Failed smog
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 114
I forgot to ask in this post, did I test it right? Im pretty confident that the EVR needs to be changed.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 2,258
Likes: 742
From: Maryland
If you applied vacuum to the bottom port and the top port was still connected to the EGR valve or capped off, it should have held vacuum.
Also the resistance readings across the terminals of the EVR valve should be 70 OHMS.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 114
I never capped either off but I applied vacuum to both of them with power to it.
Neither held but I never saw anything saying to cap one or the other off.
But should I just buy one, see if it fixes it. And then if it doesn’t return it? Otherwise I have to loan the tools and stuff at my auto shop class cause I don’t have a power probe or long alligator clips yet. There was no audible click either from it. Something’s not opening the EGR, and the EVP passed the test it’s new.
Neither held but I never saw anything saying to cap one or the other off.
But should I just buy one, see if it fixes it. And then if it doesn’t return it? Otherwise I have to loan the tools and stuff at my auto shop class cause I don’t have a power probe or long alligator clips yet. There was no audible click either from it. Something’s not opening the EGR, and the EVP passed the test it’s new.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 2,258
Likes: 742
From: Maryland
I never capped either off but I applied vacuum to both of them with power to it.
Neither held but I never saw anything saying to cap one or the other off.
But should I just buy one, see if it fixes it. And then if it doesn’t return it? Otherwise I have to loan the tools and stuff at my auto shop class cause I don’t have a power probe or long alligator clips yet. There was no audible click either from it. Something’s not opening the EGR, and the EVP passed the test it’s new.
Neither held but I never saw anything saying to cap one or the other off.
But should I just buy one, see if it fixes it. And then if it doesn’t return it? Otherwise I have to loan the tools and stuff at my auto shop class cause I don’t have a power probe or long alligator clips yet. There was no audible click either from it. Something’s not opening the EGR, and the EVP passed the test it’s new.
The top nipple gets the line that goes to the EGR valve.
With electricity supplied, the EVR solenoid should let vacuum through, to the EGR valve and hold vacuum.
With no power supplied, and the vacuum pump connected to the bottom nipple, vacuum should bleed off.
If you leave the top nipple open and apply vacuum to the bottom nipple and power to the EVR, no vacuum will build.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 114
So it has a new EVR and it still has code 34 KOER. Is the vacuum leak on the intake manifold not allowing it to have enough vacuum to actuate the EGR? It does have a new EVP from a 3-4 months ago.
I did suck on the green line to the EGR it does hold vacuum
I will swap to the old EVP see if that changes the code, if not I’ll put the new one back on.
I tried to test the wires to the PCM but I can’t find the EVP wires in the loom since there’s so many similar wires.
I tested voltage to the EVR with the KOEO it’s 11.31v
I did suck on the green line to the EGR it does hold vacuum
I will swap to the old EVP see if that changes the code, if not I’ll put the new one back on.
I tried to test the wires to the PCM but I can’t find the EVP wires in the loom since there’s so many similar wires.
I tested voltage to the EVR with the KOEO it’s 11.31v
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,534
Likes: 2,664
From: Near Salt Lake City
I'm thinking
Does the vacuum can hold vacuum to properly supply enough steady vacuum to the EVR?
Run through those pinpoint test steps again for code 34
It might have the wrong EVP on it
the computer is saying that the valve is open when it is closed (apparently)
That could be the wrong color EVP sending the wrong voltage to the PCM
Does the vacuum can hold vacuum to properly supply enough steady vacuum to the EVR?
Run through those pinpoint test steps again for code 34
It might have the wrong EVP on it
the computer is saying that the valve is open when it is closed (apparently)
That could be the wrong color EVP sending the wrong voltage to the PCM
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 114
I will test the vacuum can. And how can I tell which EVP it needs? It had a grey, I replaced it with white, but then I learned of the color differences so I returned the white and got a grey. The grey one that I replaced wasn’t a motorcraft the previous owner(s) did a bunch of crap to it that wasn’t right. So I don’t know which it would’ve needed.
I’m thinking you’re right on the EVP color being wrong most of the trucks online use a white one whenever I look up under hood pictures. I’ll go to my parts catalog in a few and see what comes up when I look that part number up.
But when I have that 11.31v KOEO and the EGR is closed, it should really be 0 until the computer opens it?
If thats the case, why wouldn’t it be stumbling at idle with it actuating the solenoid to open the EGR?
I’m thinking you’re right on the EVP color being wrong most of the trucks online use a white one whenever I look up under hood pictures. I’ll go to my parts catalog in a few and see what comes up when I look that part number up.
But when I have that 11.31v KOEO and the EGR is closed, it should really be 0 until the computer opens it?
If thats the case, why wouldn’t it be stumbling at idle with it actuating the solenoid to open the EGR?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
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This is the part number for the 302 this is 87 though mines 88. I’ll get my calibration number off the truck tomorrow and match it to what this says. But there’s gotta be 100+ pages of these so I’m not gonna read all them when I can search the document for my calibration number. Especially because mines a CA model I believe so it’s harder to find.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB219023?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&camp aign=GSC-Fasteners-Hardware&campaign_id=10947735022&adgroup_id=107081 865346&adtype=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjwzN-vBhAkEiwAYiO7oOfy3c0j3H6QR-tM-jH00wVq8wuwb2e6N0iW3O61XGl0ybZvhFAmgxoCuAgQAvD_BwE &gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1
which I believe my truck should have this.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 2,258
Likes: 742
From: Maryland
I don't have a vacuum sticker under my hood, so I had to find one on line and use it as a guide.
The one I found, has the EVR getting its own vacuum line straight from the vacuum tree, so that's what I did.
I ran the TAD and TAB solenoids off the vacuum reserve coffee can.
You've got the vacuum supply going to the bottom nipple on the EVR solenoid, right? Then the top nipple sends vacuum to the EGR valve, when the computer tells it to.
The one I found, has the EVR getting its own vacuum line straight from the vacuum tree, so that's what I did.
I ran the TAD and TAB solenoids off the vacuum reserve coffee can.
You've got the vacuum supply going to the bottom nipple on the EVR solenoid, right? Then the top nipple sends vacuum to the EGR valve, when the computer tells it to.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,534
Likes: 2,664
From: Near Salt Lake City
The EGR valve is not open is why it does not die at idle
The problem is a sensor issue IMO
The calibration number tells Ford parts what EVP you need
Grey is aftermarket?
I believe Ford had just black and white EVPs IIRR
The problem is a sensor issue IMO
The calibration number tells Ford parts what EVP you need
Grey is aftermarket?
I believe Ford had just black and white EVPs IIRR
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 114
I will double check the vacuum lines, but I believe that the EGR is on top. And the grey I believe is just companies cheaping out or something on it so it’s still their version of black I believe. I never had a black one on my truck the whole time I’ve owned it. So that just confirmed my theory on it being replaced by the PO. I will look at the calibration code and post what my specified part number is.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 114
I think the EVP is why it failed smog. I looked it up, in my parts manual. For my calibration code the part number to the EVP is e7tf 9g428-aa.
That part number leads to this: https://www.ebay.com/p/1423575706
So if I get this: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB2...s&gad_source=1
My issues theoretically should be solved?
I will test the motorcraft evr again properly, and if it passes should I replace the new one with that? I bought a standard ignition red streak EVR. It was $30.
That part number leads to this: https://www.ebay.com/p/1423575706
So if I get this: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB2...s&gad_source=1
My issues theoretically should be solved?
I will test the motorcraft evr again properly, and if it passes should I replace the new one with that? I bought a standard ignition red streak EVR. It was $30.