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I have seen a few sets of Lund brand grill inserts for 82-86 F150. Does anyone know where I can pick up a set? I saw a set on eBay a while back but got sidetracked and forgot to order them.
I dont see the need for them on a gas motor and a working T stat.
Now if you have a 250 / 350 with a diesel then yes I can see the grille cover.
I say this because I had a diesel, GM 6.2, and diesels do not make any heat when the sit and idle.
They only make heat when under power as shown by a EGT gauge.
I had a full grille cover on my truck that you could un-zip, like the big rigs, to open it and as long as it was below 40*f and not pulling a load I could leave it zipped up fully.
Any of my gas trucks / SUV's I never had issues of no heat build up when idling.
My .02
Dave ----
I use fanfold,. I can reuse it year after year. ghetto probably but effective.
I run a 180 stat which works very well but in the cold weather (teens or colder) I can go down the highway and watch the temps drop till the stat closes and than sits at about 175 ish.
That's fine and the cab still stays warm but with the cover, the temp will get up to about 182-5 stat will stay open and the heat can sweat you out.
I don't fully cover the radiator, I leave some exposed unlike a full grill cover. I could go without one, but I prefer using one.
I use a piece of thin sheet metal between the radiator and AC condenser. It's is about half the width of the radiator, with a 2" lip bent across the top to keep from falling down. I painted this lip bright pink to stand out so I don't forget to remove it when the weather warms up. I don't see much difference on the temperature gauge, but maybe if it had numbers (Hi Dave!). It does make the heater nice and toasty, though.
I've always been perplexed how it makes any difference. In theory, the thermostat should maintain its rated temperature. My best guess relates to the cooling system having a massive surplus of cooling capacity during the winter. When the thermostat opens on a cold day, the heat transfer through the radiator is excessive and the coolant returns extra cold. Limit that heat transfer at the radiator and the returning coolant stays warmer.
That's my theory and I'm sticking to it. All I know is the heater performance goes from good to great, so I'm happy. More importantly, my wife is happy and that's all that matters.
I use a piece of thin sheet metal between the radiator and AC condenser. It's is about half the width of the radiator, with a 2" lip bent across the top to keep from falling down. I painted this lip bright pink to stand out so I don't forget to remove it when the weather warms up. I don't see much difference on the temperature gauge, but maybe if it had numbers (Hi Dave!). It does make the heater nice and toasty, though.
I've always been perplexed how it makes any difference. In theory, the thermostat should maintain its rated temperature. My best guess relates to the cooling system having a massive surplus of cooling capacity during the winter. When the thermostat opens on a cold day, the heat transfer through the radiator is excessive and the coolant returns extra cold. Limit that heat transfer at the radiator and the returning coolant stays warmer.
That's my theory and I'm sticking to it. All I know is the heater performance goes from good to great, so I'm happy. More importantly, my wife is happy and that's all that matters.
I did not say in my post but the factory stat for a 300 six is 192*f and yes it will cook you out in the winter.
If you dont get the motor hot enough it will not boil the condensate out you also get more wear on the motor.
Dave ----
I did not say in my post but the factory stat for a 300 six is 192*f and yes it will cook you out in the winter.
If you don't get the motor hot enough it will not boil the condensate out you also get more wear on the motor.
Dave ----
For some reason, people like to use a lower temp t-stat thinking that it's easier (?) on the engine. My current Ranger had a 180* (or 185*) stat in it when I got it. I put the proper 195* stat in it and the heater works better but the fuel economy improved as well. Stick to factory specs and you'll be OK (IMHO).
I had a 2001 New Beetle with the 1.8 TDi ALH engine. It must have had some sort of special air ducting to the radiator because I always had heat but it sure ran better, in the winter, with the grille blocked off. I also have a heated garage and it had a block heater (so I could plug it in at the office, in the parking garage). I never found the need to block off any part of the radiator with a gasoline engine. YMMV.
I had my thermostat fail open on a road trip with my 6.9l diesel engine. I was about 40 miles from home. I stopped at a store and blocked off the entire radiator with cardboard and it only made a tiny difference. It was cold out around 40F. I limped it home on back roads keeping rpm low as possible. Then while changing out the thermostat I also changed the oil because running cold allows more blow by and thins the oil. Always use the thermostat spec'd for your engine.
my truck came with the 180, it works and I'm sticking with it. In the summer I can see temps around 195 to 200 while towing. sometimes up to 205. Obviously I don't restrict airflow in the summer.
not that I need to explain how I operate my equipment.
my truck came with the 180, it works and I'm sticking with it. In the summer I can see temps around 195 to 200 while towing. sometimes up to 205. Obviously I don't restrict airflow in the summer.
not that I need to explain how I operate my equipment.
I'm wondering what thermostat is spec'd for your engine? Came with a 180 tstat?
If your engine is designed to operate at 190 degrees and you use a 180 thermostat because you think it helps during towing think again. When you are not towing you are running cold, promoting blow by and contaminating your oil and increasing engine wear. When towing and the engine is working harder and temps reach 190 to 205, if you used a 190 thermostat you won't increase temperature during towing as it would be open. What it will do is allow your engine to warm up and run at design operating temperature when not towing.