Question about Cylinder Heads
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 258
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From: New Jersey
Question about Cylinder Heads
Doing cups and was pulling off the old UVCH. Looked like itd been in there awhile. The zip ties on the GPs were brittle and a few snapped. I think I recovered all of them but obviously I’m concerned about missing one. Is there anywhere in the head that would act as a screen to keep something that size from winding up in the bottom end? Planning to get in there good in the AM with my 1/4” attachment nozzle to my shop-vac but Im paranoid.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 3,198
Likes: 1,698
I wouldnt be to worried about a plastic zip tie. Worse could happen is it makes it to the oil pans and lies there the rest of its life. The oil pickup has a screen on it. I would just. Look for it in the head somewhere and if I didn't see it I would just put it back together and run it.
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 258
Likes: 59
From: New Jersey
I wouldnt be to worried about a plastic zip tie. Worse could happen is it makes it to the oil pans and lies there the rest of its life. The oil pickup has a screen on it. I would just. Look for it in the head somewhere and if I didn't see it I would just put it back together and run it.
Question for you - where does the oil drain to when you pull the plugs to the rail? Is there small drain holes down on the spring side of the head? I know it goes back to the pan eventually
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2022
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There is a drain hole at the front and back at the bottom near the valve cover lip.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
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From: Ponca City, OK
I wouldn't pull the oil rail drain plugs personally. They are metric but just close enough to a SAE size to strip them out and not be able to get them torqued properly. Plus you'll need new o rings for them and I never seem to find them quite the right size, and if you were a little concerned about a zip tie then you'll really be tempting fate pulling those little *******s right over top of the valve train.
If you're pulling injectors just pull 7 and 8 first and let everything drain there. You'll have to vac out cylinders either way so not worth the risk in my opinion. If it's for some other repair just pull whatever it is and let the oil fall where it may. Still beats dealing w/ those plugs when they decide to start leaking.
If you're pulling injectors just pull 7 and 8 first and let everything drain there. You'll have to vac out cylinders either way so not worth the risk in my opinion. If it's for some other repair just pull whatever it is and let the oil fall where it may. Still beats dealing w/ those plugs when they decide to start leaking.
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 258
Likes: 59
From: New Jersey
I wouldn't pull the oil rail drain plugs personally. They are metric but just close enough to a SAE size to strip them out and not be able to get them torqued properly. Plus you'll need new o rings for them and I never seem to find them quite the right size, and if you were a little concerned about a zip tie then you'll really be tempting fate pulling those little *******s right over top of the valve train.
If you're pulling injectors just pull 7 and 8 first and let everything drain there. You'll have to vac out cylinders either way so not worth the risk in my opinion. If it's for some other repair just pull whatever it is and let the oil fall where it may. Still beats dealing w/ those plugs when they decide to start leaking.
If you're pulling injectors just pull 7 and 8 first and let everything drain there. You'll have to vac out cylinders either way so not worth the risk in my opinion. If it's for some other repair just pull whatever it is and let the oil fall where it may. Still beats dealing w/ those plugs when they decide to start leaking.
yeah i actually pulled 3 and 4 and let it run there since its easier to clean up. Have a small hose attachment to suck whatever out of the cylinder.
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