When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
With 230,000 miles on the old truck, I am in need of repair of my radius arm brackets. They move around a lot and clunk.
I will be torching off the old rivets and putting in new bolts and nuts. What grade bolts do I need for this fix and where to get them? I live in Pilot Virginia near Christiansburg/Blacksburg (Va Tech).
I will also be putting in upgraded radius arm bushings and I-beam pivot bushings.
Grade 8 (inch-size) or material class 8.8, 9.8, or 10.8 (metric). Since you're trying to eliminate the slop, I'd advise AGAINST using a torch: use a 4 1/2" angle grinder to remove the rivet head, and then an appropriate drill, considering the bolt you're using.
I always use my air chisel with a slightly dulled chisel bit. It pushes off the head real easy and quick then I switch to a punch bit and push it through. Each side only takes a minute or so and no heat to worry about. As for your upgraded bushings if they are aftermarket take them back. Especialy them red hard ones. That is unless you want it to ride harsher than it is now. Factory ford ones are the best.
Also you probably know this already but it will need to be aligned after so make sure all the other joints are good in the front end, inclusing the pivot bushings so the tech doing it won't get too confused. I have never known anyone who enjoyed aligning these things. I am pretty good at it but I have done so many I can actualy do it in the flat rate time allowed. Another good idea is to remove your alignment bushings now and clean them up and coat the inside and outside with antiseize. It will also help ensure you get a proper alignment by making the alignment guys job a little easier. I have seen numerous set the toe and let it go jobs because those alignment bushings wouldn't budge.
One last thing you can best check the condition of the upper ball joints with that alignment bushing out. Often they don't appear bad untill they are free to move.
Thanks guys. I will use a grinder or air chisel and will pay attention to the shims. I have already put in relatively new upper and lower bushings @ 180K. And I had cleaned up one of the shims then. I shall do both and go to stock for bushings. I like the nice ride. I don't want a harsher ride than I have.