Help! Cant find the gremlin
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 49
Likes: 3
I didn't see anything like what you posted but when I looked the part up in the Google machine this little jewel showed up. Could this be what they are using for the OBD II vehicles? There is a bulb looking piece of plastic in the line from the air pump to the back of the engine but there's no vacuum lines hooked to it.
Edit: After seeing a post about removing the evap system I saw the location. On the 96's they're tucked behind the upper intake so I'll have to remove it to get to them. Lovely.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 49
Likes: 3
I had the alternator tested and it was bad so I replaced it. No change in how it runs.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 49
Likes: 3
1351 is the only one I get, which makes sense. Since the engine is running like crap the computer thinks there is a problem with the ICM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
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From: Kentucky
The TAB and TAD solenoids are behind the EVR.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 5,086
Likes: 869
From: N.W. Alabama
keep this in the back of your mind, could be plug wire again(mine had 3 go bad in 4 months) miss under load, your miss is when belt on(load) belt off(no load)
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 49
Likes: 3
Update.
After going through everything twice and even three times I was to the point of sending it to the shop so we could inspect the thrust bearing. That was the only thing left that I hadn't checked, or so I thought. My brother came over one day to pick up some equipment and I told him what I had been going through with it. He asked if I'd checked the alternator and I replied that I had replaced it recently because it tested bad but that didn't solve the problem. He suggested unplugging it just to see what happened. Well, I did and the miss was gone. I plugged it back in and the miss came back.
Now, where do I go from here? There's no obvious bad spots or kinks in the harness that I can see so I don't think it's a short. Could it be the PCM? I had crossed that off the list because it ran correctly with the belt off. I figured if it was the PCM it would miss whether the belt was on or off. Is there anywhere else any of you can think to check?
I'm relieved it's not the engine but now I have a whole new area to go through and I'm not the best with automotive electrical.
After going through everything twice and even three times I was to the point of sending it to the shop so we could inspect the thrust bearing. That was the only thing left that I hadn't checked, or so I thought. My brother came over one day to pick up some equipment and I told him what I had been going through with it. He asked if I'd checked the alternator and I replied that I had replaced it recently because it tested bad but that didn't solve the problem. He suggested unplugging it just to see what happened. Well, I did and the miss was gone. I plugged it back in and the miss came back.
Now, where do I go from here? There's no obvious bad spots or kinks in the harness that I can see so I don't think it's a short. Could it be the PCM? I had crossed that off the list because it ran correctly with the belt off. I figured if it was the PCM it would miss whether the belt was on or off. Is there anywhere else any of you can think to check?
I'm relieved it's not the engine but now I have a whole new area to go through and I'm not the best with automotive electrical.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 5,086
Likes: 869
From: N.W. Alabama
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 49
Likes: 3
Ok, I checked all the grounds I could find and all were good and clean. On the outside chance there was some corrosion I didn’t find I ran an extra ground from the neg terminal to the alternator bracket. No change.
I talked to a mechanic and picked his brain about it. Since I had just unhooked the voltage regulator he said to unhook the line from the battery to the alternator instead. I did and the problem went away. This lead to an inspection of the alternator harness. It all checked out and all the lines had continuity. However during the removal of the harness I found the green wire from the voltage regulator going to a plug that goes into the main harness. I left this plug disconnected and the truck ran fine. I plugged it in and the stumble came back. Where does this wire go? I’m guessing that’s where my problem is.
I talked to a mechanic and picked his brain about it. Since I had just unhooked the voltage regulator he said to unhook the line from the battery to the alternator instead. I did and the problem went away. This lead to an inspection of the alternator harness. It all checked out and all the lines had continuity. However during the removal of the harness I found the green wire from the voltage regulator going to a plug that goes into the main harness. I left this plug disconnected and the truck ran fine. I plugged it in and the stumble came back. Where does this wire go? I’m guessing that’s where my problem is.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 49
Likes: 3
That would make sense. Judging by the schematic the wire goes to the cluster. I took the cluster out and unplugged it. The truck ran fine but the alternator was not charging. I’m guessing the power from the ignition flows through the volt gauge to ignite the alternator?
I couldn’t find any method of testing the volt gauge so I just ordered a new one as that seems to be the weak link. I don’t know how in the world a bad gauge could cause the engine to cut out like it is but with everything else I have tried I figured it wouldn’t hurt to replace it.
I couldn’t find any method of testing the volt gauge so I just ordered a new one as that seems to be the weak link. I don’t know how in the world a bad gauge could cause the engine to cut out like it is but with everything else I have tried I figured it wouldn’t hurt to replace it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 5,221
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That would make sense. Judging by the schematic the wire goes to the cluster. I took the cluster out and unplugged it. The truck ran fine but the alternator was not charging. I’m guessing the power from the ignition flows through the volt gauge to ignite the alternator?
I couldn’t find any method of testing the volt gauge so I just ordered a new one as that seems to be the weak link. I don’t know how in the world a bad gauge could cause the engine to cut out like it is but with everything else I have tried I figured it wouldn’t hurt to replace it.
I couldn’t find any method of testing the volt gauge so I just ordered a new one as that seems to be the weak link. I don’t know how in the world a bad gauge could cause the engine to cut out like it is but with everything else I have tried I figured it wouldn’t hurt to replace it.