Two lights came on at same time, one is the light that shows emergency brake is on, it's not, the other is abs circled, no check engine light, no codes with code reader. if i remember correctly, i hit the brakes kind of hard they came on and haven't gone off.

 

Do you know if the reader you used scanned the ABS system? If it didn't. you'll need to have the ABS scanned for codes.

 

For the brake light, if you haven't already, check the brake fluid first. Then disconnect the brake fluid reservoir wire connector. If the light stays on, plug it back in and disconnect the emergency brake wire connector. Will wait for you to do these tests.

 

ok the brake fluid level is full, i couldn't get brake fluid connecter undone afraid to brake reservoir, no idea were the emergency brake connecter might be, thanks for the advice will try again to get this done

 

the reader is a cheap amazon reader i doubt it checked abs. might try to do more with reader, really have not checked out what it might do. thanks for the advice

 

Here is a link to a video showing where the emergency brake switch is, how to remove it, and disconnect it's wire: . After that turn the ignition switch on. If the brake warning light goes out, the switch is malfunctioning.

To test the fluid level sensor, disconnect it. This link shows where it's wire connector is: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...el-sensor.html. You'll then need to connect a fused 5 amp jumper wire, or a 12 volt test light, between terminals 2 (dark green with yellow stripe wire) and terminal 2 (tan with light green stripe wire) on the wires side of the connector. With the ignition switch on, if the brake light goes out, the sensor is malfunctioning.

Good luck.

 

...and if after all that the parking brake light is on, a solder line is likely cracked on the instrument cluster. Frequent issue that doesn't affect operation of anything. Just annoys the heck out of us...

 

I don't think that causes the ABS light, however. If the ABS light is on the system thinks something is wrong.

OP, check with Forscan or an ABS/SRS capable reader. If it doesn't specify ABS/SRS somewhere on the unit itself, it's probably not capable. You usually have to go a few steps above bottom dollar to gain this functionality. IIRC with Autel it used to begin at the AL619, but they've probably changed model numbers these days. Forscan is probably your most affordable option.

 

If you are talking about the brake light in the lower left of the cluster: This is somewhat of a common issue with this gen F-150.
Like 60DRB said: In many cases it is the connector / solder on the cluster board.
If you pop the dash piece off above the cluster, there is a large quick connect on the top left side.
On mine, if you applied a little pressure towards the windshield, the light would go out. Let it go & it comes back on.
So much fun......

I used to have a video of it somewhere, but you will get the idea.

 

Get the brake codes read.

Both lights going on at the same time, and not going off, is not caused by a bad circuit board, or a faulty brake pedal switch sensor, or the fluid level sensor. Any of those things could cause the red brake light. But it will not trigger along with the ABS light.

You will need a code reader capable of reading ABS codes.


You could use FORScan. This is free.








You could use Ford Integrated Diagnostic System. This is not free.






You could buy a code reader. Be sure that whatever you buy, it has a Ford specific user interface, and has the ability to communicate with the ABS module.








You can try to borrow a code reader from an auto parts store. Or go to a competent mechanic who will read the codes for you.

 

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Just looked at 2004 Ford Wiring Diagrams for F150 and the brake pedal position switch connects to the ABS control module, which connects to instrument cluster. Makes me highly suspicious that problem is with ABS. But, I'd remove fuse #2 to see effect since it powers the BPPS. Might give you a clue in locating the problem.

 

Not sure how many times it needs said: pull ABS codes. You likely have an unhappy WSS but pulling codes with a capable reader will eliminate all such speculation