When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I am finding it odd that there are squirters in the hood, a fluid bag, washer motor, but no wiring from the factory? I can't find anything on wiring diagrams anywhere. My switch has a "pull out" motion which I am assuming is the washer part of the switch. I can't find anywhere where a wire may have been cut or removed. What's the deal?
It was its own separate wire from the firewall forward. Look for *17A674 in this drawing. 5 places total but one is for 1965 and early 1966 - the pushbutton 11500 they used. The close-up of the motor shows the wire coming in the top. It's just a 12V feed. The ground for the pump comes for the brass strap to a screw goes through that secures it to the inner fender. So, make sure your inner fender is connected to common ground one way or the other.
The brass strap can be seen on the left side with the single mounting screw.
It was its own separate wire from the firewall forward. Look for *17A674 in this drawing. 5 places total but one is for 1965 and early 1966 - the pushbutton 11500 they used. The close-up of the motor shows the wire coming in the top. It's just a 12V feed. The ground for the pump comes for the brass strap to a screw goes through that secures it to the inner fender. So, make sure your inner fender is connected to common ground one way or the other.
The brass strap can be seen on the left side with the single mounting screw.
Haha Bluetooth Washers! So this is the only single wire I have coming out of the firewall.. and it goes to the oil pressure/temp switch. Once I get the battery back in this thing I'll have to do some testing methinks.
Just from the pictures as far as I can see it looks to me like someone removed the windshield washer fluid bag as well as the bracket that held it to the inner fender. The screw holes for the bracket are still there. The clip is still there holding the wire, but it seems the wire has been repurposed to supply the signal from the sending unit. The sending unit didn't originally connect to a wire running along the apron but did connect to a wire running past the coil mounting location along the carburetor side of the driver side valve cover to that spot.
C1AZ-17618-D - RESERVOIR - WINDSHIELD WASHER - Integral cap - bag type
C4AZ-17651-A - BRACKET - WINDSHIELD WASHER RESERVOIR MOUNTING - Used with switch-actuated washer
17A674 - No full part number on this wire since it was serviced by cutting new wire from a bulk roll and installing new connectors. But, I've seen a few trucks that used the same wire with the connector being rubber coated like this. It's faded some but if you look close you can probably see the white line on this black wire same as your wire.
It looks like your wire may have been cut a bit shorter and they put a new connector on it at the sending unit.
So I have the original bracket that was on the truck and a bag to suit it, it's off right now to paint it. I'm trying to tidy the truck up a bit. That wire does look the same, including the grommet. That white wire in the last pic runs long the valve cover as you mentioned and it also goes to an oil switch or sensor of some sort, I'm not sure which of those switches/sensors do what.
While snooping around today I discovered this pic, which shows just the one sensor on the oil filter housing, so I'm thinking someone at some point added in the other sensor for some reason. So I am thinking I'll just remove all that crap and return it to stock and use that wire for what it was meant (hopefully) for.
All trucks came with the idiot light which used the small switch (turns idiot light on or off at a preset pressure threshold) which in your picture has the blue portion. There was the option (standard on some trucks) for the oil pressure and ammeter gauges. The optional oil pressure gauge used the sender like the larger one in your picture. The senders, unlike a switch, are more like a variable resistor so it works with the gauge which varies over a wide scale of pressures. If it only had the idiot light then it didn't have a fitting, but if it had both then they used the fitting. It's easy enough to buy a fitting over the counter and add the gauge. You could always unplug the wire and move it to the washer pump and remove the fitting and just put the gauge sender into the oil filter housing directly like in your last picture. The idiot light is sort of a nice backup to have. Might be worth running a new wire for it. Your choice.
So I have an oil gauge (and ammeter) and an idiot light, neither of which I am sure work or not tbh. Thanks for explaining what switch/sender does what though, that's helpful. I still gotta figure out the wiring conundrum then. It seems that the wire that is going to my idiot light switch "should" be for the washers.
Where should the wire that goes along that valve cover connect to? Based on the pic in my last post, should it go to that gauge sender?
I have three things that need wires, but only two wires lol. Seems clear that the wire I have going along the inner apron is meant for the washers. which leaves me a wire short for either the gauge sender or the idiot light switch.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
