / feeling for a Soft-Spot. _ _ or not.

I'm waist deep, from the head down, media blasting my inner fender wells. Fortunately no cancer, just surface rust.
We all have a fit trying to sandblast media successfully. That cab NEEDS MEDIA-BLASTING. hahaha.

I just learned a trick for us hobbyist Sandblaster's, and that is - _ _ to aerate and fluff your media before each use.
I tried this idea the other day, because everything I tried was in vain. Simply pouring the blasting media back and forth between two buckets does the trick.
I have a Sandy-Jet media bucket and blasting gun. It will cut rust, but not heavy-scale rust, which must be chipped first.

Personally, I did a Cab-Swap from a badly shook-apart cab (ex-logging service truck) to a non-cancer 2wd cab 4-door.

Your welding bud will probably suggest .026 ga mig wire, and use easy-grind wire.
A good friend and retired auto body guy says to use Panel-Bond where applicable instead of tedious welding.

Here in the far northern reaches of Calif., I see good solid, non-cancer standard cabs go thru Pick-n-Pull almost each month.
P-n-Pull price for a cab may be well worth the $$$ to have it shipped by independent.
So, then would $1,500 shipping and $400 for a solid cab base be worth the money ? _ _ i'd say yes, if you are keeping the rig.

But, I'm like you, and I enjoy the challenge of doing it myself.

What to do ?