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No Compression Cylinder 5

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Old Apr 2, 2024 | 11:08 PM
  #16  
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So I managed to get the valve cover off (took a few hours a rounded bolt head, and a test of patience), but it was too dark to take any photos. I'll try tomorrow. What am I looking for? Since it is cylinder 5, it is all the way in the back and I could not get a good visual, but I'll take my phone and try to get some photos. Also, I thought the bolts stayed with the valve cover, but every one came out. Is this normal/am I thinking of a different engine?
 
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Old Apr 3, 2024 | 06:26 AM
  #17  
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the bolts are not captive, they will come out of the cover, never have i seen a round valve cover both, they don't need a lot of torque to seal to the head,
if it is a spring which i highly doubt you will see the the coils not looking like the others, if it's a stuck valve there will be a lot of space between the rocker and camshaft lobes
 
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Old Apr 3, 2024 | 12:47 PM
  #18  
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Here are a couple images I was able to get. I cannot really see much with it being in the back. Hopefully you guys see something obvious. I also took my cheap bore scope, bent it in a U and stick it down the plug hole to get a little glimpse of the valves. The one thing I noticed is shown in the first photo, the line in the middle, I didn't notice that on anything else.
Thanks for your continued help.






 
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Old Apr 3, 2024 | 03:36 PM
  #19  
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Great photos, especially for being under the cowl. Looks like a lot of carbon in the combustion chamber, which suggests oil.

How does the top of the piston look?

A leakdown test is your next free diagnostic option, one that would tell definitively where the compression is going. Rig a setup to go into the spark plug hole where you can run a compressor into it, with intake and exhaust valves closed, then listen to see where it's going.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2024 | 04:30 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by '89F2urd
Great photos, especially for being under the cowl. Looks like a lot of carbon in the combustion chamber, which suggests oil.

How does the top of the piston look?

A leakdown test is your next free diagnostic option, one that would tell definitively where the compression is going. Rig a setup to go into the spark plug hole where you can run a compressor into it, with intake and exhaust valves closed, then listen to see where it's going.
I'll need to look into rigging up something to get air in for a leak down. Nobody I know has a tester and I don't think they loan them out at the auto stores. Will just plugging the injector back in be good enough to keep air from escaping from that hole?
How do I know if the valves are closed? The look closed, or close to it, from looking at it from the the cylinder, but I assume the camshaft will tell me for sure. What is the easiest way to turn the engine over to where I need to?
As far as oil, for what it's worth, it didn't burn oil on the journey from Colorado to Montana, and it doesn't blow blue smoke.

Here are a couple photos of the piston top from awhile ago that I guess I didn't share. Not sure it shows enough detail, but hopefully so.



 

Last edited by yknotgo; Apr 4, 2024 at 08:58 AM. Reason: Corrected does to doesn't regarding blue smoke.
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Old Apr 3, 2024 | 06:13 PM
  #21  
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That piston and cylinder look beat up, with high carbon buildup....unless thats something you did with the bore scope.

Move the piston down so you can see the walls too. All arrows point to it being a trash cylinder from foreign debris, unfortunately.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2024 | 09:08 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by yknotgo
Here are a couple images I was able to get. I cannot really see much with it being in the back. Hopefully you guys see something obvious. I also took my cheap bore scope, bent it in a U and stick it down the plug hole to get a little glimpse of the valves. The one thing I noticed is shown in the first photo, the line in the middle, I didn't notice that on anything else.
Thanks for your continued help.




That really looks like it had an insert was installed in the plug hole and the debris was never cleaned out of the cylinder, they should has packed the ream and thread tool with grease to catch most of it and then vacuum out the cylinder to get the rest. If you look at what's on the top of the piston it looks like what you get when you cut a thread.

Denny
 
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Old Apr 3, 2024 | 10:26 PM
  #23  
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I can confirm the cylinder has an insert. It came out when I pulled the plugs originally. I don't think I hit the piston enough with the bore scope to cause that pattern either.
I will try to move the piston down some and see if I can get any images of the cylinder walls, that it may be rough as I don't have a bore scope that articulates and it's hard to bend once I insert it.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2024 | 02:43 AM
  #24  
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yes it sure looks like something embedded in the piston top which COULD mean it has a bent valve head that could be the cause of zero compression, that line in the rocker roller is from a binding roller, some blue smoke? blue is oil,white and sweet smelling is coolant .
IMMO
the winner of that sale is the seller in CO,
 
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Old Apr 4, 2024 | 09:10 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by charlie g
yes it sure looks like something embedded in the piston top which COULD mean it has a bent valve head that could be the cause of zero compression, that line in the rocker roller is from a binding roller, some blue smoke? blue is oil,white and sweet smelling is coolant .
IMMO
the winner of that sale is the seller in CO,
It doesn't blow blue smoke is what I meant to say, corrected it.
As far as winner of the sale, sure, the seller may have got away with one, but I have seen many people listing theirs rigs non running for about or more than what I paid. The seller either did a good job of acting, or sincerely didn't know the extent of the problems. I prefer to give people the benefit of the doubt unless there is reason not to. We are still happy with our purchase. We assumed we would need to put money into it, we just hoped it wasn't so much right away, but it's probably better for piece of mind. If I felt it was a waste, I could try parting out and recoup some of the money, but I think I am better off continuing to learn what the problem is and solving it, even if it means an engine swap. If that is what happens, then I'm still less than 10k in, which is about what a similar rig can be had for with 200k miles. Of course there are deals out there and I could of should of waited. Hindsight is 20/20, live and learn. It is what it is, and I am where I am, and all the more pride of ownership once I get everything squared away, though it is a bit frustrating, I will admit.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2024 | 09:55 AM
  #26  
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I got my dually cheap enough to include a full engine swap.

I completed a few upgrades while I was at it. PI swap, LT headers, 4" MBRP exhaust, cooling mod, etc.

Start off new and don't look back

Restoring A 1999 F350 Dually - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com)
 
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Old Apr 4, 2024 | 12:37 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by musclemerc
I got my dually cheap enough to include a full engine swap.

I completed a few upgrades while I was at it. PI swap, LT headers, 4" MBRP exhaust, cooling mod, etc.

Start off new and don't look back

Restoring A 1999 F350 Dually - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com)
Thank you for sharing. How have you liked the engine? Did you just get a short block and then put the heads you wanted on it then? I am still hoping to dig into what I currently have before making decisions, but trying to consider my options. I don't have a shop or garage to really work out of, so that is a bit of a limiting factor. Not even a cement driveway, so pulling the floor jack around is even a project lol. But I saw a video series of a guy on YouTube who showed all the work to getting the heads of an F-250 and while it looked overwhelming, it also looked doable with the right mindset and patience. I assume removing the engine from that point would not be impossible for me either, other than needing the equipment for it, if it comes to it. I started another thread asking about resources for replacement engines, then got comments suggesting me to slow down and dig into what I have first before spending thousands, which makes a lot of sense, especially given the season of life I am in. If I can get a repair done for now that will give us some time, that would be better financially, but we will see how it plays out.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2024 | 02:19 PM
  #28  
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Here are a couple photos, only showing one section of the cylinder wall, couldn't twist the camera around to get others, will have to try to manipulate it later if needed.


 
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Old Apr 4, 2024 | 04:19 PM
  #29  
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Well, the pool of oil is weird. The vertical lines on the bore look like they could be gouges, but hard to tell without running a fingernail across them.

That's a lot of oil for a valve seal to be leaking by, but I'm not sure what else it could be coming from. It's possible that the oil hdyrolocked the cylinder and took out the rings, resulting in your 0 compression.

 
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Old Apr 4, 2024 | 04:56 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by '89F2urd
Well, the pool of oil is weird. The vertical lines on the bore look like they could be gouges, but hard to tell without running a fingernail across them.

That's a lot of oil for a valve seal to be leaking by, but I'm not sure what else it could be coming from. It's possible that the oil hdyrolocked the cylinder and took out the rings, resulting in your 0 compression.
I thought the oil was interesting too. I thought maybe because I cranked it over to get the piston down the cylinder, but that doesn't make sense. I didn't notice it in there though before when sticking the scope in, though maybe the cylinder was too high up and I wasn't getting a complete image.
 
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