I have a 2019 F150, King Ranch, 3.5L V6 and have an issue going on with the brakes. A couple days ago, I braked fairly hard and felt like a boing Vibration in the car and right afterwards, my ABS Light, Service AdvancedTrac, Hill Assist off, Drive mode Selector Off, Parking assist off warnings came on. I got it diagnosed and it has codes C0034 and U0415. Ford told me to put a new wheel sensor and another part in, which I did. They reset the lights, I drove the vehicle maybe a quarter mile, still hearing the spring/Boing splint occurring while I was braking and and then same lights stated above came on. Anyone else have this issue or know what the issue is? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

 

Code C 0034 is a right front wheel sensor issue. Need the last two digits of the code after the # 34, to get closer to the cause.
Code U 0415, is invalid data from the ABS Module. Both codes are from the Brake system, from one fault.
The 415 code likely will clear when the 0034 is fixed. >>> invalid data<<<.
What did you do?
The noise may be some other issue.
Fix the Brake system first then worry about the noise, if still present.
Good luck.

 

The exact codes are C0034:38-ED, C0051:62-EC, and B-1111:53-28 in ABS along with U0415:00. I have already changed the front right abs wheel sensor and checked the tone ring on the axle for damage (no damage) This issue happened after I had to brake pretty hard on the highway last week. After driving again, the resistance noises occurred and all those lights came on. Here’s the thing, when the ABS light is on, the noise/resistance isn’t there when I brake, I realize it’s only there when I had reset the DTCS when the problem initially happened and when I changed the sensors. Both times when I started driving with no lights on the dash, I’d feel the resistance/boing when applying brakes and then shortly, my ABS light comes on.

 

Code Grouping:
Code U 0415:00 sets when the ABS detects an invalid signal from the RF wheel Sensor >>>>>after a 9 volt initialization, and 5 mph speed has been reached.
It can only do this test when the vehicle is moving and expects the correct signal from that RF Sensor, as the wheel turns. If not correct compared to other wheel speeds, codes are set to tell this.
If the signal is incorrect, Code C 0034:38 is set.
This is the relationship between these two codes. It appears the Wiring / Harness is in fault not the Sensor.
.
C 0051:62 indictees steering wheel position sensor signal comparison is incorrect.
The steering has two sensors involved that have to agree with the steering rack control Module. One is the Angle; the other is Torque applied to the steering wheel by the operator. These signals tell the Module how far to move the Rack and How fast and when to stop movement because the rack is moved by a DC motor.
Is there a relationship to the wheel and the steering Rack from some damage?
.
Code B 1111;53 Is detected as an over temperature in the driver seat but could be from the Steering Rack depending on the code application in the specific vehicle. The Rack can also offer an over temp code. So this one may present a problem Identifying the source of the code.
.
There is some kind of damage like an Accident, hit something or / and Wire harness damage.
You have to go beyond just replacing parts and find the Root causes of all these separate issues and noises.
I only have your codes to go by, like a Doctor does for a patient before the cure is attempted.
If codes are not accurate, it would mislead the diagnostics and cure.
Best I can do for you from a distance.
Good luck.

 

Did you have the front shocks replaced recently? The brakes and related wheel speed sensors have to be removed to do so. If a competent tech didn't install the springs properly on the new shock, there will be no preload on the springs at times, like after you brake hard. The when the load transfers off the front end, the spring may be loose enough for the "boing" you hear.

The wheel speed sensor and ABS sensor could have easily been damaged if the guy replacing shocks didn't know to disconnect those sensor leads from the knuckle, and to remove the sensor from it spot near the hub.

 

I have not any work done to the car. Every maintenance was completed by Ford themselves. Trying to get a hold of a tech there with no luck. I will have to check the recommendations above but other than that, replacing the sensor and ring tone (which was recommended to me by Ford) did not do the trick

 

Did you by the truck recently or buy it new?

Can you load a video of the noise?

Ford didn't work on the truck, a dealer did. Ford dealers are not operated by Ford, they are franchises. Generally, the better mechanics work for independent shops, as the pay is better. Most dealers will only have one or two experienced techs who are able to figure things out without a code from a diagnostic computer. The rest pull a code, and replace the part that the code references, nothing more.

 

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If you have Electric emergency brakes you most likely have a rusted, corrosion locked caliper adjuster that keeps the pads in line with the rotor. It most likely never had lube in it
from the original mfg. for ford. happens all the time. No grease was ever put on the pins that slide. I woiuld start there with a new Caliper and go on to ford to diagnose the Lights. The Caliper repair needs the Electric emg. brakes to be set for Maintenance. There are videos on you tube to show you the easy procedure to set them for Maintenace mode.
Of coiurse it could be the same problem on a front brake, just not the emergency screw motor mounted to the calipers. The speed sensors and front wheel bearings
should be just fine. Do you hear, feel a rumble from hitting a pot hole. If so the wheel bearing will be flatting some, you can tell by turning the steering wheel. Noise
will get less or worse, usually lessen near gone. The steering system tries to correct for the hump in the road so you need to turn the steering wheel with little traffic
to stay safe.