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Floor pan help

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Old Feb 27, 2024 | 09:10 PM
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Floor pan help




Replacing floor pans on my '90 f250. Only major rust is on the floor pans due to previous owners neglect. Plan on using 3m panel bond and sheet metal screws to hold things together while it sets. Andybody here have experience with this method? Attached are photos of the current state of things before I get started cleaning up the loose stuff and grinding off paint on the floors. Buddy of mine suggests just leaving the rusted parts and laying the new pans over the top but I dont really agree with that. My plan was to cut out the rusty sections then lay the pans over and glue n screw. Any arguments for or against are welcome I wanna hear opinions. Por-15 will be applied under the cab after all is said and done
 
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Old Feb 27, 2024 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Jbart90



Replacing floor pans on my '90 f250. Only major rust is on the floor pans due to previous owners neglect. Plan on using 3m panel bond and sheet metal screws to hold things together while it sets. Andybody here have experience with this method? Attached are photos of the current state of things before I get started cleaning up the loose stuff and grinding off paint on the floors. Buddy of mine suggests just leaving the rusted parts and laying the new pans over the top but I dont really agree with that. My plan was to cut out the rusty sections then lay the pans over and glue n screw. Any arguments for or against are welcome I wanna hear opinions. Por-15 will be applied under the cab after all is said and done
youre gonna wanna weld..
Also I think there is a floor support somewhere by your feet under the cab, you may want to make sure its still in good shape. The rocker is in good shape for the most part, but your gonna want to weld where your fit at least meets the rocker, and youre gonna want to make sure it doesnt come back which means diligance. I suggest getting your seat out, pulling that weatherr stripping, and undo the wiring youre gonna need full access.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2024 | 09:28 PM
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I should note those pix are before I removed the seat and the rest of the mat. All that under there looks good. Those cab supports under there look good too just some light surface rust which I was shocked given the state of the floors. I was told by the same guy not to weld because the heat will cause the rockers to rust faster and damage them so I took his word for it... not opposed to welding, heard lots of good things about the panel bond which is why I was leaning towards that method
 
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Old Feb 27, 2024 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Jbart90
I should note those pix are before I removed the seat and the rest of the mat. All that under there looks good. Those cab supports under there look good too just some light surface rust which I was shocked given the state of the floors. I was told by the same guy not to weld because the heat will cause the rockers to rust faster and damage them so I took his word for it... not opposed to welding, heard lots of good things about the panel bond which is why I was leaning towards that method
That guy is a *******, and he also let the floor get to this condition, so i would consider anything he says to be noise.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2024 | 09:42 PM
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your right seems like i should use my better judgment on this one. I want to do this right so I dont have to do it again
 
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Old Feb 27, 2024 | 10:58 PM
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I used Panelbond and POR15. I used 3/16" bolts and Panelbond where the driver's side cab mount met my new floor pan. I used #10 screws and Panelbond to hold the rest.
I removed the loose rusted metal, then cleaned and applied POR15 to what was left, then Panebonded the new floor boards over the old.
I didn't POR15 the seams where the Panebond was going to be applied, because the Panelbond needs to be applied to bare metal.
I followed the Panelbond and POR15 directions to the letter.

Driver's side before.


Driver's side before


Passenger's side before


POR15 on the passenger's side


Floor pan layout


Not a great picture, but it's the only "after" picture I have.

I can see the old floor pan from underneath. The POR15 is holding up.
If I use POR15 again, I plan to drill a hole in the paint can lid and pour it in a different container. The lids are next to impossible to remove from the paint cans.

 
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Old Feb 28, 2024 | 04:09 AM
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I second the cut out as much as you need to get to clean sheet metal then weld in the new pieces. Laying the new parts on top of the old rusty metal is asking for the rust to return faster. Moisture will be held between the parts. The front cab mount bolt is directly under the access cover. Welding causes rust and will damage them? They were welded in from the factory so I don’t understand. I guess if you get it too hot and/or don’t paint it? I think you are going to find it needs more as you start cutting away the rot.

The driver’s side on mine needed the outer floor section rocker, front mount, cab corner, front and rear posts and since the rear part of the floor isn’t available - a patch made by the cab corner.

 
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Old Feb 28, 2024 | 05:09 AM
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Lapping sheet metal anywhere on a car or truck is reserved only for the unskilled or uneducated metal worker.
You need a better buddy. He's clueless. Probably fixes floor holes with old license plates and bathtub caulk.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2024 | 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by yeet
Lapping sheet metal anywhere on a car or truck is reserved only for the unskilled or uneducated metal worker.
You need a better buddy. He's clueless. Probably fixes floor holes with old license plates and bathtub caulk.
youre telling me rope caulk isnt the same as seam sealer?

I gotta go check a few things. Jk lol.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2024 | 08:51 AM
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Hes good with mechanical type knowledge but as far as bodywork goes I'm not listening to a word he says. Doesnt need to be perfect but has to be safe and would like to prevent it from coming back and thats what I was worried about if I left any of that rot on there. I'll post updates as things progress, thanks for the help
 
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Old Feb 28, 2024 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by yeet
Lapping sheet metal anywhere on a car or truck is reserved only for the unskilled or uneducated metal worker.
You need a better buddy. He's clueless. Probably fixes floor holes with old license plates and bathtub caulk.
The factory did plenty of overlapping too. Just need to make sure that the joint is sealed up one way or another.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2024 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by McLeod
The factory did plenty of overlapping too. Just need to make sure that the joint is sealed up one way or another.
This is what I like about Panelbond. It completely seals the joints.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2024 | 11:15 AM
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That drew me to it as well. From what I read properly used panel bond is actually stronger than welds plus has the added benefit of completely sealing the joint from water and corrosion
 
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Old Feb 28, 2024 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Jbart90
That drew me to it as well. From what I read properly used panel bond is actually stronger than welds plus has the added benefit of completely sealing the joint from water and corrosion
I've done both on my truck. If you use weld through primer and gas, when required, welds are a great method.
I'm not a skilled welder. I found it easier to use Panelbond on my floors and lower rear quarter but I welded my wheel arch patch panels.




My lower quarter Panelbond patch







 
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Old Feb 28, 2024 | 12:07 PM
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What it looks like now ... Because I never miss a chance to post a picture of my truck

 
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