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1000 grit is too fine - probably not enough tooth for paint to bite into.
Single stage is usually good at 320/400 range and 2 stage (base/clear) is usually good at 500/600 range
Wax and grease remover is also needed to help with a clean bonding surface. Also rubbing alcohol works and some have good luck with windex etc but I have no experience with that.
Would also recommend automotive refinishing tapes instead of hardware store general duty tapes. Automotive tapes are designed to seal better and release easier than hardware store tapes.
THIS ^^^
I have painted MANY vehicles and the problem was no "tooth" in the primer. ALL of my single stage gets sprayed over 320 grit final and a wipe down of solvent. Even my 2 stage base typically goes on 400 grit.
I have painted MANY vehicles and the problem was no "tooth" in the primer. ALL of my single stage gets sprayed over 320 grit final and a wipe down of solvent. Even my 2 stage base typically goes on 400 grit.
The same results can be had with any paint really... longevity may be an issue between brands. I have actually seen a few roll on jobs that turned out pretty decent. For the OBS trucks, I have seen single stage and two stage paint from the factory. My 95 pickup has single stage paint code PB- pacific green. Why some Fords got single stage vs. 2 stage is beyond me. As a result though, the prep for painting varies quite a bit, pending on clear coat degradation or whatnot.
The same results can be had with any paint really... longevity may be an issue between brands. I have actually seen a few roll on jobs that turned out pretty decent. For the OBS trucks, I have seen single stage and two stage paint from the factory. My 95 pickup has single stage paint code PB- pacific green. Why some Fords got single stage vs. 2 stage is beyond me. As a result though, the prep for painting varies quite a bit, pending on clear coat degradation or whatnot.
I found roll on with tractor enamel is meh but the moment you put hardener in the mix it levels so well and becomes very nice, but that also probably depends on the type of roller. I was using a 4 inch wide cabinet door roller on barely prepped flat steel, so it has a little bit of "orange" peel but im sure if I actually cleaned it would be pretty.
rustolium mixed 60/40 with acetone will cure in about 20 minutes at 70 degrees.
I have done this before when painting my car hauler.
Rustoleum actually recommends thinning with acetone to thin it enough to spray it and it dries very quickly- not the 2 weeks that is customary with Rustoleum out of the can.
My car hauler sits in the weather 24/7 in WA and 5 years later the blue Rustoleum paint w/o hardener is very faded.
I have done this before when painting my car hauler.
Rustoleum actually recommends thinning with acetone to thin it enough to spray it and it dries very quickly- not the 2 weeks that is customary with Rustoleum out of the can.
My car hauler sits in the weather 24/7 in WA and 5 years later the blue Rustoleum paint w/o hardener is very faded.
if you had put hardener in, what would it look like?
Your guess is as good as mine.
Never done it.
In fact never have seen Rustoleum hardener only the Majik brand at TSC. They are probably cross brand acceptable but don't know for sure.
Your guess is as good as mine.
Never done it.
In fact never have seen Rustoleum hardener only the Majik brand at TSC. They are probably cross brand acceptable but don't know for sure.
The Majik brand hardener works with Rustoleum. The Old 55 did as well. I used to buy it from Fleet Farm which is just like tractor supply.
The hardener gives a better more durable gloss to the paint. I always felt the tractor and implement paints worked better than rustolium myself, but thats just one mans opinion for what it's worth. Nowdays I stick to strictly urethane automotive paints.
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