Hello from a satisfied '93 Ranger p/u owner, 185k miles and going strong....until yesterday.

When leaving work my engine would not turn over. At first I thought I may be out of gas, as I was running close to empty (I know...I know....). I put a few gallons in but the problem remained. I checked obvious electrical connections, and everything seemed in order. The fuel shut-off switch was "pushed in" correctly.

I work for a Caterpillar dealership and got a technician to help me troubleshoot a little. We determined the fuel pump was not making any noise and further there was no fuel getting up to the engine from the tank - opened the "spray valve" on top of the engine and there was no fuel there. All the fuses seemed to be in order and in the electrical box under the hood (on the driver's side) there was a "clicking" that per the technician indicated it was successfully trying to send power to the fuel pump.

The technician - who is gone for the holidays - indicated to me he was fairly confident the problem was with the fuel pump, although some electrical testing could confirm whether power was getting back to the pump or not.

Here is the issue: I have the mechanical ability to change the fuel pump myself (and need to drive to Florida in two days), I think I have time. I am not experienced at performing the electrical testing to confirm whether the problem is with a connection near the pump or is with the pump. I would greatly appreciate someone's input, telling me a straightforward way to check this out OR can point me into a direction that shows me (a webpage or something similar).

Many thanks for any input....

Barry

 

The two things I would do is see if you have power at the connection to the pump and apply power directly to the pump and see if it runs. If you do need to change the pump it is much easier to pull the bed off, dropping the tank is a pain. I have a diagram from my 1989 Ranger which should be similar to yours. I need you email address, I'll drop you an email so you can contact me.

 

Thank you Ken. Unfortunately I plan on dropping the tank (pulling off the bed is a bit beyond my comfort zone and capabilities). A while back I purchased a Haynes Repair Manual and intend to use it as my guide (as I've used it successfully for some other minor operations). My email address is "barrybrandes" at hotmail in case you want to send the diagram (sorry if I just violated the "no email address" rule).

I assume I'd use a voltimeter or some such device to check power to the pump, no? I'm hopeful I can persuade a friend who knows something about that to drop by and help me check it, but just in case....

A couple things about dropping the tank: I assume from reading the Haynes guide I can get by w/ basic tools. Are you aware if I will need any specialized tools? Also, I believe the fuel lines are flexible, no?

Many thanks.

 

....by the way, Ken, I just noticed the technical post 883207(includes one on removing the bed). It seems there are "6 bolts and 1 connector" to remove, takes about 30 minutes.

After sending my last post and thinking about it and reading that post, it sure sounds a bit easier, like you said. Are specialty tools required for this operation?

Thanks.

 

The bolts for the bed are Torx so you will need a bit to fit those and I bet the connectors for the line to the pump will require a tool. You can ask at the parts store and they should also have the tool. If you do drop the tank empty it first.

 

If you have the kind of fuel filter that needs the special tool to disconnect the fuel lines (some Rangers have them, some don't), then I agree with Ken, you will probably need the same tool to disconnect the fuel line(s) from the pump assembly.

Ford Manual for '93 Ranger shows the wire that provides power to the pump itself is Pink with Black Stripe (PK/BK), so that is the wire in the pump's electrical connector (there are 4 wires altogether) that you want to check for ~12v power. Make sure you touch the other test lead to a good ground! Also, the lead where the same PK/BK wire actually connects to the pump is where you can apply 12v to see if the pump runs before you go and take it out of the assembly to replace it.

If the pump runs, then you probably have a bad relay,a bad inertia switch, or an open circuit between the relay and the pump.

 

My Haynes manual suggests several tools (only one of which I found at a local NAPA)...quoting from the manual:

- spring lock coupling tool (or equivalent) ... found that
- quick disconnect tool kit ... not sure if same as above; not found
- lock ring wrench (to disconnect the unit assembly from the fuel tank) ... not found but I think I can get by without

On 4.0 L trucks the manual says there is a particular way to disconnect and reconnect the lines, though I didn't pay close attention to that part (mine is 3.0 L).

I will definitely check the wiring before I replace the pump itself, I luckily found somebody to help who knows how and can teach me.

Thanks.

 

If you go to the Hated www.autozone.com they also have the Haynes manual online. Go to repair info I think it is. If you don't have the book or want to pay $12 it's quick and easy
Kevin

 

I know that this ids going to sound stupid But here goes anyway. Wife's 95 explorer smae thing go out to leave and nothing. Let the car sit for three days while I found time to mess with it. Went to rental place rented tow dolly to take it to friends garage pulled the relay out reinstalled sme one and bang car started and has been fine for months Did you check the relay under the hood?? I was ready to tow the vehicle 25 miles to fix and thats all it was



Chris

 

tenaciousd, Im assuming from your post that when you say the "engine would not turn over", you mean the engine cranks but shows no hint of starting. If this is the case and you suspect there is a problem with fuel delivery, why dont you take off the air duct tube going into the air intake, spray some air intake cleaner in there while working the throttle plate, resecure the tube then try and start the motor. If it starts (or tries to start) and then dies soon after, then a fuel problem is most likely the problem.

If it is a fuel problem, try finding the relay as someone else suggested here and inspect or replace it. If the relay is fine, there are other courses of action you can take before you should go thru the trouble of dropping the tank or removing the bed. Dont make more work for yourself than you need to. Do a little more research on this matter. Haynes et al.