I was finally replacing my parking brake cables today and noticed that the right rear brake assembly was covered in differential fluid. I assume that means the seals are shot and I need to replace them, as well as the shoes on that side.

I'm not sure I know exactly how to ID the correct part I need. It seems there are several rear ends for each year/model. Based on the door tag and Gary's website I believe I have the for 10.25 floating rear end. Can anyone point me in the direction of the exact seals I would need to replace?





I watched a video which appears to be the same rear end, but haven't dug into mine to verify.

 

Yes that is a 10.25, the tag held on with one of the rear cover bolts on the right side will have codes stamped into it that will confirm this.

 

Great, thanks!

It looks like there are 2 different bearing sizes 2.25 and 2.65, depending on if it has Ford axles. The Rear Axle Application Chart on Gary's website does say Ford in regards to a C9 axle code. Is it safe to assume that meat it's the 2.65 bearing?

 

This says 2.65 for full floater bearing etc.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRGBR3992K

 

Make sure you get the repair seal, they are better at not leaking. Autozone sells them part number 370047A. It's over $30 for that seal, but it's worth it. You might be able to google that number and get it cheaper somewhere else online.

 

Thanks!

I'm going to pick up two tomorrow. I assume it's best to change the O-rings and wheel bearings as well? The only specialty tool I think I'll need is the spindle nut socket. Does that sound right?

 

Socket tool is best, sometimes you can get it with a screwdriver and a hammer. I would not replace the bearings unless they look bad. If there is plenty of oil in the rear axle, they rarely go bad. Look for little black spots on the rollers and the race (pitting).

 

So I replaced this seal months ago with the one Dave recommended. At the time I didn't know what the torque specs (# of clicks) were for the axle nut and didn't torque it down enough. After a couple of weeks I noticed oil leaking from the axle onto the brakes. I found the Ford repair specs on Gary's website and followed that for the correct number of clicks using the old bearings. I cleaned up the brakes and reassembled everything.

After the first repair and still now I notice a kind of clicking, or chatter when backing up. The truck didn't do this before the replacement. It does not do it when moving forward, maybe slightly when turned hard over. As I type this out I wonder if I need to add friction modifier to the differential oil? The stuff from Orielly's that I put in said it already had friction modifier in it. If that is indeed the solution, why would the chatter be so noticeable in reverse (even in a straight line) and not so much in forward? If that's not the solution, anyone have any ideas? Brake shoes grabbing the drum? They looked clean, but at one point were completely covered in gear oil.

 

I dont care how much washing you do to brake shoes of oil or brake fluid they will always grab differently than non-wet / washed ones.
I did not go back over posts do you have a LS / Traction Lock unit installed? If not then that is not the problem.

If backing up and you add a little brake what happens?

I had a factory GM LS 10 bolt that when backing up in a turn would bang like someone took a big hammer and hit the rear end housing.
It was ok going forward even in a tight turn.
Turned out to be the clutch discs move and wore a hole in the carrier and backing up would catch something and when it snapped free would make the noise.
Truck only had 12K miles in less than a year so out of warrenty so I had to foot the bill
Dave ----

 

Coming back to what seems like a recurring project. I seem to have gotten the passenger side sorted and recently noticed the same leaking from the driver's side. Having done one before, I dove right in and swapped out the seal no problem. When I went to tighten the clicking nut I realized that my torque wrench only worked in the clockwise direction. I figured what the hell and just torqued it down to what felt similar to the other side.

Everything seemed to work fine for a couple of months until I noticed my brakes starting to grab again. Popped off the brake drum today and noticed the seal was leaking again. When I removed the hub and bearings I noticed that the inner bearing had some wear on it that was not there before. It was worn on the inside of the bearing, where it would ride on the spindle (is that the right word). I decided to see if I could notice any crunch in the bearings or anything else odd, so I put the hub and bearings back on, and no matter how hard I torqued the clicking nut, the hub spun very easily. Like one finger on the lug nut could spin the thing.

I assumed that wasn't good and that the seal was bad. I mean it was leaking all over the place so it has to be bad, right? I got new bearings and a new seal and replaced everything, this time torquing to 60 ft/lbs and backing off 5 clicks.

The main reason I update this is to ask - would incorrectly torquing the nut the first time cause a problem such as this? Could carrying too much weight (like lets just say if some person who will remain nameless hauled 3000 pounds of gravel a couple of times, and maybe an equal amount of lumber over a mountain) in the bed cause this?

I also noticed some pitting on the spindle where the hub seal makes its seal. Could that be the culprit?

 

I would say the pitting was the cause and not how tight the nut was unless it was really lose.
Get some rally fine Emrey paper and clean up where the seal rides.
Make sure you put oil or grease on the seal lip when putting it back together.
Dave ----

 

You don’t think that would make it worse?

If I had already installed the new seal and put the hub on would it be okay to take it back off and clean it up? I don’t know why the rubber wouldn’t like going on and then coming back off, but there’s a lot I don’t know.

 

Depending on how many miles are on that seat you might be ok.
The pits act like little knives and cut the rubber and more so if you did not coat it with oil or grease before install.
Dave ----

 

I just replaced it this afternoon and drove about a mile to get the differential oil level situated. I'll take it off in the morning to see if I can get the pitting cleaned up. What grit emery cloth would you recommend?

 

Fine grit
You just want to remove the rust and any pitting but not leave scratch marks.
Wipe it clean and put lube on the tube & seal.
I think you will be fine
Dave -----