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need help with my 04 F250 6.0 diesel from I think late 04, so I bought the truck a couple months ago and it has had a lot of issues however I thought I got everything fixed except for a dying issue when I pulled a heavy load till this weekend, my fuel pump and starter went bad so I replaced both however now it only runs till it gets hot and won’t start up again until it cooled down for a minute or two. The longer you let it cool down the longer it’ll run afterwards. I’m at my wits end I need help. I have checked the radio wires for a short and the radio turned on with the key off as I was messing with it and after I had the truck running it shut off without me touching any buttons but I could not find any issues. Should I redo the connector wires and could any of them cause the issue? Any advice is appreciated guys.
Have you changed the oil in the truck since you’ve owned it? And if so what weight oil did you use?
Leaks in the high pressure oil system ( typically at the slip fit connector or oil rail cups) can cause the injectors to not fire correctly and as the oil gets thinner with heat the leaks can increase. Using to thin an oil can make the issue a little worse too.
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>>>>> now it only runs till it gets hot and won’t start up again until it cooled down for a minute or two. The longer you let it cool down the longer it’ll run afterwards.
More than one thing going on because a high pressure oil issue doesn't cause a low battery voltage code >>>>>B1318. I hate troubleshooting when there are easily fixable "base issues". Fix electrical issues first as a rule of thumb. I also hate leaving GPCM codes unaddressed!
I guess he could have just cranked too much, but still, the batteries at least need checking IMO.
As far as dying when hot and restarting when it cools off, I agree that is most common for it to be a high pressure oil leak issue, but sometimes it is from an electronics issue (failing electronics can result in a quicker heat buildup inside the component - FICMs, IPRs, EBPs, etc), or even fuel dilution of the oil which would be indicated by a high oil level (and diesel smell to the oil). The easiest thing to do is confirm a high pressure oil issue - just need to watch the ICP and IPR PIDs.
That said, NOTICEABLY absent are ANY high pressure oil codes P2290 or P2291 (also P2284 and P2285 codes are not there either) ......unless the scan tool is less than capable.
An '04 will NOT have the troublesome STC ftting (ie "slip fit connector") on the HPOP discharge. That is ONLY '05 and up.
Yes I did change the oil and I don’t remember the brand but it was what oriellys said ford advises to use.
Originally Posted by Antonm23
Have you changed the oil in the truck since you’ve owned it? And if so what weight oil did you use?
Leaks in the high pressure oil system ( typically at the slip fit connector or oil rail cups) can cause the injectors to not fire correctly and as the oil gets thinner with heat the leaks can increase. Using to thin an oil can make the issue a little worse too.
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More than one thing going on because a high pressure oil issue doesn't cause a low battery voltage code.
I guess he could have just cranked too much, but still, the batteries need checking IMO.
the batteries are good, I had them tested and I’m at a mechanic right now and he said that I probably cranked it too much and didn’t actually leave it running long enough for it to charge because of the motor dying issue. I did find an oil leak on the oil pressure sensor/switch, could that cause a short? The oil is inside the connector
Keep an eye on that system voltage, keep batteries charged ...... because you can cause the FICM to fail with low battery voltage!
An oil leak or an electrical issue at the oil pressure switch is not going to cause the engine to die or to not start. That switch is wired directly to the instrument cluster.
Now, if you are talking the ICP sensor connector, then yes, it can possibly be an issue, but when you say oil switch, that points to the low pressure oil switch.
Keep an eye on that system voltage, because you can cause the FICM to fail with low battery voltage!
An oil leak or an electrical issue at the oil pressure switch is not going to cause the engine to die or to not start. That switch is wired directly to the instrument cluster.
Ok, I just found another corroded connector but it’s attached the the main harness so I don’t know if it can be replaced
Ok, I just found another corroded connector but it’s attached the the main harness so I don’t know if it can be replaced
Good find, a good reward for keeping your mind open to possible issues! That is the EGR valve connector. I have not seen that connector sold individually, but it probably is. You can just leave that disconnected, and hopefully that green corrosion is NOT up into the wires. EDIT - see post below for the connector.
The corroded pins are for the PCM supplied switched power (Red wire) and the PCM control wire (White wire with Red stripe). A short in that switched power (in the wiring or on the valve itself) CAN cause the engine to shut off or not to start, Still (in addition), you (or the mechanic) need to watch the high pressure oil system numbers as the folks above have suggested.
Yes I did change the oil and I don’t remember the brand but it was what oriellys said ford advises to use.
Ford is most likely going to recommend a 15W40 oil. A 5W40 will work just fine though! Don't listen to folks that may try to tell you that a 5W40 is too thin, lol. It is a 40 weight oil just like 15W40. When they are both at engine operating temperatures the oil viscosity reflects that. The only oils that are Ford approved that are going to be thinner (but only slightly)at the operating temps are 10W30 and 5W30 oils ................. but I doubt that many Ford dealerships are going to recommend that for a 6.0L (unless in a cold climate) even though many people have used it with good UOA results. Note that there is a lower limit (Ford recommendation) on temperature for 15W40 oil (due to the HEUI injectors). Ford has stated that it is "acceptable" below 30*F but only down to 10 degrees, and it isn't until 30 degrees that it moves into the "preferred" category. If you want to see engine oil "thin out", watch what happens to viscosity with a plugged oil cooler ..... as engine oil goes from 210*F to 230*F (and in fact the oil inside the engine is significantly hotter than the EOT PID value). Then add diesel to it, lol!
Regarding 5W40 oils, they work well in winter and summer conditions, in all parts of the country except perhaps the winters in the far North where 0W40 might be needed. Although the 5W40 oils will shear more over time than the 15W40 oils (due to the increased VII additives), BUT they will not shear down to a 30 weight in anywhere near as short of a time frame as some would have you believe. They will hold up well in the typical 5000 mile OCI.
