Stretch belt jumped the pulley and tore off the wire connector.. I bared the wires and measured 4 ohms on the coil. I jumped with battery charger and can hear the coil "click" ....... I cut the wires off the other end of the plug and jumpered the main harness to the two coil wires. When i engage air conditioner it blows the 10 amp small fuse in the box by the radiator.. Are the wires + and - sensitive ? I figured a coil is just two wires and polarity dont make any difference ??? Or do i have a short ? Colors on harness dont match the two on the compressor.

 

If that belt jumped off, you've got other problems besides wires. If the bearing in the pulley went out creating a belt misalignment, the pulley could have made contact with the field coil causing a short. Disconnect both wires and test each pin on the coil for continuity to ground. Should be an infinite reading or open on both pins.

When I get home I'll check for polarity in the diagrams I have. I'm almost sure it matters.

 

I think the belt must have stretched.. Jumped off the BACK side and grabbed the connecter and ripped it off.. About 3 inches of wire sticking out of the clutch. I tested them to have 4 ohms across the wires. Didnt check to ground since i got good resistance. Connected 12 v to the green and brown wires and the clutch CLICKED like it was pulling in.. Rotated the pulley and bearing is good.. rotated the pump by hand and it turned.. I "THOUGHT" all was well.. New belts and that is back in business.. Now to wire the compressor... Cut the end off the main harness plug and just connected to the GREEN and BROWN on the clutch. Did not pay much attention as the wire colors dont match.. Was wondering if one side of the clutch is GROUNDED..

If you know the color of the two wires on the main harness side of the plug and which goes to GREEN and BROWN that would be great... I will try that tommorow to see if i got it backward...... 50- 50 chance i got it wrong ????

 

also, some air conditioner coils had a DIODE in parallel across the two wires... I dont see any posts on line about this on a 2013... Does the wire diagram show a DIODE anywhere ?

 

Sorry for the delay, life got in the way. There should be 2 different color wires to the coil, one black, one violet/white. I don't see a +/- on the circuit which means polarity doesn't matter or there's a misprint in the diagrams, which has happened before. I remember the diode you speak of, I don't remember when but they were phased out long ago.

 

With wires disconnected, check the wires going to the clutch coil with a meter to see if they are shorted to ground. Both should read an open circuit.

 

STill got a problem i guess.. The harness is black with a white tracer and maybe violet with a white tracer... The compressor is green and brown.... and not plug on the end to determine #1 or #2.. ..... any more ideas ? 2013 V6 turbo..

 

Below your print above is a drawing of the plug end... over to the right , does it say #1 is POWER and #2 is GROUND ? My eyes are not good at the small detail ??

 

Correct. 1 power, 2 ground.

 

Literally the first thing I posted. Brilliant minds think alike.

 

So maybe there is something somewhere that needs the coil to be directional... I dont see anything and "thought" the coil didnt care, but maybe it does.... I looked on line and saw a picture of an aftermarket coil and the plug APPEARED to have a green and brown wire and the green APPEARED to go to the #2 side of the plug.............. so for now i am assuming that #2 is GROUND, black is GROUND and on the coil GREEN is GROUND.......... when i get a chance i will get back in there and look.... Access is not good for me. Takes 30 minutes to get enought schrouds, ducts, hoses off or out of the way to get access to the wire... and they are only 3 inches long.

 

Well i took the spliced wires back off and measured the clutch coil at 5 ohms.. Measured both to ground and open.. Measured the meter lead to lead and it measured 5 ohms !!! ......... Meter battery weak... Got the spare meter and measured 0.2 ohms... Measured each to ground and open ... So it "MIGHT" be that when the belt jumped and grabber the plug it YANKED the wires on the clutch coil and they shorted together since i basically have ZERO resistance.... Spent 2.5 hours taking off more duct work and getting the clutch plate off , then the snap ring for the pulley, then the 3 screws that hold on the coil.. Everything on bench.. Coil is shorted out inside.....

Ordered a new Motocraft clutch/ pulley/ coil from Rock Auto for $145.. ... also a new plug for the main harness to the coil and a new Gates belt .... Hope that fixes everything ......... assume the direct short inside the coil is what caused the 10 amp fuse to blow.

I put the hub back on the compressor and grab with one hand and with about 10 pounds of "twist" i can rotate the pump.. Im assuming that is about right.

 

Pay close attention to any shims for the clutch hub plate. You'll want that gap to be at 0.014-0.026" (0.35-0.65mm) Best to use a brass feeler gauge (non magnetic) otherwise residual magnetism might cause the gauge to drag more than the gap dictates skewing your results.

 

SUCCESS... Got the new Motocraft clutch / coil and Gates belt and installed.. Air outlet temp on the dash is 48 degrees.. Not bad for a 10 year old truck with 100,000 miles..

Getting the old clutch off is not a good time. This is the 3.5 turbo so access is poor . Had to remove the air inlet duct, air duct to the passenger side turbo, 3-4 vaccum lines and the top radiator hose.. Didnt acutally remove some of them, just took off one end and push them 6 inches to the side. Top radiator hose has to be removed.. Access after that is still limited, but doable. Ctuch plate is held on by 8mm head bolt. I have a Vice Grip with curved jaws that goes around a 4 inch pipe. That does a good job of grabbing the clutch plate while you unscrew the bolt. Plate drives the splined pump shaft.. Does not "slide" right off as on You Tube.. Pry behind with screw driver while tapping on the top with a 2 pound bar... Eventually it will walk its way off. Behind that is the pulley/ bearing that is retained by a snap ring. Cant see the snap ring, its recessed 1/2 inch and your looking DOWN from the top.. Took about 20 minutes, but finally got the pliers in the holes and popped it out. Coil is retained by 3 phillips screws behind the pulley.. You Tube shows many models have a second snap ring.. Im glad this was 3 screws...

Sandblased the splines inside the new clutch hub so it would be easier to slide onto the pump shaft. Set the air gap at .015 inch.. Figured if anything it would wear and increase over time. Another 45 minutes to put all the hoses / ducts and covers back on.. Started engine and engaged the AC without the belt on. Wanted to make sure the FUSE would work with the new clutch and there was no other electrical problem further back in the system.. All good.. Took the main belt back off and installed the AC Stretch Belt .. then put the main belt back on... In the beginning i thought that was going to be the BIG JOB.. Ends up i can do it in 20 minutes now !! (from the bottom).... Put skid plate and rubber shield back on and done !!

 

Love it when a plan comes together.

I still have one question though. Why did that belt jump? That should NEVER happen. When it does something else is broken. I'd hate to hear you broke what you've fixed because you didn't fix what caused the belt to jump.