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If you have the solenoid stick like that then it got so hot the contacts melted together internally.
You might not have a big enough solenoid for the application.
you need to reflash the generator and ohm out the coil with a multimeter to see if it is damaged.
check to see if you also burnt out your point contacts as well.
Also you might have fried a few of the gauges by reversing polarity.
The solenoid was the one that was recommended for the truck. I have had a solenoid stick before too and they never work right after they get all melty like that.
Oddly the issue seemed to only occur when the coil was wired reverse polarity. If it sticks again I will just replace it.
I had read other articles that it would not harm the gauges they would have just read in reverse, but I will check when / if I can get it running.
Is there a way to check if the generator needs to be reflashed?
Based on the other responses on the coil I was just going to swap for a 6v
If you have the solenoid stick like that then it got so hot the contacts melted together internally.
You might not have a big enough solenoid for the application.
you need to reflash the generator and ohm out the coil with a multimeter to see if it is damaged.
Already discussed....
Originally Posted by DieselDog409
check to see if you also burnt out your point contacts as well.
Points are not voltage or polarity sensitive.
Originally Posted by DieselDog409
Also you might have fried a few of the gauges by reversing polarity.
Stock and just about every suitable aftermarket gauge are not polarity sensitive (except the amp meter, but still not detrimental, just backwards reading). However, 12V exposure can damage the stock 6V gauges, but so far, not symptomatic.
Originally Posted by DieselDog409
anyways I had put a 12 volt coil on my rig when it was still 6v and it ohmed out to 1.5 ohms.
I forget if the externally resisted ones will ohm out to that or the non resistor ones.
regardless you use the 12v coil in question whichever one it is and just don't use a resistor with it and it will work great.
More confusion despite covering some if this information in this thread already? Generally, 12V coils ohm out at 3-4.5 ohms and 6V coils ohm out at 1 to 1.5. In some applications, an external resistor was used in conjunction with a 6V coil on 12V systems. A 12V coil on a 6V system will always be suboptimal and far from a sure thing that will fire an engine.
Originally Posted by DieselDog409
sorry, didn't read the other posts
As with DieselDog409 and all members, is it to much to hope and encourage that participation be meaningful additions and not spewings of glaring inaccuracies or rehashings of conflated bits?
I had read other articles that it would not harm the gauges they would have just read in reverse, but I will check when / if I can get it running.
No harm no foul for reverse polarity as I pointed out in response. Stock gauges don't take kindly to 12V, but we can cross that bridge later. You obviously will not be subjecting them to any further bouts of 12V.
Originally Posted by rbjones21
Is there a way to check if the generator needs to be reflashed?
The non-function of the charging system or the appearance of electrical gremalins is a big clue. Also, any servicing of the battery/charging system suggests re-polarizing as a matter of course.[/QUOTE]
Originally Posted by rbjones21
Based on the other responses on the coil I was just going to swap for a 6v
That is the perfect course of action at this juncture.
Is there a way to check if the generator needs to be reflashed?
It would be just as easy to reflash it. Simply remove the Battery and Field connections on your Voltage regulator and momentarily just touch them together. When you see a small spark your generator is now flashed back to the correct polarity. Then just reconnect the wires back to your voltage regulator and if everything is good, it should be charging.
Quick Update, As many assumed it was a 12V coil. The new 6v was in the correct range and good news the truck wanted to start. Bad news the starter solenoid is bad since it wanted to keep spinning, so now waiting on a replacement for that.
Thanks for the help, and hope to have a full positive test in a day or so.
i got a standard SS571 3 post 6v which was said to be compatible but nothing when I push the starter button.
I am thinking they sent you the wrong soleniod. See if you can get the model bmoran4 mentioned, the Standard Ignition SS558.
As Brian mentioned in another post above, some of these "pull in" on a ground delivered to the center terminal and uses a one wire starter button, and others use a hot delivered to the center terminal by using a two wire starter button. But, I don't really know which years use which.
I believe the SS 571 is a power trigger, not a ground trigger. The SS 558 should be the ground trigger you are looking for. The SS 571 can be made to work with a two wire starter button. Most parts databases do not get this deep with what works with what unfortunately.
@hooler1 , my Ford books show that the positive power tigger solenoid happened for the 52 model year, but it's best to simply look at what your truck is equiped with.
I believe the SS 571 is a power trigger, not a ground trigger. The SS 558 should be the ground trigger you are looking for. The SS 571 can be made to work with a two wire starter button. Most parts databases not get this deep with what works with what unfortunately.
Went with in stock. I did try to find info on the 2 for that reason. I guess I will order the correct one now
@hooler1 , my Ford books show that the positive trigger solenoid happened for the 52 model year, but it's best to simply look at what your truck is equiped with.
Thank You Sir!
I appreciate it as I always have a hard time remembering when that occurred.
i got a standard SS571 3 post 6v which was said to be compatible but nothing when I push the starter button.
Generally the supply house will give you a 6 volt solenoid, I don't think they even have a clue if it is power triggered or ground triggered. I guess we are lucky they even have 6 volt available. The easy way to check is to use a remote starter switch and try it with your battery posts. The one that triggers it tells you which version they gave you.