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I’d be grateful for advice on a dealer quote for PMS replacement.
It’s a 2019 F250 diesel, with only 19,000 miles. Used mostly for towing.
It has thrown code P20EE, and I’m told the PMS sensor has failed because “diesels don’t like to sit”.
But they also said that the sensor and the tailpipe have to replaced as the sensor will not come out. A subsequent online search shows a separate sensor/sender unit. Do I really have to pay the outrageous price for a new tailpipe too?
Thanks for the help!
Gavin
You will have to shop around for a mechanic that knows what they are doing, lots of people own tools and get paid to change parts, very few are mechanics.
The sensor and bung may be destroyed, but those parts can be bought. Replacing the pipe is profitable as it is expensive and the mark up is easy profit, the labor to remove the bung is less than the cost of the pipe, so less profit doing something that saves you money and frees the tech up to make even more money doing more replacements.
Happy hunting.
Thanks for the explanation, which makes sense now. As an aside they quoted 1.5 hours total labor to replace the pipe and sensor. Less time as you say than sensor removal. I will look for another mechanic.
Thanks for sharing your experience. My sensor may be rusted in pretty good. But for the huge price of a new OE pipe (I’m in Canada- so it’s outrageous), I will buy the sensor and take it to a mechanic friend. He may have to weld in a new bung. Here anyway the price of a new pipe is about 8-10 hours of non dealer labor.
I’m on a bike ride right now …but when I get home in a hour…I’m going to try to cut a slot in the bung and then try to spread the cut with a chisel to see if I can open the bung and maybe get some pb blaster deeper and try to get the sensor out.
should be a 15 minute effort.
my new sensor has been on order for almost a week and is not in bound yet.
success or fail…I’ll post at the end of this thread
Here's a good source for sensor fittings aka bungs... No experience with them but found them online, small business of auto techs... I plan on buying from them in the near future to have on hand when it's time. They also sell on EBay.
I cut thru the pipe , up to the sensor, right thru the bung. I split open a 1/16 cut to 1/8 of an inch. Pb blaster, tourch, 3lb hammer, correct sensor socket with 18” breaker bar. Did not come out.
Here's a good source for sensor fittings aka bungs... No experience with them but found them online, small business of auto techs... I plan on buying from them in the near future to have on hand when it's time. They also sell on EBay.
best course of action is drill a new hole and weld in a new bung.
I'm thinking more for a NOx sensor or EGT sensor in the rocketship... When I buy a DPF back, I'll have my buddy disconnect the particulate sensor from the truck and just leave it in when it's removed from the truck and buy a new one for the aftermarket pipe.
I'm thinking more for a NOx sensor or EGT sensor in the rocketship... When I buy a DPF back, I'll have my buddy disconnect the particulate sensor from the truck and just leave it in when it's removed from the truck and buy a new one for the aftermarket pipe.
agree
im going to order a few o2 , nox, and and egt bungs and practice my welding . The protocol for replacing sensors will definitely be to leave the bad one in place and create a new position for the new sensor.
It also, let me clarify….i only hacked up my old pipe to get the sensor out becuase i had no due in date for the new sensor and i don’t need the old pipe.
if i were to replace a sensor on the dpf or upstream …i would t even attempt removing the old one…i would drill a new hole…weld in a bung…and install the new egt, sensor, or what ever in a new location.
im going to order a few o2 , nox, and and egt bungs and practice my welding . The protocol for replacing sensors will definitely be to leave the bad one in place and create a new position for the new sensor.
On JTE Products tutorial page, they heat up the fitting red hot and twist it off the DPF... But you're doing the tailpipe... I have zero experience with welding so I would not know...
Heat the fitting with a fine tipped oxy acetylene torch (hotter) and it WILL come lose. I have done this many many times with fittings and nuts. It never fails.
Do not heat a casting to get a bolt out. It will make it more tight. Instead, stick it in the freezer over night if you can or get some dry ice.
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