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Old May 10, 2024 | 10:27 PM
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Caliper Replacement Question

When replacing the driver’s front caliper, how do I keep fluid from leaking all over the place. I’ve got a small locking pliers that I could use to clamp the line but I’m worried I would damage the line.

I’ve also got some plugs in my MityVac kit but I don’t think they will work with the adapter on the end of the line.

I will be flushing the whole system post install so maybe I just let it drip as I swap calipers. If I did this I’d likely fill the brake fluid reservoir up first just in case.

I’ve never done this job before and greatly appreciate any and all guidance.
 
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Old May 10, 2024 | 10:49 PM
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If you got a valve stem for a wheel laying around you can push it in the hole and block it off.
 
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Old May 10, 2024 | 11:07 PM
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You can use a bolt and nut through the hole, use old copper washers if you have some. I use a clamp but it has round jaws.
 
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Old May 10, 2024 | 11:09 PM
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Or just wrap it tight with some electrical tape it it will slow the leak down enough while you change it.
 
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Old May 11, 2024 | 07:39 AM
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I just place a pan under it and hurry. It’s a slow, annoying type of drip.

For me I tend to follow this process:
—Break the hose bolt loose so it’s barely snug before removing the caliper.
—Have new caliper nearby.
—Remove caliper.
—Remove Hose bolt which should be easy to bump loose with a ratchet. (or I’d probably use my small Dewalt nowadays lol)
—Swap new caliper over and hand start to truck.
—Install hose. (Thus minimizing leak time)
—Finish install.

But I’ve had things go sideways in the process and not had any issues with losing all the fluid.

Do not crimp the hose. Also don’t let the caliper hang from the hose. The hoses can break internally and cause issues by acting like a check valve. I use old S hooks from a bungee cord to hang the calipers from the springs on cars with struts when doing brake work. Zip ties also work. Seems like on the truck I lay it on the leaf spring, but it’s been a while.

Note, I now check all the piston rubbers for good seal before installing a new caliper. Have had issues with them not being good from the reman process in the past. The last one I put on my Scion I actually removed the rubber, covered sealing areas with dielectric grease, then reinstalled.
 
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Old May 11, 2024 | 07:55 AM
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Get a brake pedal depressor or a stack of bricks. Set the pedal at 50 percent and you’re good. Have left my truck for hours set up like this and the fluid stays in the system.
 
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Old May 11, 2024 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by RigCity
Get a brake pedal depressor or a stack of bricks. Set the pedal at 50 percent and you’re good. Have left my truck for hours set up like this and the fluid stays in the system.
I hate to be dumb but doesn’t depressing the brake pedal force fluid through the brake line?
 
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Old May 11, 2024 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by djed
I hate to be dumb but doesn’t depressing the brake pedal force fluid through the brake line?

It pushes the master cylinder piston out and the rest of the fluid in the master cylinder cannot escape!
 
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Old May 11, 2024 | 02:45 PM
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It looks like others have touched on it. I really don't see the problem of the fluid dripping out as long as the master cylinder doesn't empty. I happen to like changing my brake fluid when I swap out pads.
 
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Old May 14, 2024 | 09:10 PM
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Thanks for everyone’s input. I learned a lot.

Still waiting on the rotors but the calipers arrived. Strange that the Motorcraft part numbers don’t match.






 
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Old May 15, 2024 | 03:10 AM
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The 5403 is the base Ford part number for the caliper. That's the important one.

All the other numbers are internal control numbers like which foundry cast them, design revision, specific mold used, etc even time of day it was cast. Things that should not matter to the consumer.
 
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Old May 15, 2024 | 12:05 PM
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Thank you. Does it matter that the OD of the new caliper pistons is about 1/8” smaller than the original?

Interestingly the piston wall thickness is substantially thicker than the originals.
 
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Old May 16, 2024 | 01:31 AM
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That's a neat observation, thanks! Can I pester you for pics?

I wasn't in the room but I'd expect those differences are intentional, due to design revisions. A revised part is gonna be better, or they'd never go to the expense of messing with it.

The best we can go by is part number as sold, and there's a lot of regulatory compliance that protects us.
 
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Old May 16, 2024 | 09:55 AM
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Let it drain out into a container of your choosing. Don't clamp the hose or you'll run a chance of damaging the flexible part of the hose. You want to replace all the brake fluid anyway. When you're finished with the hardware installation, do a system flush and be done.
 
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Old May 16, 2024 | 01:15 PM
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Auto parts store. They sell packages of variously sized (and colored) nylon vacuum caps. There will be one in there you can shove into the brake line fitting hole with the butt end of the nylon cap to plug it. No clamping on the rubber flex hose. That will damage it.
 
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