Rear tire carrier and bumper
#1
Rear tire carrier and bumper
I've been searching and reading all over this forum that my eyes are sore.
I'm looking for a rear tire carrier for the excursion that won't interfere with the barn doors.
I'd like to be able to swing out the barn doors past the 90 degree stops. Not 180 degrees, but more than 90. Most of the rear bumpers with tire carriers have the hinge by the brake light and would interfere with the barn doors.
I'm building a set of pull out drawers and I'm trying to maximize their width, which means the barn doors need to open up wide enough to clear.
I'm looking for a rear tire carrier for the excursion that won't interfere with the barn doors.
I'd like to be able to swing out the barn doors past the 90 degree stops. Not 180 degrees, but more than 90. Most of the rear bumpers with tire carriers have the hinge by the brake light and would interfere with the barn doors.
I'm building a set of pull out drawers and I'm trying to maximize their width, which means the barn doors need to open up wide enough to clear.
#2
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#3
I was also looking at the buckstop. Around $4,600.
Are you able to open the barn doors past the 90 degree point, where the removable hinge stoppers normally would stop the barn doors? It looks like the barn door would hit the hinge.
Is the buckstop steel or aluminum?
Does it rattle? What size tire you running?
Are you able to open the barn doors past the 90 degree point, where the removable hinge stoppers normally would stop the barn doors? It looks like the barn door would hit the hinge.
Is the buckstop steel or aluminum?
Does it rattle? What size tire you running?
#4
Are you able to open the barn doors past the 90 degree point, where the removable hinge stoppers normally would stop the barn doors? It looks like the barn door would hit the hinge.
Is the buckstop steel or aluminum?
Does it rattle? What size tire you running?
#5
Can't afford an aftermarket bumper for now. But I needed a solution carry a 35" spare. Found a good deal on a Wilco. It works fine for the intended purpose. PO had shortened the folded arm by about 10". In stock form, it would clear the rear bumper enough for the barn doors to open past 90*
#6
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#7
I've been searching and reading all over this forum that my eyes are sore.
I'm looking for a rear tire carrier for the excursion that won't interfere with the barn doors.
I'd like to be able to swing out the barn doors past the 90 degree stops. Not 180 degrees, but more than 90. Most of the rear bumpers with tire carriers have the hinge by the brake light and would interfere with the barn doors.
I'm building a set of pull out drawers and I'm trying to maximize their width, which means the barn doors need to open up wide enough to clear.
I'm looking for a rear tire carrier for the excursion that won't interfere with the barn doors.
I'd like to be able to swing out the barn doors past the 90 degree stops. Not 180 degrees, but more than 90. Most of the rear bumpers with tire carriers have the hinge by the brake light and would interfere with the barn doors.
I'm building a set of pull out drawers and I'm trying to maximize their width, which means the barn doors need to open up wide enough to clear.
To get it so the barn doors could open fully, I put the pivot point as far out as I could without adding extra overall width to the truck.
Here is with the rear door open to 90* on the normal limit strap.
And fully open (limit strap removed). So that the full interior width can be used.
I made a thread with more pictures if you're interested, link below. Its a lot of work, but its the only way I found to get what you're asking for.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-carrier.html
...
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#9
I searched for awhile too looking for a rear bumper with a tire carrier that would allow the barn doors to fully open. I ended up just making one myself.
To get it so the barn doors could open fully, I put the pivot point as far out as I could without adding extra overall width to the truck.
Here is with the rear door open to 90* on the normal limit strap.
And fully open (limit strap removed). So that the full interior width can be used.
I made a thread with more pictures if you're interested, link below. Its a lot of work, but its the only way I found to get what you're asking for.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-carrier.html
...
To get it so the barn doors could open fully, I put the pivot point as far out as I could without adding extra overall width to the truck.
Here is with the rear door open to 90* on the normal limit strap.
And fully open (limit strap removed). So that the full interior width can be used.
I made a thread with more pictures if you're interested, link below. Its a lot of work, but its the only way I found to get what you're asking for.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-carrier.html
...
BTW, I'm also a veteran and in Texas...Dallas/Rowlett area.
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#10
And yes, I've got a decent bit of time invested in the rear bumper, but I simply couldn't find a ready made alternative that would do what I wanted it to. And even the ones that were kinda close still had things I didn't like ( not being able to fully open the rear barn doors was one common thing) and the cost for these not great, just barely acceptable, bumpers was outrageous. So out came the grinders and welder, overall I'm happy with the end result.
If you've got the space to do a project like this, its really not hard. Time consuming and dirty work for sure, but not technically/ academically difficult. It took me probably four months working on it a few hours here and there on weekends to get it done. And I changed the design / decided to added stuff to it just about every time I worked on it (can't have scope creep if you never set a project scope).
...
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#11
Thanks, I'm down around San Antonio (actually more between San Antonio and New Braunfels).
And yes, I've got a decent bit of time invested in the rear bumper, but I simply couldn't find a ready made alternative that would do what I wanted it to. And even the ones that were kinda close still had things I didn't like ( not being able to fully open the rear barn doors was one common thing) and the cost for these not great, just barely acceptable, bumpers was outrageous. So out came the grinders and welder, overall I'm happy with the end result.
If you've got the space to do a project like this, its really not hard. Time consuming and dirty work for sure, but not technically/ academically difficult. It took me probably four months working on it a few hours here and there on weekends to get it done. And I changed the design / decided to added stuff to it just about every time I worked on it (can't have scope creep if you never set a project scope).
...
And yes, I've got a decent bit of time invested in the rear bumper, but I simply couldn't find a ready made alternative that would do what I wanted it to. And even the ones that were kinda close still had things I didn't like ( not being able to fully open the rear barn doors was one common thing) and the cost for these not great, just barely acceptable, bumpers was outrageous. So out came the grinders and welder, overall I'm happy with the end result.
If you've got the space to do a project like this, its really not hard. Time consuming and dirty work for sure, but not technically/ academically difficult. It took me probably four months working on it a few hours here and there on weekends to get it done. And I changed the design / decided to added stuff to it just about every time I worked on it (can't have scope creep if you never set a project scope).
...
I'm just not sure the aluminum would be strong enough for the longterm use/weight of a rear tire and storage box, and I also need the bumper to protect me from minivans.
I'm thinking steel is the better choice, but would rather be riding around enjoying the excursion than welding.
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