Hey all, I'm new here. Am dropping my fuel tank: 2000 F250 7.3 Powerstroke. Is aluminum good for the Mod to eliminate the filters and pick up tube in the tank? Will it hold up as well as Stainless or Brass submerged in the diesel fuel. My truck won't start now and this is my first Ford diesel! I am planning to put a filter before the pump. Thanks in advance.

 

Howdy and welcome!

I can’t answer your question but can share a link to a good write up. @SkySkiJason who did this write up could tell you what material to use.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19216921

There are 4 threads about how to do this in the Tech Folder sticky at the top of our forum. Easiest way to find them (for me) is to go into the tech folder then do a find for “hutch”

Seems like when I did my mod I used “green” brake line. I didn’t know much at the time (still don’t) so hopefully I’m not going to have issues with it.

 

I just used part of the original line and made connections with brass compression units when I did mine probably 20 years ago...no issues to date...

 

I used copper line and brass fittings, how they look now IDK. I don't plan on removing the sending unit anytime soon knock on wood.

 

Thanks
Hey everyone, this is RabbiBob I don't know how to answer or thank you. My posting credentials haven't been honed as of yet! I have now found the article for the Hutch mod. I surely will get better with a little time and practice. I enjoy this sight just a bit behind in computer knowledge. Again thanks

 

I read somewhere a few years back when I did my Hutch mod that copper wasn’t a good product to have submerged in diesel for long term. I think it was @FordTruckNoob who made me aware of it. I do know for fact it’s not ok with Bio Diesel.

I went with Aluminum myself.

 

You’re doing fine!

Did you find the tech folder? Here’s a direct link. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ch-folder.html

It’s located here.

 

For the compression fittings used in the tank, brass is fine. Most common type.

It's 90% copper but brass is fine.

 

Welcome to FTE.

Good advice given here. You’ll see in my write-up that I use a common brass 3/8” compression and aluminum tubing with a 90* bend at the bottom so it can suck from the very bottom of the tank. I also do not put any stock in the crazy notion that the factory quick-connect fittings leak. The 30R9 or equal fuel hose required to replace the factory lines is expensive and far more prone to failure than the stock tubing. The WIX 33972 is plenty adequate to replace the pre-pump filters we removed. Even with inflation, this upgrade should be about $30.

However, my concern is that this may not be the fix for your no-start situation. WHEN the pickup foot/umbrella fails, the truck will run out of fuel about 1/4 tank. Adding 5gals or so of fuel to the tank would solve the no-start if this (broken umbrella) is the problem.

Another way to check fuel supply to engine is by using the water drain valve on fuel filter. I like to add a section of cheap vinyl 5/16” ID tubing to the drain line. It dumps about 1/2 way down the front passenger side of the engine, near the water pump. Just slide the vinyl hose over the steel line and make it long enough to reach a container (1/2gal or bigger) on the ground. Now, open water drain valve on filter housing and collect/inspect the contents from filter bowl. With the valve still open, turn the ignition to ON, but do not try to start the engine. The fuel pump will run about 20sec and you should get about 1qrt of fuel. The flow should be steady and not aerated. Like an old school water fountain.

If the flow is good, then ‘fuel’ is not your problem. Close the water drain valve and cycle the key ON for 30secs 3 times before trying to start the engine again.

Meanwhile, do the Service Engine Soon and Wait to Start lights come on and go off when you turn the ignition ON?

 

where is the drain valve located? This is a great idea!

 

Drain valve is on the back of the fuel bowl. It’s a pre-filter measurement but better than nothing.

This link from the Tech folder should describe the process. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...4&d=1592859516

 

Cool. Thanks, I found it.

 

You found the drain valve.

But to find the drain tube, where you would attach a drain hose such as Sky Ski Jason suggests, it is easiest to peer through the front passenger wheel well, to look for a metal tube that terminates mid air above the exhaust manifold on the forward end of the engine.

There are actually two metal tubes in that area, but only one is blunt cut and open ended, and that is the fuel bowl drain tube to keep the drained fuel from filling up the valley.

The other metal tube is for the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor, but it is attached at both ends, and it will be readily apparent that it isn't a drain tube.

Once you attach your drain hose to the open end of the drain tube, it will be a LOT easier to collect your fuel drain sample.




I made my drain hose 4.5 feet long, so that I could keep it permanently attached to the open end of the drain tube, and easily reach the hose from the front of the truck, without getting dirty.

I used the existing air deflector fastening clip holes underneath the radiator support to store the fuel drain hose when not in use.

 

Thanks for the excellent advise. I still have the tank on the ground doing the modifications. Seeing the inside of my tank and the fuel pump not having much suction, I'm thinking the remnents from that foot and 24years screwed up my fuel pump. I replaced it. Also while transfering the fuel from the 2000 F250 I had to clean the filter four (4) times while putting it into my 93 dodge 12 valve tank. I haven't checked the Service Engine soon and Wait to Start lights, but will do that when I get the tank back in the truck. Thanks!

 

Since tank is out cut off the vent tube in there.