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I am rebuilding a turbo out of an ‘06 truck with a balanced wheel and kit from KC Turbos. While tearing it down I found the unison ring to be worn. No big deal, I’m sure they all are and easy to replace. What I’m having trouble with is the VGT plunger. You know, the rod that moves the unison ring and ultimately the vanes. It should be a given that if the unison ring is worn, I should also replace the plunger if it’s worn.
I cannot find this plunger anywhere. I contacted KC and they said they don’t think it’s a separately sold part. They said it’s part of the bearing housing assembly which they’ll happily sell me for $275.00 minus the unison ring.
Well someone assembled those housings with individual parts to make an assembly. They weren’t just cast this way at the factory. Has anyone come across this before or have any leads?
I am rebuilding a turbo out of an ‘06 truck with a balanced wheel and kit from KC Turbos. While tearing it down I found the unison ring to be worn. No big deal, I’m sure they all are and easy to replace. What I’m having trouble with is the VGT plunger. You know, the rod that moves the unison ring and ultimately the vanes. It should be a given that if the unison ring is worn, I should also replace the plunger if it’s worn.
I cannot find this plunger anywhere. I contacted KC and they said they don’t think it’s a separately sold part. They said it’s part of the bearing housing assembly which they’ll happily sell me for $275.00 minus the unison ring.
Well someone assembled those housings with individual parts to make an assembly. They weren’t just cast this way at the factory. Has anyone come across this before or have any leads?
How much slop between the new unison ring and the plunger? If the metal on the plunger is harder it would wear the unison ring first, but I'm not sure. Need to replace mine soon too so I'm curious what you find out.
Also one would want to question the vanes as well, as they could be worn? How far to go before just getting a whole new turbo?
How much slop between the new unison ring and the plunger? If the metal on the plunger is harder it would wear the unison ring first, but I'm not sure. Need to replace mine soon too so I'm curious what you find out.
Also one would want to question the vanes as well, as they could be worn? How far to go before just getting a whole new turbo?
I’ll follow up on the slop when I get the new unison ring. The billet stainless steel rings seem to pretty prevalent now a days. My vanes look like new, so I’m getting the ring only.
My unison ring looked like that and I had a machine shop cut a new slot in the opposing side. Never worried about the nub on the cam. Worked well.
If the nub is round I wouldn't worry about it.
A new stainless steel billet unison ring was about $60.
The nub on that rod is more the shape of a football, but still round-ish. I’m more concerned with the slop. My plan is to build it back up with weld, and grind then polish smooth. We’ll see how that goes.
@Fuzzpuss here is a better picture of the wear in this plunger/ rod. I guess as far as Garrett or whoever makes these for Garrett is concerned, why sell a $20 part when you can sell the whole assembly for more…..or ultimately a new turbo! 🤨
Yeah that looks pretty bad. And it ain't just Garrett pulling that b.s.
You should reach out to IHATECOMMIECARS. He's always buying these trucks from auction houses. He might have a turbo laying around that he'd be willing to ****** that part from.
Try this https://www.theboostlab.com/
They mantain parts catalogs for turbos and once you get the correct 10-digit Garrett number, you should be able to source the "lower tier" part separately (as many rebuilders do)
Try this https://www.theboostlab.com/
They mantain parts catalogs for turbos and once you get the correct 10-digit Garrett number, you should be able to source the "lower tier" part separately (as many rebuilders do)
Thanks. I may have to give them a call. Doesn’t look like they have parts listed in their website. Thanks for the lead!
School me on this one, as i've never pulled that actuator arm out. I've got the VGT solenoid, the VGT plunger, and the view port plug on the top of the CHRA out. It looks like there's a roll pin in there that's holding the rod onto the spoked wheel that indexes the plunger, correct? If I knock that roll pin out that actuator arm should slide right off the front, right?
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