So bought 2024 Lariat diesel and added Pro Power option. Only use the truck to pull my travel trailer and wanted the Pro Power as a back up when not enough sun to charge my Li batteries via solar. When testing the Pro Power system I ran into to some troubling readings.

Hot to neutral gave me 124 volts as expected. Hot to ground however gave me 279 volts! I plugged in your standard household outlet tester and as the tester went through checks it tripped the GFIC of the truck. Reset the truck outlet and the tester tripped the truck outlet again.

Anyone run into this? Anyone have ideas on how to get the ground grounded?

I did run some two prong appliances on the Pro Power and those work fine. I am worried to plug anything requiring all three prongs.

 

What do you read HOT to GROUND?

What are the 3 lights on the tester showing when plugged in?

Does it trip the Truck's GFCI when the RED button eh the tester is NOT pushed?

 

You need a good meter that reads RMS, not peak those inverters don't create a good waveform

 

Correction I meant to type what do you read NEUTRAL to GROUND?

 

I remember Root Mean Squared from college physics but that was 40+ years ago. Not sure I will spend the extra $ for that style meter as this would be its only application.
The household outlet tester when plugged in would go through its program, show hot and ground reversed and trip the truck's GFIC.
I plugged in my portable air compressor with a 14 amp demand and the truck wouldn't fire up the compressor. The compressor did not trip the truck's GFIC.
Tomorrow I will check the neutral to ground and see if there are volts there. I have also created a short dog bone adapter where I have removed the ground. As I have said, my main objective is to charge my travel trailer lithium batteries so I may try feeding the trailer with just the hot-neutral 124 volts and see how that works.

 

I have a 2024 F-450 with 120vac ProPower outlets in the bed. I’ll put a meter on the outlets and also use my GFCI Receptacle tester tomorrow and report my findings back. I’ll also run a 120v extension cord to my 5th wheel RV and report how it works to charge my single 100 aHr Lithium battery in the RV. I can read LiIon battery voltage with my iPhone Bluetooth app.

 

Interested to see how it works with your RV. There was a thread earlier about the pro power not liking the RV hook up, likely because the RV AC panels are not neutral/ground bonded and cause a ground fault.

 

How large is the output of the inverter?
Isn't there a ford tech here that might be able to help?

 

I think the opposite is true. We also have a Ford Lightning with several120v 20a and one 240v 30 amp ProPower.output. The truck is Neutral/Ground bonded and throws a Ground fault when plugged into our house generator input where the house panel is bonded. Removing the ground connection from truck to generator inlet solves the problem.

The Lightning’s 240v/30a output works fine powering the RV as is, with ground connected. The difference is that Neutral and Ground are separated in the 5th wheel’s breaker panel therefore the truck doesn’t sense a ground fault.

 

READY FOR THIS?

I get the exact same results with my 2024 F-450 that you get with your F-450. I get an immediate GFCI Trip just plugging the tool directly to the receptacle even without hitting the red test button.
Then when i remove the tool, reset the GFCI Fault what I read with the voltmeter directly at the outlet with no load on the 120 vac outlets is below:

• Reading directly at the outlet
• HOT to Neutral = 124 vac
• Hot to Ground = 279 vac
• Ground to Neutral = 0 volts

Now it gets interesting. When I use a 75 foot long 120 v extension cord and plug in the receptacle test tool at the end, it again immediately trips GFCI fault.
Then when i remove the tool from the extension cord, reset the GFCI Fault what I read directly at the extension cord with no load on the 120 vac outlets is below:

• Reading directly at the outlet
• HOT to Neutral = 124 vac
• Hot to Ground = 0 vac WTH?
• Ground to Neutral = 0 volts

-------------------------------------

I tested the 223 Lighting ProPower outlets, both in the truck bed and in the front truck. . They operate normally as expected. Plus the test tool does not trip the a GFCI Fault unless the red button is pressed. Just like all our outlets at home. PLUS READINGS are the same at the Extension cord and directly at the outlets.

• Reading directly at the outlet
• HOT to Neutral = 124 vac
• Hot to Ground = 124 vac
• Ground to Neutral = 0 volts

-------------------------------------

 

What exactly does the inverter use for a floating ground for ac?

On edit, out of curiosity i checked mine. In my 2022 I took out the factory crap inverter and wired in a 750 watt Wal-Mart inverter to plug in 2 Milwaukee fast chargers. Works great. I used 2 guage wire. It shows 14.4 volts dc coming in, when checking it i only get 92 volts. Neutral to ground or even hot to ground shows 6 volts.
My set up.. i use #1 upfitter to a solenoid to power the circuit.

 

The output is supposed to be 2,300 watts, but the display shows 2,000 watts. I talked with the dealer service manager and he did not know much other than to quote the truck's manual. I am trying to find someone within FoMoCo that is focused on the Pro Power system that I can chat with about my issues.

 

Please post results when and if you find someone at Ford with knowledge. I’m also reluctant to connect my RV to the truck’s 120v outlet due to the strange reading you and I observed with 279 volts hot to ground.

 

So ran more tests today. Only showed 75 - 80v hot to ground or neutral to ground. I actually plugged in my travel trailer to the Pro Power to see what happens. Going directly from the Pro Power to my trailer trips the truck's GFIC. If I add a two prong converter to remove the ground, I can actually provide 120V to my trailer.

The next domino to fall then is the trailer's Victron inverter. When the Victron tries to convert the AC to DC for charging the batteries, as the inverter draws more than 300 watts, it faults out. If I go into the inverter settings and limit the draw to 3 amps or less, the inverter will draw 200 - 330 watts all day long. For my purposes this is better than nothing. If I use my Honda EU2200i generator, I can bring my batteries from 50% state of charge to 100% SOC in about 1.5 hours at 1,950 watts. If I can only receive ~300 watts from the truck without tripping either truck or inverter, then replenishing my batteries from 50% to 100% SOC would take about 4.5 hours. I do not want to run my truck for 4.5 hours, but if I can run for 2 hours and give me enough battery charge to run most of the systems in my trailer, I will be happy for now.

Somewhat off topic, but if you are an Airstreamer and will attend the International Rally in Sedalia, MO, the rally group is trying to get a Ford engineer to come and give a seminar on Pro Power. We had the head engineer of towing at Ford give a seminar last year in Wyoming and it he gave great information and great presentation.

I am independently trying to find a better Pro Power resource. If I am successful, I will post any information I get.

 

We have a friend who tows his Airstream with a F-150 Hybrid. He powers the RV with the proposer output from the hybrid. Prior to the Aistream he towed a Grand Design Travel trailer and powered it with the F-150.

Of course the 150 proposer is significantly different than the SuperDuty. It’s more like my Lightning.