Good morning,

As some of you know, I decided to go look at an Excursion in Colorado and drove it back to Montana. I got to hangout with my cousin, who I have not spent much time with, in Colorado as he lives in the area of where the Excursion was and was able to pick me up from the airport and let me crash at his place. That was great. As for the Excursion, it is a 2000 with the V-10 and 4X4. It needs love, and I will need help learning how to love it properly. I will list things I know of on this post, but then will start new posts as appropriate.

From the ad, I knew it had a check engine light on, but did not know why as they sellers were not very communicative. I took an OBDII reader with me, and when I showed up, scanned for codes first. Only one was showing, and it was P0171. After a visual inspection, did a test drive, and then re-read the codes. After the test drive, codes for misfires to cylinders 5 and 10 were added (P1305, P1310). And I read the codes once I got home and cylinder 6 also showed up on the misfire list. I cleared the codes when I got home, and will check again after a little drive as we are going to take it to a friends place for one of their children to attempt to clean the inside up some.

Did a visual inspection and noticed the blow by hose on the driver valve cover was rotted where it meets the cover, causing oil to lightly mist the hose (see photo) and I also noticed the passenger one (which has a 3 smaller hoses connected to it) was not plugged in, but off to the side, so I put that one back in. I checked the oil and it looked okay, just a tad above half way between full and add.

Transmission fluid color looked good (light red/pink).

There is a little rattle in the front of the engine, consistent rhythm that sounds like it is coming from the alternator or fan area (it seems to be outside the engine internals) that the seller said he just first noticed recently. The alternator is new, as is the starter.

I noticed that the coolant reservoir is allowing air to escape from the top as it is old and cracked a bit (see photo), and I assume this needs to be addressed since it is suppose to be a pressurized system, correct?

I also noticed what sounded like an exhaust leak, but not from the front. Looked underneath the middle of the vehicle and saw the weld of the pipe connecting to the muffler is rusting/worn out and that will need addressed. Is there anything worth considering when addressing that? Anything to consider that would cause improvement performance, or is that only if you start from the exhaust manifolds? I know nothing in that realm and am happy to keep it stock, but know opening up exhaust can have benefits and if I will have to do anything more than just have that rewelded, then if it is worth doing some homework on it seems worth considering, I just don't know what it takes.

It has manual Warn hubs and they work. When I tested the system in the parking lot, 4x4 engaged when I turned the switch (with hubs locked), but did not seem to disengage when I turned off (the 4x4 light did go off on the dash when the switch was turned off), so freed the hubs. I tested again when on the road going through a pass, this time running it in 4x4 for enough time to get everything moving and warmed up, and it seemed to turn off when I turned the switch, though whether it was immediate or not, I don't know, I just know it didn't bind when I finally made my next right turn.

I called my wife's cousin who is mechanically very knowledgeable to get his take based on what I was able to describe. He was honest and shared he tells people if the check engine light is on, walk away. Usually 2 reasons for the light to remain on, it's too expensive a repair for the seller to want to deal with, or the seller doesn't care to maintain the vehicle as it should be. Of course there are other reasons, but that's what he tells people to consider. Then we discussed price and if I were to go for it, to get it as cheaply as I could, which I appreciated as I may not have attempted to start as low without his advice. I obviously chose to take the chance and make the purchase. The seller was asking $3,400 (though originally they had a note in their ad if purchased by Jan. 10th $3,000 so that was going to be my offer) and I offered $2,500 and they countered $2,800 and I was happy with that, so that is what we agreed to.

During the drive home, I noticed that it does not like to casually accelerate from 35mph (ish) to 50 as it hesitates, shakes, whatever the feeling is. I was thinking transmission, but someone in my other thread shared it very well could be related to the misfires. Since I was mostly highway speeds or small towns at 25mph, it wasn't too much of a concern. Only got me in trouble once as I was going through a pass that was slick with snow/ice and I stepped on it a bit to downshift and accelerate a little faster through that speed zone, I thought I was on solid straight road but was not and spun. Nobody or nothing around, so all good, just a friendly reminder to self that I know better and not do it again! The other fun thing was the loose front end/wandering issue that I was warned about by another member to expect. That made going through the icy sections a bit more nerve racking as I sometimes could not tell if I was slipping a bit, or just if it was just the keeping the steering corrected. With it being a new to me vehicle, I obviously don't have the best feel for it yet. But, given those things, it rode well all things considered, cruising 65-75 where appropriate, brakes feel solid (though the ABS light came on a couple miles from home when I stopped in some slush, then it did not come back on after I restarted the engine after refueling...), heater worked great (I only had it on the first blower setting with the temp **** generally at 80%, and it made the 900+ mile journey home without leaving me stranded! Another thing I noticed that I could use your expertise on is where the temp and oil pressure gauges should be reading. I attached a photo of where they were, and the temp seems lower than other vehicles I've driven, and the oil pressure seems a touch higher. But, I know this is a new to me vehicle and they could very well be in their normal ranges.
As mentioned, it needs love, both mechanical and cosmetic. It is missing lens covers, torn seats, broken antenna for the radio, etc., but my wife and I feel pretty good that we have a functioning Excursion that we can work on as time and finances allow.

Fuel Mileage: I started with a full tank somewhere north of Denver and drove 822 miles to get home and burned 66.561 gallons of 85 octane fuel for a whooping 12.35mpg! I am pretty happy with that mileage considering the unknown maintenance and misfires, given that seems to be pretty average for these rigs from what I can tell. I did put 3 cans of seafoam in it when I filled it up the first time too. I need to look at the door tag to confirm what axel/gear ratios it came with. Pretty sure the vin decoder shows it having 3.73 gears. The RPMs seems higher than I expected though, with 60mph being about 2100rpms, and 70 was around 2500rpms.

So for starters, let me know what I should consider addressing immediately and any resources to get me on my way.
I plan to start with plugs and boots (quick search gave me this Set of 10 Motorcraft Spark Plugs + 10 Coil Boots For Ford V10-6.8L Engines | eBay) Thoughts? I have read to stick with motorcraft or autolites are okay too) Anything else while I am in this area?
I need to look into replacing that blow by hose.
How urgent should the coolant reservoir be?
How urgent should the exhaust pipe/muffler be?
I'd like to flush the fluids systematically too at some point sooner than later.
The steering will need addressed too, and I know there are threads on that topic I need to review. That is a system I'm intimidated by, but I have a friend with an Excursion who is aware of their needs and he may be willing to assist too when that time comes.

I don't have a garage to work out of, it will be in our version of the driveway.

And for the photos. If there is a better way to add photos, please let me know and I can try to edit, or at least so I know for future postings.

Thank you!














What are these possibly too for? I assume some feature I don't have in use...

Where I could see small bubbles from air escaping



Blow by hose rotted

 

You have a good plan in place. Stick with Motorcraft plugs (SP-479). If you are replacing all of the plugs, I would recommend doing the passenger side rear-most coil pack at the same time, it is the hardest to get to and you may as well preventatively replace it. After doing plugs, check for misfires again using Forscan. If your truck rumbles under light load while cruising, which goes away when you downshift, you likely have a misfire from a bad coil. It doesn't always throw a permanent CEL since the truck "fixes" itself by downshifting and remedying the issue. Which is why I say to check them with Forscan. Use Denso 673-6000 for your coil packs.

The overflow tank isn't hard to replace, just do it now along with the hoses you plan to replace. May as well flush the system when replacing your tank. I would prioritize this over your exhaust, personally.

The wires you have pointed out are factory pass-through wires that end on the other side of your dash. They can be used as you see fit with aftermarket items.

Another item on the V-10 that commonly goes bad is the exhaust manifold studs rusting away. That is one of few jobs I hired out. Take a look and see if all of your studs and nuts are there. I had a high-pitched squeal under load, the loose manifold studs/gasket was the culprit.

Good luck!

 

If the coils are unknown in age and or mismatched I'd just go ahead and do all of them along with the plugs. I spent a lot of time chasing misfires in my F250 (also a V10) replacing 1 coil at a time. Ended up just doing all 10 with plugs and it's been running great now. It's worth the money IMO. I went with cheapo amazon coils for about $80 for all 10 and they've held up for a year so far.

Make sure to check the coil connectors first though. On my Excursion, it had a misfire when I purchased it and it ended up just being a coil that wasn't plugged in all the way. Pushed the connector in and it went away, you might just have a few loose connectors.

I think you got a great deal on it personally. Keep us posted on your progress.

 

Good point on the coil plugs.

To add- I also had a misfire from a dislodged/broken injector plug. Keep an eye on them, too.

 

Congrats on the new to you EX!

Be very careful with Amazon and eBay parts as there are tons of counterfeit Motorcraft stuff out there floating around. When replacing the spark plugs with new Motorcraft SP-479 plugs always also install new rubber boots and springs. Denso (OEM manufacturer for ) part number 671-0001 is a set of 10 boots and springs. Denso COPs are the OEM and there part number is 673-6000 (they include a new boot and spring with the COP).

The 4 blunt cut wires shown are the factory installed customer convenience pass through (the firewall) wires put there to make it easier for the owner to wire up accessories. The other end of those pass through wires can be found up under the interior dashboard, may have to look around a bit to find them.

The dash oil pressure, engine temp and trans temp aren’t real gauges, they are actually just 3 position idiot lights with a low/cold, “normal range” and high/hot positions. So if they are showing somewhere mid scale they are working as designed.

I agree that the coolant expansion tank and cooling system would be my first service job, replace that cracked tank and flush the system along with a new T-stat.

 

As Tom stated please try and stay away from counterfeit parts, some times you might get a good one but more often then not they won’t last and you will be doing the repair again. Rock Auto is a good source for quality parts at reasonable prices and they usually have what you need. For Parts like your coolant tank, aftermarket parts are usually fine but OEM when available is always the way to go. Good luck with your new project.

 

Thank you for the responses. Working on my list now. For coolant, seems to be a bit of a debate, but the original from 2000 appears to have been the green stuff. Since I am flushing, what are your thoughts? Looking at RockAuto, they default to the green stuff.

Also, looking for that hose coming off the driver side valve cover that I am referring to as a blow by hose, does that have a more accurate name? Is it part of the EGR system? I'm not finding it on my initial search through RockAuto.

So far I have in my list a new coolant reservoir, thermostat (Motorcraft RT1195), 10 COPs (Denso 6736000), 12 plugs (Motorcraft SP479), and currently the Prestone AF2100 coolant concentrate.

Thank you,

Grady

 

Congrats on the new Ex.
I’d first echo anything WE3ZS says. In my opinion his direction is the way to go, especially with the 6.8 4 x 4.
I have some experience with the steering and suspension. If anything in your Ex’s steering and suspension is rubber, replace it if it has not already been done.
Replace everything in the front steering except the Pitman arm. In your case with rust being a factor, you might want to replace that, as well. Ford Motorcraft should be used except the following:
Steering box: I have been through the original OEM - 100,000 miles, Red Head - 40,000, Ford Motorcraft rebuild - 50,000 and now a Blue Top - 10,000. All start out OK, then start their deteriorating to the point where the steering wheel feels like wheel of fortune. Next on my list is a PSC. It is expensive, but it is new and not a a rebuild.
Lower steering shaft: I purchased a Borgeson 000306 from Summit Racing. The “rag joint” again, starts to gradually fall apart over time. Borgeson has a metal u-joint. It is a must, in my opinion.
Steering dampener: Bilstein 5100. It does a little to slow down the light feeling of the steering wheel.
Suspension: first contact Junior at ATS Springs and tell him what your goals are. He helped me out immensely. Great guy, very patient. Springs wear out over time. I already had an RAS (Road Master Active Suspension) so he recommended their B codes for the rear. I’ve got a 2WD, so my fronts are Ford Motorcraft Z codes (stiffest front coils made). Bilstein 4600 is my choice. Hellwig rear swaybar. Don’t let anybody tell you different. This will help immensely with body roll as well as the whole vehicle. Another body roll limiter is replacing your body mounts. The first time I mounted my Ex in a lift,
It looked like a bowl of jello. I used polyurethane.
Forgot to mention: Try to adjust your caster as much as possible. Try for 5 degrees, if possible.
Bags: I used Airlift 7000. The Airlift gives me the ability to adjust my rear end when towing (do not buy the 7000 EZ) and the RAS allows me to adjust my adjust my height when running empty. The EZ is not easy. I had to buy some rubber spacers to allow enough space for the E-brake cable to run its coarse.
Cooling: 6.0 radiator is an easy swap and the size is comparable to the radiator in my VW Jetta.
Good luck with your project.

 

Thank you for the information. I will keep this in mind, though I will probably also start a thread when I get around to front end stuff as I know nothing about it. How doable are many of these things to do myself off of jack stands? Any special tools once I get to this. The suspension stuff will probably be several months out, depending on finances and such, but prefer to be prepared and have an idea of what I'm getting myself into before I start, because even then it's always more than I expected.

 

How doable are many of these things to do myself off of jack stands? Any special tools once I get to this.

If you have not already bought jack stands, purchase some reputable ones that are as big/high and stout as possible.
Most projects are with standard tools, but couple/two/three are not and one I made to swap out the body mount bushings.
The jack stands should be high enough so if you have to drop the gas tank, you can.

 

Good to know, thank you.

 

IDK if it's been mentioned but I know what these wires are for. they are customer access passthrough wires for accessories or what not. the other side should be under the dash between the PCM and fuse box. Getting ready for bed so I just skimmed through everything

 

First comment concerns the 4x4. The lights on dash just tell you that the shift motor engaged the front drive. You have manual hubs, so I'd find an easy place to test and make sure the hubs are actually locking the wheels. ( Ask me how I know )
And put it in neutral or park... and it shifts out of 4x4 easier. Although my F250 will shift on the fly, I only did that to see if it would.

RockAuto or LMC Truck... a lot of truck parts are interchangeable with Excursions. That Dome light cover you were missing I think LMC has in catalog.

If coolant isn't under pressure, they may have been hiding intake manifold leak, which is common on the 5.4.... maybe the V10 too? It's plastic and leaks at gaskets in front & rear, mine showed up when I changed plugs... water in the hole when I pulled boot, which was causing my misfire I think.

Take it one step at a time... My spouse fusses about the parts bills... but now I just say, 'Want me to go buy a new one for $75G's ? "

 

Thanks for the information. The 4wd does engage, I tested it before purchasing in the lot and it definitely engaged in the lot. Will take it some time on some roads here that are still slushy and test again.

Good to know about the interior parts. That is something my wife definitely wants addressed. She is very good about keeping things fixed/replaced. Pick a part type places aren't too common around here, so we will be hunting aftermarket suppliers, eBay, etc.

I don't think they were trying to hide anything, not intentionally anyways. Didn't seem like that kind of people. They weren't mechanically inclined and may not of been aware of issues or understood the significance of them. Anyways, hopefully there are no manifold leaks. I'll be sure to keep it in mind when I start working on it though and keep an eye out.

Fortunately my wife is all about saving money and doing what we can ourselves. And we have a budget that we reluctantly must follow lol.