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Busa!!... I'm back.... hope you all had some good holidays. WEll, my problem went away and it has been approximately 5000 miles and now it is back. This time it finally threw a code so I took it down to Autozone where they read it and told me it is a torque converter code. The young man did not give me the actual code, but i do plan on going back today and getting him to read it again so i can get it.
hmmm, torque converter code??? That's a new one to me. I did not know there was a sensor on your torque converter to tell you when it was going bad.
Try this.
Put yourself on nice dry warm pavement. Press down on your brake pedal and floor your gas pedal. You have to be in a spot were your tire doesn't start to spin. Your engine should rev to 1800 rpm and no farther. Your truck should learch forward a bit but not move. The tires should not be spinning either, if they are, find a more sticky area so they don't, or apply the emergency brake as well.
If your rpms rev higher than 1800 rpm, then your stall converter clutches are slipping. If it doesn't, then your torque converter is fine. I'm no expert but i've been researching stall converters for some time now because I want to upgrade to a Stallion 2600 rpm stall converter.
If your converter is bad and it's not under warranty then purchase a performance Stallionn 2600 rpm staller. You get faster, snappier acceleration and overal superior performance.
will give this a try today... talked to a transmission shop today, suppose to take in Friday for a looksee.... I never would have dreamed the torque convertor would act like this or cause this type of behavior.... learn something new every day... will keep you updated on what i find out, thanks for all of the help.
Act WHAT way. You didn't say that it was "acting up", you just said it threw a code. Do you feel any slippage?? or does it feel normal. Anyway, the above test will tell you if your slipping or not. If you plan on keeping your truck for a while, get a higher stall torque converter, 2600 rpm AND an aftermarket tranny cooler. If your converter DID go, it's probably from excessive heat. When was the last time you had your tranny fluid flushed and filled?
Busa, yeah this is the same problem that started a few months ago. Rough idle at stop lights, surging kinda. We thought maybe it was the fuel filter or idle speed problem. I done complete tuneup, wires and all and raised idle, but never fixed problem, even replaced fuel cap thinking maybe somehow it was not sealing properly and causing the problem. The problem just seemed to go away on it's on over time. I was relieved and to the point of believing that it was just some really bad gas after all. But then on the way home yesterday, really surged hard when stopped at a stop light, that is when the service engine light came on. First time it has ever came on, so in a way releived now i know where to look and fix the problem. As far as service 0n the tranny, only one time and that was just an oil change, no filter or anything. So i may be fixing to pay for that lack of maintaince! I just never thought of a converter causeing a stall or engine surge type problem, i always associated rough idle or surging to motor problems not tranny..... like i said, learn something new everyday!
tricky one. I suppose that it's possible that while your sitting at a light, your stall converter can slip and cause your engine idle to increase or run rough. It's not something I see or hear of everyday but I guess it's possible. This guy is very helpful, I would call and talk to him first. He is the most knowledgeable guy I've ever spoke with while doing my torque converter upgrade research.
click here http://www.converter.com/stallion.htm and call or email him with your problem. He can tell you if your converter is bad. This guy knows everything.
Tom, I really do thank you for all of the help. This is deff. a first for me on a torque converter! I will get ahold of this fellow and see what he thinks, if the converter is on the way out then upgrading is a must. I will be sure to let you know what i learn on this one as it goes along.... again ,THANKS!!!
Try the IAC, the Idle Aircontrol Solenoid, It's responsible for maintaining idle speed w/ the ac on. If you are running the ac, or the defrost or another setting that causes the compressor to operate, the IAC will be responsible for your idle speed, not the stop screw. Did you set the idle speed with everything off? This little item drove me nuts on an '89 SHO, it would nearly stall at a red light. I actually was able to just clean it out, then worked fine. Haynes has a brief description of cleaning this part, if I'm not mistaken, check it out , it's worth a shot.
My uncles IAC went out on his 98-f150.... it wouldnt idle at all. When you got it started, unless you kept the rpms above 800 manually, it would die. And it is an automatic, which made it harder to do.
Well Tom, took it in and had a control valve replaced in tranny, thought we had it fixed. Then next day it surged at a red light and died on me, giving me check engine light again. So took it back and it throw same code plus several others, all dealing with tranny, however, it also throw a P1000 code and said could not complete testing, so the fellow callled his ole buddy over at the local Ford place and he said that it was a sensor in the tranny or the wiring harness to the sensor. He has to replace both but about 5 x's as many sensors as harnesses, so go with it first. They ordered it and hopefully will haves it in on Friday. It is a real pain to drive man!!!! it shifts gears constantly at low speeds and be ready to put in nuetral at all stop lights or it will die!... will keep you posted if this fixes it, I hope it does. This is the only codes it is throwing so feel pretty sure this is the culprit.
OH by the way.... cleaned the IAC earlier on.... thought that was the problem also because of a bad experience with one on a 1986 F150 I use to own, thanks for the help though fellows, I am trying all kinds of things on this one!!!!!
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