hello to all it has been awhile since i was on here been busy but anyhow i just put together my 472 (460 60 over) it is a roller moter with a 680 lift cam and venolia dome pistons and ported and bigger valved c8ve-e heads i would say it has about 13-1 comp it dose still have the factory 6qt oil pan with a hi volum oil pump it is a truck pulling motor so it hits 7000rpm+ for about 15-20 seconds i have 3 runs on it and all the oil seems to be going to the top it dose blow out the breathers and the oil pressure gets down to about 5-10 psi at the end of the run i did try to block off the oil passage to the top end by screwing in the plug but it didnt seem to matter i dont think it is getting blowby due to the gapless totle seal rings and it dosent smoke at all i am looking into a 10qt oil pan from a 2ton but i dont know what else to do any one with advice please i am lost thanxs

 

I have read several post on inproving drain back. I know they added drain holes at the front of the block. They allso talked about checking to see if your drainback holes wern't parthiley blocked by flash gaskets ect. You might do a serch and I am shure some of the more knolegable people will chime in.
Bill

 

If you do a little looking you will find the drain back holes in the heads don't line up perfectly with the ones in the block. What I did was to set the heads on the block then take a drill bit just small enough to barely fit down the hole in the head and lightly drill the top of the block surface enough to leave a mark then remove the head and with a die grinder champher that hole towards your mark then do the head slighlty the oppisite direction so it will drain properly. Next it has been discovered that some factory block didn't actually have the rear drain holes in the lifter gallery drilled through so you might want to check those too. Another "trick" is to drill the backside of the heads right above the drain back holes thread with 3/8" npt then screw a fitting into that and another fitting into the oilpan and run a hose (I prefer to use AN fittings and braided hose) this will provide faster drain back when the head begins to fill up with oil, I have also heard of this bieng done on the rear chna wall of the block. Another option that helps is to run restrictor pushrods or to put a roll pin into each pushrod oil hole, and this will restrict the amount of oil going to the heads but will still provide enough to lube the rockers and valves.

 

thanxs monster i messaged you with a few more details i was hopeful you would help me out when i have this issue you were the firts person i thought of that could possibly help so what you recomend a 10qt oil pan out of an old 2ton truck or a 8qt morosso typ? i can get both but the 10qt is cheaper and also is the plug i made to try to restrict the oil going to the top end a good or bad idea? thaxs guys and please keep on with the advice it is much needed i am still green the engin building but trying to learn as much as possibly i am kinda poor and cant afforf to build a new motor every year so i need the make what i got last i am shure most of ya know whaty i mean

 

if you can get the 10 qt cheaper, then I would think about running it, also do you have a windage tray in the engine? if not I would look into getting one. That might be the advantage of the moroso pan as some had crank scrapers and/or windage trays in them, I personally am running a moroso 8qt pan with a windage tray in my engine.

 

i will call and see if it comes with a windege tray it dosent say but i only looked at summit and jegs and comp products also is restricting the flow to the top end buy takeing a stock plug and grinding a few treds off the top of the screw to get it in farther a bad idea the guy that helped me do it done it to another motor i know of and it worked great but the other motor is a flat top motor so maybe dun to his lower compression he might not have the issue like i have? or could it just be as simple as i just dont have enuff oil with a 6qt pan? i am also wondering when i took my truck to guy that i know he is a good known builder for chevy's also a good frend he adjusted my rockers and i think he adjusted them all to .022 but i looked up my cam and they recomend .018 on the int and 0.20 on the ext could that also play a role?

 

No lash will not play a role in oil control issues for the most part. but he has them set too tight if he set them to .022 cold but not that bad actually. If you are setting iron heads cold I use cam specs plus .005 for the intial setting (Alum heads you go the oppisite direction) so the setting I would ahve used cold would have been .025, and .023 then readjust to specs after warmed up.
I am guessing your going to find a bigger pan will eliminate 95% of your oil issues that extra couple of quarts will make a world of difference.

 

i am kinda confused so 22 is 2 tight but why would the cam specs call for 18 and 20? i can hear a little bit of rocker play when it is running it dosent seem to affect it thou you can barly hear it and also one more thing is it a good idea to make baffels in the valve covers under each breather? and would you recomend evack tubes?

 

no you are confusing cold and hot lash, with iron heads the lash tightens up as the engine gets hot so you set them looser by approx .005 cold then when it heats up it's supposed to end up pretty close to spec.
using baffles under the breathers is always a good idea if you have clearence, and running evac tubes isn't a bad idea but you need to get the oil drainback issues solved first.

 

thanxs monster i am gonna try the bigger oil pan and check out my drains i think i will get the 10 qt pan than buy a windage tray or is it a better idea to get the 8qt and get one with that? and i might look into oil defectors i see they r cheap but not shure if they will work with stud gertls i dont have them yet but plan on it asap