Aluminum/Stainless
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7th Gear
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 7
Likes: 2
From: MO
Welcome to FTE.
Good advice given here. You’ll see in my write-up that I use a common brass 3/8” compression and aluminum tubing with a 90* bend at the bottom so it can suck from the very bottom of the tank. I also do not put any stock in the crazy notion that the factory quick-connect fittings leak. The 30R9 or equal fuel hose required to replace the factory lines is expensive and far more prone to failure than the stock tubing. The WIX 33972 is plenty adequate to replace the pre-pump filters we removed. Even with inflation, this upgrade should be about $30.
However, my concern is that this may not be the fix for your no-start situation. WHEN the pickup foot/umbrella fails, the truck will run out of fuel about 1/4 tank. Adding 5gals or so of fuel to the tank would solve the no-start if this (broken umbrella) is the problem.
Another way to check fuel supply to engine is by using the water drain valve on fuel filter. I like to add a section of cheap vinyl 5/16” ID tubing to the drain line. It dumps about 1/2 way down the front passenger side of the engine, near the water pump. Just slide the vinyl hose over the steel line and make it long enough to reach a container (1/2gal or bigger) on the ground. Now, open water drain valve on filter housing and collect/inspect the contents from filter bowl. With the valve still open, turn the ignition to ON, but do not try to start the engine. The fuel pump will run about 20sec and you should get about 1qrt of fuel. The flow should be steady and not aerated. Like an old school water fountain.
If the flow is good, then ‘fuel’ is not your problem. Close the water drain valve and cycle the key ON for 30secs 3 times before trying to start the engine again.
Meanwhile, do the Service Engine Soon and Wait to Start lights come on and go off when you turn the ignition ON?
Good advice given here. You’ll see in my write-up that I use a common brass 3/8” compression and aluminum tubing with a 90* bend at the bottom so it can suck from the very bottom of the tank. I also do not put any stock in the crazy notion that the factory quick-connect fittings leak. The 30R9 or equal fuel hose required to replace the factory lines is expensive and far more prone to failure than the stock tubing. The WIX 33972 is plenty adequate to replace the pre-pump filters we removed. Even with inflation, this upgrade should be about $30.
However, my concern is that this may not be the fix for your no-start situation. WHEN the pickup foot/umbrella fails, the truck will run out of fuel about 1/4 tank. Adding 5gals or so of fuel to the tank would solve the no-start if this (broken umbrella) is the problem.
Another way to check fuel supply to engine is by using the water drain valve on fuel filter. I like to add a section of cheap vinyl 5/16” ID tubing to the drain line. It dumps about 1/2 way down the front passenger side of the engine, near the water pump. Just slide the vinyl hose over the steel line and make it long enough to reach a container (1/2gal or bigger) on the ground. Now, open water drain valve on filter housing and collect/inspect the contents from filter bowl. With the valve still open, turn the ignition to ON, but do not try to start the engine. The fuel pump will run about 20sec and you should get about 1qrt of fuel. The flow should be steady and not aerated. Like an old school water fountain.
If the flow is good, then ‘fuel’ is not your problem. Close the water drain valve and cycle the key ON for 30secs 3 times before trying to start the engine again.
Meanwhile, do the Service Engine Soon and Wait to Start lights come on and go off when you turn the ignition ON?
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