Hello,
For a while now my 88 has been having issues with the ignition switch. When my lock cylinder broke I tried getting a new one and putting that on but it would never fit. I kept coming back to it and trying it but ultimately I resorted to using a pair of pliers on the pushrod going over the top of the steering column to start the truck. Yesterday I tried once more to get the lock cylinder in and now the pushrod won’t work. Dove into the column and removed the unit that the pushrod goes into. Swapped it out with a known good one, and had a successful start using that unit before reinstalling everything. Once I got everything reinstalled I tried the pushrod and it won’t work. All the lights and everything come on as usual, but when I push it all the way to crank the motor nothing happens. Removed the unit again and doing it right off the unit now nothing happens. Thought it may be a grounding issue so I ran a ground wire and that didn’t work. Not too sure where to go from this, halfway tempted to wire up some custom ignition and bypass the whole stock system.

 

It may not be adjusted correctly when installed.

 

Please, for the sake of all of us OBS lovers, don't modify your wiring.....
Switch doesnt require a ground.
Switch should be in OFF position, new ones come with locking tab to hold them in that position.
Key Switch must also be exactly in OFF position when installing pushrod in switch and switch should be set in slots on it so as to have pushrod "centered" in switch, ie: pushrod shouldn't be tight in either direction when you tighten mounting bolts.
Pushrod / ignition switch mechanism may have worn to the point that things are sloppy and not moving far enough to activate switch.
If you're having problems with electrical, such as you said when trying switch unmounted from column, then you've got a bad connection somewhere. Start with the plug on the switch. Make sure it looks perfect. Don't start pulling separate terminals out of any connectors until you visually followed all the wires and visually inspected all the connectors. If you're getting dash lights, then I'd suspect current from the "start" position of the switch isn't reaching the solenoid on the fender. Is the solenoid clicking? Of you apply 12v to the small solenoid terminal does it crank? You can disconnect the small terminal, apply 12v to the terminal at that end and see if there's 12v at the "start" terminal in the ignition switch connector.
You need 2 things to do thus stuff
1 a decent quality 12v automotive test light. Light should have sharp enough end to pierce wiring insulation so you can actually see if wires are live
this will help you suss out terminals that are bad or not crimped onto wire anymore.
2 a jumper you make with an inline fuse holder with about a 10amp fuse in it. Fused jumper is mandatory so if you or the wiring are mistaken, you won't burn stuff up jumpering stuff.
Ive found that patiently following every darn wire / circuit related to a particular problem will always reveal the fault. A lot of times, on these 35 year old trucks, someone has messes with the wiring and simply eliminating all the misswires and modifications, bringing it back to factory stock, fixes things.
​​​​​​Now if you suspect a particular terminal, use a very small screwdriver to carefully push down on the terminal's barb so you can extract the terminal from the connector header. Only do one at a time so there is no way things can get crossed.
Factory manuals are sold on Ebay by guys that have scanned them and pit them in USB flash drives and one guy offered an online download instead.
The manuals are imperative so you can follow wire colors and see full diagram of what connects to what.
BTW it's sometimes challenging to get a good ground for the test light and be sure it'd well grounded or you'll be just pissed when things look weird, then you go all the way back and discover the light wasn't grounded properly.
Good luck

 

I know it's been a while but I ended up getting the new ignition in and sometimes it works properly and sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't work all I have to do is use a pair of pliers on the pushrod while turning the key. When it doesn't work right the key will turn it almost all the way and just needs a little push. The module on the column is as close to me as it can get and I already replaced that module so this setup is fine by me. I did not change any wiring or cut any connectors.

 

Sounds to me like the key mechanism / pushrod are worn. Probably wallowed out so you're not achieving enough travel to activate switch. Pull the wheel and have a look at it.