To release the brakes, fluid must flow back to the master cylinder through a return port when pedal pressure is released. To be sure the piston moves back far enough to expose the return port, free-travel is in to the pedal linkage on standard booster systems. This prevents the piston from becoming trapped in a partially released position. Pedal-free travel is not always perceptible in dash-mounted power brake booster systems, because the operating clearance for the piston is adjusted at the booster push rod, rather than the brake pedal linkage. Refer to Section 06-07A for instructions on dash-mounted booster push rod adjustment.

 

pull seemed to be front actually turned steering wheel to left. Complete brake fluid swap, prior to new parts.
Fronts were in great shape with fat pads and a newer rubber line... calipers were shot and crusty so it got calipers and everthing cleaned up/lubed and bled twice now.
rears were a complete start over, shoes drums springs, wheel cyl, park brake pivot pins, all cleaned up and bled, adjusted to where drum just barely made it back over shoes, smidgen rub on shoe surface. I will have to research how to adjust park brake.

 

my only thought is that the front pistons were not fully seated against the pads when you intially took off (the pedal runs out of travel before a piston is able to go from fully retracted to fully applied even on new brake linings and disc) and your stop was to take up that distance, and it correcting itself was because they are both equal now.
Otherwise, you may have Twisted your brake hose. check your brake hoses with wheels straight ahead, there should be NO tension in the hose whatsoever, if there is, thats actually applying your brake while not applying the pedal.

 

I dont think you read me right. To adjust the parking brake, you need your cables equalized and you need them both to work, and they both have to be hooked up, and hooked to the pedal, and then you need your drums equally adjusted. is all that true? then you just apply the parking brake multiple times. fully apply, release, fully apply, release. Then reverse and stomp on the brakes if you want to be thourough. If the self adjusters are working right, you will probably ratchet a small amount more but possibly not. The parking brake use should, by itself, adjust the rear brake if its working as intended on an F150. im not sure about F350, the owners manual should tell you.
Can you show me your hardware on your rear brakes before you put the wheels/drums on?

 

good thought. I will double check that... easy to overlook

 

I actually did. Not take after pics.... just before pics so I could have a reference in putting it all back

 

pull a drum off ,preferably both, and have someone slightly push the park pedal and what do you see happen?

 

Haynes manual says no adjustment for parking brake itself... it says check cables, pedal and adjust brakes...
Game plan is tomorrow to road test again, do some of the reverse and hit brakes hard and see if things improve. If not gonna jack up rear, try the star wheel adjustment in neutral and set things to just have the tiny bit of drag. If that doesn't work, then pull wheels and investigate from there. Kinda don't want to take park pivot pin bolts out again as they say they are one-time use... and they are expensive for what they are.
tonight I will look at the diagram pics posted above, and try and learn a bit more about these brakes. And find some youtube vids of parking brake issues, or master cyl/ booster issues.
I think I have 2 problems to solve at same time

 

Backing didn't help. Took both sides off found a spring off and found I did not have pivot ears in the gaps between top of shoes. Brakes much better now. Park brake works about 5/6ths of what it should. May have to do a bit of star wheel adjusting to make it better.