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Ok, so I know the "throttle stop screw" is there to stop the plates from binding, but this brings me to my issue, if I set it to where unplugged IAC idle is about 500 (where it was recommended) the throttle binds, making it hard to shift, and rpms dont drop well untill i goose it. If I set it to where it doesn't bind, it doesn't idle right, and rpms also don't drop very well.
What if I blocked the holes in the throttle plates? I don't know, its kinda driving me nuts.
Ok, so I know the "throttle stop screw" is there to stop the plates from binding, but this brings me to my issue, if I set it to where unplugged IAC idle is about 500 (where it was recommended) the throttle binds, making it hard to shift, and rpms dont drop well untill i goose it. If I set it to where it doesn't bind, it doesn't idle right, and rpms also don't drop very well.
What if I blocked the holes in the throttle plates? I don't know, its kinda driving me nuts.
check throttle CABLE for routing, original may be bad, and check for the springs on the throttle
Somebody may have messed with the throttle plate mounting screws or there is enough wear in the pivot shaft bushings to allow the blades to bind. You could potentially fix both of those issues with the TB removed from the engine, but you might consider just replacing it if you go that far.
Somebody may have messed with the throttle plate mounting screws or there is enough wear in the pivot shaft bushings to allow the blades to bind. You could potentially fix both of those issues with the TB removed from the engine, but you might consider just replacing it if you go that far.
I didn't realize the plates could be messed with, taking them out would make cleaning the shaft very easy, but I don't want to mess with that for now, (maybe tighten if the screws are loose, I'll check)
Taking the TB off is no issue, Ive done it to replace TPS, and TB gasket, and a new/used is way too expensive.
Is there a bushing kit for these? Id totally consider replacing those.
I removed the plates from one of these throttlebodies one time when cleaning it, it took some patience and fiddling to get them lined up correctly again so I'm pretty sure a mental note was made not to do that again.
was the throttle body surface true, not corroded , r any other deviance from shiny machined metal? can you use an unlit propane torch around your throttlew with the hose on so you cant get propane to enter the opening with it running UNLES there was a leak? With unlit torch just
was the throttle body surface true, not corroded , r any other deviance from shiny machined metal? can you use an unlit propane torch around your throttlew with the hose on so you cant get propane to enter the opening with it running UNLES there was a leak? With unlit torch just
Yes, it was very smooth and clean, the old gasket was just missing some little pieces, and was smooshed very flat, new one definitely made it run better.
Unfortunately at the moment I don't have a torch that I can use. And I've wasted enough carb cleaner to no avail
I'll take a look at the cable, to make sure. It seems now as weather warms up, it isn't nearly as bad, and is much more drivable. Thanks for the help everyone.
