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OK, then, this is a different situation. Let's start with the basics.
You need to connect your voltmeter to one, then the other wires at the Inertia Switch at the passenger's footwell. Key on; it should be at battery voltage, which, at wait-to-start, can be in the 11-volt range.
Or at the fuel pump if you already have a jumper there.
When the pump runs, you should feel the HFCM vibrating.
I thought he ran 12V power directly to the fuel pump connector (he said "harness, but it seems that that should be the connector at the pump itself). Got volts there, but no amp flow. Post #15.
btw - my son is implanted also, not bilaterally though. He has been since 12 yrs old.
I thought he ran 12V power directly to the fuel pump connector (he said "harness, but it seems that that should be the connector at the pump itself). Got volts there, but no amp flow. Post #15.
btw - my son is implanted also, not bilaterally though. He has been since 12 yrs old.
that’s awesome, I’ve never personally met anyone else who has been implanted with cochlears, im bilateral. What a blessing it is to be able to hear! So the fuel pump I bought from Napa came with a new harness. I tried that one as well. Neither one would work. I put a quick slice into that. It was weird when it happened my truck just died out of no where. Haven’t had time to trace the problem or even fully understand how my multimeter works yet. I plan on fixing it soon though it’s annoying having to pop my hood each time and unhook the wire. I am so thankful for this thread, and having knowledgeable people willing to help out! Thanks guys and hope everyone has a great Easter!
Seems to me if you have 12V at the power input wire at the fuel pump connector (at the HFCM), but no amp flow, then you have a grounding issue or perhaps the new fuel pump is bad.
Trying to interpret this …..I think he saying that it works as long as he has a positive wire directly to the battery and when he stops driving the truck he has to disconnect that wire. So to me, this sounds like he has a fuel pump issue in the central junction box.
Could be. I assumed he agreed w/ the assumption by giving post #20 a "like", but it could have just been the CI connection.
His pic shows a red wire going to the battery post, so who knows.....just that it is easy to get direct power to the fuel pump w/ a spare connector.
yes there is power but no amps going to the fuel pump I’m going to dig into this after work this afternoon because it’s beyond annoying popping my hood each time to disconnect the jumper wire. I think I tried the relay inside the fuse box while trying to hook up a back up camera to the reverse trigger wire. Noob here and with everything I’m doing but what better way to learn. 🤷♂️
Alright gang the new fuse panel is here I’m in the process now of putting it in my truck. I can’t find anything online telling me how to get this done. Are there any videos or does anyone feel like being a nice guy and helping me? The problem I’ve run into now there’s a long plug that has two red deals on each end. I can’t get that out also notice something that looks to be welded on here it is a ground I believe. Sorry for sounding ignorant but I truly am when it comes to these things. Thanks for any help.
