When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have some issues with both of my front cab mount brackets that are riveted to the frame. My driver side front cab bracket is rotted a bit in the bolt hole. I saw that they make a repair piece that looks like a washer. You cut out the rot and weld in the washer. Since I don’t have welder, I’d probably just replace the whole bracket. But do I need to replace it? What’s left is actually pretty solid.
Now on the passenger side, the bracket is bent back towards the rear. I didn’t check the up/down, but the center of the mount is 3/4” farther back than the passenger side. I guess I’ll have to look closer and compare to the body building book you guys posted. This side I’m sure can be fixed with a come-a-long and a few taps with a sledge.
What would you guys do? I’m almost thinking just replace them both?
What are you wanting the result to be? Show ... or ... Useful? You say the one with rot is otherwise solid. Clean it, soften the pointy parts, rust treat it, and paint will likely last a long time. Don't know what year or if it uses full fender splash shields ('77 and newer) that look to better protect from splash ... or ... just smaller flat rubber ('76 back) flap like shields further in the fender towards the door? If the ragged hole is as big or bigger than a bushing, then it'll need a washer above and below.
How did the other side get moved 3/4" rearwards? Wreck? It could be pulled back.
I expect that even if you put a mirror under it and parked it in a show, no one would take note.
Thanks for the reply.
I was thinking of using a washer or plate. The top rubber is much larger, and the extra washer underneath wouldn’t add anything to the height.
The truck is a 77-1/2. The original cab was rotted, and I parted a ‘79 with a friend, so that’s what’s on it now. It must have been hit. It was always buckled a little on that side. I have a replacement fender from years ago, I just never put it on. The ‘79 cab was mounted using 4” round blank plates for electrical jb’s with hockey pucks for bushings. Whatever it took to get it back out into the woods.
I flipped the frame right side up again, leveled it out, and took some more measurements. Not only is it 3/4” back, it’s also 3/4” higher. So far I’ve only been comparing it to the driver side. I’ve searched here for measurements to top of frame etc…but haven’t found anything.
Does anyone know what the location is supposed to be for the two front cab mount brackets?
From front cab mount to rear cab mount centers, look like 50.51" if rears are outside the frame, but 51.11" if rear cab mounts are inside the frame.
As I see it, pull a string line across two rear mount hole centers, and a string line across the two front mount hole centers, the two lines wound be parallel and 50.51 or 51.11 inches apart as the case may be. I don't think the measurements are intended from hole to hole, but rather line to line. The two front cab mounts are further apart, so measurements from a front hole to a rear hole would not be parallel to the imaginary center of the frame, it would be a longer line of measure being skewed.
If the frame is stripped and raised off the floor, leveled, drop a plumb bob to the floor through each hole center and mark on the floor, then measure front to rear line on the floor.
As far as I have ever seen, left matches right when looking at vertical location. I don't recall seeing a measurement, perhaps you can locate one to look at?
Thanks! That’s perfect.
I'm going to straighten them today. I just have that, drill out/remove the rear cab bushings, and cut out the outer sleeve of the shackle bushings in the frame. Then I have all my ducks in a row. I received my order from Eastwood last week. I’ll just be waiting for the first 70+ day to final clean/blast the frame and paint.
I got it pulled back into place yesterday. It took a few attempts. I had a Warn Pullzall hooked to the driver’s side frame horn at the bottom, a ****** block with some wrapped around chain on the cab mount, and then back to the passenger side frame horn at the bottom. I have a welded steel front bumper still attached, so I wasn’t worried about bending the front of the frame. The way it was attached got it to pull down as well as forward. With all the tension, and solid whacks, it would still spring back. The last time I heated it up with a MAP gas torch for a few minutes, then worked the corners in good with a wide brick chisel and lump hammer. Then a few more slams with the sledge for good measure. This time it barely sprung back, so I’m gonna call it good. It’s within an 1/16” in height compared to the other side, and both sides are about 50-1/4” from the center of the rear cab mounts. My rear cab mounts sit inside the frame.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
