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The hub doesn't look bad at all, just really hard to turn. This is just the pass side, but once done the driver's side will get everything changed as well.
My truck has these plugs on the backside of each inner fender liner, I'm guessing they're for the front ABS. It was built in Mar 98, the axles is dated Feb 28, 1998. The new hubs came with the sensors, any harm in connecting them? Or will it just confuse something?
If the stub aren't worn and the new bearing fits like it should then I wouldn't worry about the dust shield from your second pic. I'd just try tapping the axle seal in your first pic back in and see how she fits.
Not sure about harm in hooking up the abs connector, but unless the truck left the factory with 4 wheel abs hooking the connector to a sensor won't change that.
Those axles and needle bearings look just fine. The axles will have a lot of movement in them until the unit bearing clips and lock out hubs are installed. I wouldn't worry with the outer dust seals on the axle shaft sunless your constantly driving in mud up over the axles. They have another main seal down inside the axle.
My truck is a rear abs only also and it has those plugs on the inner fenders as well. I never hooked up front abs hub wires to them I just always cut the wires off flush at the sensor in the hub. That's what I would reccomend doing.
How about the dust seals on the back side of the hub carrier (or whatever that big piece with the ball joints is called). That dust seal is also shot. Is there anything else in there that could be a problem?
How about the dust seals on the back side of the hub carrier (or whatever that big piece with the ball joints is called). That dust seal is also shot. Is there anything else in there that could be a problem?
Is that video with the new bearing installed or is the axle just hanging in the knuckle by the dust seal? If the bearing is installed then you might have a problem. If no then I wouldn't worry much about it. That's the long side axle hanging on nothing but the side gears in the differential, it's going to show some movement like that without support.
The video was without the hub installed. Once you figure out how everything goes together it's not really hard to replace. The hardest part was figuring out the right combo of socket, short extension and breaker bar to loosen those four nuts that hold the assembly in the knuckle. Again, heat is your friend. Cleaning and lubricating all the threads make reassembly that much easier, especially the second and third time. Initially I forgot a spacer behind the hub, then put the dust shield on backward - and that time I got far enough along to have just re-installed the snap ring. I don't have the proper tool to remove it easily. Well, I do now.
And finally, these things come in two flavors, one for aluminum wheels and one for steel. At least I think that's the difference as the wheel studs on this thing are too short for my aluminum wheels. Fortunately, or not depending on your viewpoint, I bought two of them. I switched the studs from the old one to the other new one. And tomorrow, for the fourth time, I'll replace my hub assembly.
Not a steel wheel vs aluminum wheel thing. That hub is for a dually which has the big adapter that bolts to it then the wheel bolts to it. They have shorter studs on them. They either sent you wrong one for a dually or you ordered for dually by mistake.
Yup. That would be it. Well, it seems to fit otherwise, so please tell me that's the only difference between the SRW and DRW e99 front hubs.
As far as I am aware everything is the same besides the studs. If you got it all together fine just studs are to short then that should conform everything else is the same. I'd swap studs and run it.
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