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Is BCP by itself, usually enough to run say 1500ish Watts off an inverter, or do I need to activate an idle kick up?
Also, in 23 BBLB, it seems SEIC is tied in with PTO, and increases trans pressure, which I have no need for
just looking for more "amps".
Is BCP by itself, usually enough to run say 1500ish Watts off an inverter, or do I need to activate an idle kick up?
Also, in 23 BBLB, it seems SEIC is tied in with PTO, and increases trans pressure, which I have no need for
just looking for more "amps".
Measure system voltage, at idle, with the inverter running with a load. If system voltage sags and stays down below 13.6 or so when the inverter is loaded, you need to idle up.
As far as SEIC bumping trans pressure for PTO operation, the PTO circuit is separate from the SEIC so I doubt the trans pressure would be elevated unless the PTO circuit is activated too.
to churn 1500 watts you need straight access to battery terminals or at least 4ga wire if there’s any distance.
BCP is system that ups RPM to maintain voltage. It runs automatically, and is different than the SEIC, that uses various "switched" resistors, to up RPM
for PTO or other high amp requirements. And yes, I have high quality (USA made, fine strand) 2 guage welding wire straight off drivs side batt, to bed, and then out back to trailer winch (if/when)
Originally Posted by B-ManFX4
Measure system voltage, at idle, with the inverter running with a load. If system voltage sags and stays down below 13.6 or so when the inverter is loaded, you need to idle up.
As far as SEIC bumping trans pressure for PTO operation, the PTO circuit is separate from the SEIC so I doubt the trans pressure would be elevated unless the PTO circuit is activated too.
Understood and can do all that. Was just wondering if anyone knew up front, what the base 23 alt can put out @ 1200 RPM, which is supposedly what the BCP can up RPM too, to maintain voltage.
So to finalize. The 2500W inverter I first got was a POS. It kept shutting off, even though it's own display, said it was only
putting out about 1650 watts. It finally blew its internal fuses (I suspect, as there was a large quick flash inside, and then it was dead).
I spent a decent amount more money on a 3000W inverter. Works fine and it does raise idle up to the 1200 RPM.
Voltage guage on stock screen never dropped below 14 volts, so I think I am good.
You can plan on 100 amps per 1000 watts, not factoring efficiency
Understood. Factory alt rated @ 195 amps I believe. Inverter claims 90% efficiency, but
that is "Chinese" ratings, so I'd guess much less.
Using this setup at all will only be 3 times a year, at the most. If I was doing it all the time,
I would look into battery upgrades, or even a second alt.
I figured I was already running the winch wiring, to rear of truck, in case my offroad rig craps out.
These days, with the overall cost (and I'm getting OLD ), I just don't go as often as I used to.
I have also started doing track days with a 21 GT500, so the inverter/compressor could be used with some air jacks I got,
air lines for tires (if I don't feel like getting over to paddock), or even the rare occasion I need more than the 400W factory inverter
AC power. Again, all that only if I have an issue at the track.
I may eventually look into an enclosed car/toy trailer, with living quarters and/or "shop" in the front. Hence one of the reasons
I got a newer SD.
When the first inverter crapped out almost immediately, I started thinking that way.
But are the '"quiet" 2000Wers going to cut it either? I see Honda has an ultra-quiet
2200, but then you still have to deal with fuel on something you use 3 times a year.
I already drain the fuel out of carb/bowl on my other gens, EVERY time I use them (PIA).
Even with "marine" Stabil, I've had long term issues of ethanol gas starting to eat the "bowls"
on my Edelbrocks.
The latest inv never went below 13.1 volts. And that was even before BCP eventually raised idle (to 1200 RPM, as advertised), the "dash" volt meter never went below 14 volts.
Max amps on compressor was right around 15.