Bad fuel sending unit? Help please
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 56
Likes: 2
Not sure if it’s been mentioned, but based off the looks I believe that’s a driven diesel Hutch kit. This is based off of the BF1212 filter and the yellow push lock. If there’s a similar bracket to what’s in their kit, I’d say it is theirs. I’ve been running their V1 setup since 2019 with no issues and it looks very similar to your setup. I’d be surprised if there’s mixing chambers still in the tank.
https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/driven-diesel-fuel-tank-mod-73l-ford.aspx
I’d personally be dropping the tank and seeing what you have before ordering anything. If you want to post a picture of the bracket that the filter head is mounted to it’ll help too just to possibly confirm the kit.
https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/driven-diesel-fuel-tank-mod-73l-ford.aspx
I’d personally be dropping the tank and seeing what you have before ordering anything. If you want to post a picture of the bracket that the filter head is mounted to it’ll help too just to possibly confirm the kit.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 209
Likes: 87
That looks like the Driven Diesel one that I have on my truck. If the weather dies down tomorrow I’ll snap a photo of it. I’d look at their instructions once you have it all taken apart and make sure it was assembled correctly.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
If you do the mods that RJWV linked above, you never have to go back in the tank again.
It is my humble opinion that the BF1212 is too fine of a filter pre-pump. The only thing this filter does is protect the pump. This style of pump pushes much better than it pulls. Too much restriction pre-pump can cause low fuel pressure at full tilt and/or premature pump failure. Ideally, you don’t want less than 50mic filter here. Or a fuel pressure gauge to verify you’re not starving the injectors.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 56
Likes: 2
Some people put the stupid umbrella ‘screen’ thing back in the tank. It WILL fail. Again.
If you do the mods that RJWV linked above, you never have to go back in the tank again.
It is my humble opinion that the BF1212 is too fine of a filter pre-pump. The only thing this filter does is protect the pump. This style of pump pushes much better than it pulls. Too much restriction pre-pump can cause low fuel pressure at full tilt and/or premature pump failure. Ideally, you don’t want less than 50mic filter here. Or a fuel pressure gauge to verify you’re not starving the injectors.
If you do the mods that RJWV linked above, you never have to go back in the tank again.
It is my humble opinion that the BF1212 is too fine of a filter pre-pump. The only thing this filter does is protect the pump. This style of pump pushes much better than it pulls. Too much restriction pre-pump can cause low fuel pressure at full tilt and/or premature pump failure. Ideally, you don’t want less than 50mic filter here. Or a fuel pressure gauge to verify you’re not starving the injectors.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 3,196
Likes: 1,698
There is absolutely nothing wrong with that setup on it. I've had exact setup on mine for 10+ years. Never had to replace the pump. Fuel pressure holds steady. I change the filter every year or 2. I even have bigger the factory injectors and stock fuel pump works a ok. No reason to change it unless you want to waste money. Just my experiences.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 56
Likes: 2
There is absolutely nothing wrong with that setup on it. I've had exact setup on mine for 10+ years. Never had to replace the pump. Fuel pressure holds steady. I change the filter every year or 2. I even have bigger the factory injectors and stock fuel pump works a ok. No reason to change it unless you want to waste money. Just my experiences.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 5,065
Likes: 1,415
From: Oologah, OK
I left the OEM Return Line as is, no need to mess with that.
The Sump does away with the Plastic Draw Straw in the tank, which always crumbles and leaves you "out of fuel" at 1/4 tank.
this is a 10 Micron filter, installed Prior to the fuel pump, it is huge in size, and does NOT restrict the flow of fuel.
This Wix 24006 PreFilter has been on my truck for 20 plus years, the Fire Department installed it. the "top hose" is the new fuel line from the Sump. the "bottom" hose is the existing fuel line from the filter base, to the fuel pump, we just left it AS IS.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 324
From: Arizona
When I did the Hutch mod in 2009 I put the same pickup foot back. Fast forward to a couple years ago I dropped the tank and it was disintegrated. I bought a new one and installed it, but in retrospect I wish I had just left it off and extended the tube. I wonder how long the replacement one will last?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,855
Likes: 2,332
From: WV
Retaining or deleting the foot is user choice. I know it will likely fail, but I liked the thought of the large mouth screen to protect the inlet in case of stickers etc floating in the tank.
What I did was a hybrid version where I retained the foot but put the end of the inlet pipe low within the tank. That way if the foot fails I still won’t run out of fuel at 1/4 tank. My theory anyhow.
Picture mine as looking something like this but without the mixing chamber.
My truck was done before SSJ made the thread about his method. So mine has the quick connects removed and the long extension for the fuel return. I don’t recommend these.
When we did my dad’s truck I followed SSJ’s instructions except for retaining the foot instead of the 90° open ended inlet.
Pick your pleasure.
When I did the Hutch mod in 2009 I put the same pickup foot back. Fast forward to a couple years ago I dropped the tank and it was disintegrated. I bought a new one and installed it, but in retrospect I wish I had just left it off and extended the tube. I wonder how long the replacement one will last?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
You guys with ‘no problems’ running a fine filter pre-pump have had the luxury of clean fuel that likely did not need a filter at all.
The first tank of crappy fuel and you’ll change that 10mic filter 25x, but not before taking out your fuel pump.
Luckily, we usually get good fuel in this country. I made B100 for awhile and the visible/cleanable RACOR PS120 kept me on the road. I also had coating delamination of my cab chassis steel tank that compromised my pre-pump filter on the regular until I replaced the tank.
The WIX 33972 I recommend in the write-up almost never needs changed. They go the same 100, 200, 300k the factory junk will. I’ve installed dozens of dozens of these.
Meanwhile, I don’t necessarily recommend changing it - but a fuel pressure gauge post filters is always a good idea on these trucks.
The first tank of crappy fuel and you’ll change that 10mic filter 25x, but not before taking out your fuel pump.
Luckily, we usually get good fuel in this country. I made B100 for awhile and the visible/cleanable RACOR PS120 kept me on the road. I also had coating delamination of my cab chassis steel tank that compromised my pre-pump filter on the regular until I replaced the tank.
The WIX 33972 I recommend in the write-up almost never needs changed. They go the same 100, 200, 300k the factory junk will. I’ve installed dozens of dozens of these.
Meanwhile, I don’t necessarily recommend changing it - but a fuel pressure gauge post filters is always a good idea on these trucks.
Banned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 3,541
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Got around to fixing this today. I reached in and pulled the broken shower head out. Interestingly, when I slipped the new one on and dropped the sending unit back in, I found the new shower head was actually bottoming out a just tiny bit on the bottom of the tank, which made me cringe a little knowing these are delicate, but you can see by the picture where the old one wore the round mark in the bottom of the tank where it made contact, so apparently it's supposed to be that way. I don't remember that from when I took the sending unit out way back when I first bought the truck, but the old foot must have already been "squished" down into position unlike the new one. Because the back of my truck looks like this with the tank easily accessible, the easiest thing to do was just put another foot on. Hey, the old one lasted 25 years was my thought.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 56
Likes: 2
Got around to fixing this today. I reached in and pulled the broken shower head out. Interestingly, when I slipped the new one on and dropped the sending unit back in, I found the new shower head was actually bottoming out just tiny bit on the bottom of the tank, which made me cringe a little knowing these are delicate, but you can see by the picture where the old one wore the round mark in the bottom of the tank where it made contact, so apparently it's supposed to be that way. I don't remember that from when I took the sending unit out way back when I first bought the truck, but the old foot must have already been "squished" down into position unlike the new one. Because the back of my truck looks like this with the tank easily accessible, the easiest thing to do was just put another foot on. Hey, the old one lasted 25 years was my thought.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 3,196
Likes: 1,698
That's how it's designed to work. Sits on the bottom of the tank slightly. Fuel comes in between all the little nipples. Keeps it from sucking up any debris and blocking flow. Which if it does the little thing on the side is a bypass if the bottom gets stopped up somehow.